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Old 05-22-2018, 11:49 AM   #1
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Fuse fries when inserted

Hi guys,
OK I got a 20 amp fuse that sparks and blows as soon as you stick it in there.

The fuse is in the back bedroom closet 12v dc circuits panel. #8.

It powers
Living room ceiling lights
TV boost
entry step lights
grab handle lights
map lights
porch lights

I am clueless about electrical issues but what the heck is going on? thanks guys. I am still working on the oven, Ill be posting the fix in a week or two.
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Old 05-22-2018, 11:55 AM   #2
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You have a dead short somewhere.

Make sure everything is turned off on that circuit.

If it still blows the start checking switches.
I had a light switch that melted together and shorted out once.

If all is turned off and the fuse stays good, then turn on 1 thing at a time until it blows. Then you know which item is causing the short.
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Old 05-22-2018, 12:09 PM   #3
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If you worked on any of the listed items recently, that's the place to look. Bulb in wrong, wrong bulbs, wires pinched under mounting screw.

Any work where you could have drove a screw thru a wire ?
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Old 05-22-2018, 05:42 PM   #4
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THe first thing I'd do is the TV boost. If it's a wall plate remove it and remove the POSITIVE wire and insulate it. if the fuse still blows re-connect and cross it off the list.

IF the fuse DOES NOT Blow inspect the ANT cable. looking at teh back of the wall plate with the 12 volt wires at the top it is the one on the left.

Most likely location of issue is the connector hidden in the ROOF. #2 is the antenna end and #3 is the coax between those two points.
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Old 05-23-2018, 04:28 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1CoolZ71 View Post
You have a dead short somewhere.

Make sure everything is turned off on that circuit.

If it still blows the start checking switches.
I had a light switch that melted together and shorted out once.

If all is turned off and the fuse stays good, then turn on 1 thing at a time until it blows. Then you know which item is causing the short.
I agree, try to isolate each segment of the circuit to narrow down the troubleshooting.

twinboat also brings up some really good points about looking at any items that have been recently worked on.

Good luck and let us know what you eventually find as the problem.
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Old 05-23-2018, 02:15 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by wa8yxm View Post
THe first thing I'd do is the TV boost. If it's a wall plate remove it and remove the POSITIVE wire and insulate it. if the fuse still blows re-connect and cross it off the list.

IF the fuse DOES NOT Blow inspect the ANT cable. looking at teh back of the wall plate with the 12 volt wires at the top it is the one on the left.

Most likely location of issue is the connector hidden in the ROOF. #2 is the antenna end and #3 is the coax between those two points.
Wow you guys are just unbelievable. How can I ever thank you. Im going over to the coach today.
I already have some ideas of where to look. Can someone tell me where the TV boost is located?
I still have the bose system installed, the avs switcher and the winegard box. I don't have anything else up there at the moment. I did find some extra cables that were not in use when I bought the coach. Oregon tried to help me identify them however there was one ac plug we had no idea what it went to. I don't use a TV boost so I don't know what it is. i changed over to a HDTV in 2016 and everything worked ok.

thanks moira
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Old 05-23-2018, 04:31 PM   #7
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Instead of replacing fuses connect a couple of wires to a headlamp bulb and insert them into the fuse terminals . When you find the short , the headlamp will go out .Everything on the circuit has to be off for this procedure to work properly.
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Old 05-23-2018, 05:56 PM   #8
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Well it appears the label on the dc panel is wrong.

My map lights are still working. And the antenna/aux gain switch works too although I don't know if that is the TV boost or not.

I looked in 3 manuals and can't find the location of the TV boost so I don't know if it is off or if it has a switch or not.

So I called Oregon and asked them to send me a schematic of that dc panel in the closet. something is still hot and I can't be sure if its the tv boost or not cause I don't know where it is.

Thanks guys.
moira
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Old 05-24-2018, 08:35 PM   #9
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ok here is an update. I have all the switches off. And if the TV boost is the same thing as the antenna gain wall plate, its off too.

fuses are still blowing.

Looks like we can't get ahold of Jason or Frank in Oregon anymore, so we have to talk with the people in IN who say they don't know of anything before 2015.

I had Jason's email and he sent me the schematic. not sure why the antenna gain is still working. So now I guess I need to start checking switches and bulbs.

I have been trying to post a pic of the schematic for over an hour now. I give up. its in photo bucket.
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Old 05-25-2018, 08:56 PM   #10
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Ok here is the big update for today.

I received the #8 fuse schematic from Monaco but I don't know how to post a pic so I'll just tell you whats on it.

The schematic list for #8 fuse is:
Liv room lights on the slide out with dimmer switch
Liv room wall lights (sconces)
TV Booster
D/s and p/s map lights ("not switch if map light on armrest")
Entry step rope lights
Grab Handle lights
Porch lights

The panel label lists these for #8 fuse
Liv room ceiling lights
TV Boost
entry step lights
grab handle lights
map lights
porch lights

So the big challenge here was to figure out what is a TV Boost. After reading for 3 nights and searching the entire coach for a panel with a green light, I surmised that it must be the white wall panel above the d/s that has an antenna gain knob on it, a push button ant/aux and a red light.

First I made sure all the switches to the appliances were off and the power to the TV boost was off. And the #8 fuse still blew.

Then today I physically disconnected all the switches from the appliances except for the map lights (they are working now with no fuse in #8) and the Living room wall lights. The wall lights have push buttons and they are also working now with no fuse in #8.
I also disconnected the power and the antenna coax from the TV booster.

My living room lights on the dimmer switch above the couches on the slide out work but the ceiling lights do not. So I disconnected the Living room ceiling lights like the fuse panel label shows.

the #8 fuse blew again.

So I guess I am down to a direct short in one of the wires that is connected to the #8 fuse or the #8 fuse holder is bad itself.

What do you think? Am I doing this right?
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Old 05-26-2018, 03:30 AM   #11
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If one of your affected lights is in a slide, look under it for a pinched or crushed wire in the slide tracks. There has to be a flexible wire somewhere under there.
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Old 05-26-2018, 08:42 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Moira View Post
Ok here is the big update for today.

I received the #8 fuse schematic from Monaco but I don't know how to post a pic so I'll just tell you whats on it.

The schematic list for #8 fuse is:
Liv room lights on the slide out with dimmer switch
Liv room wall lights (sconces)
TV Booster
D/s and p/s map lights ("not switch if map light on armrest")
Entry step rope lights
Grab Handle lights
Porch lights

The panel label lists these for #8 fuse
Liv room ceiling lights
TV Boost
entry step lights
grab handle lights
map lights
porch lights

So the big challenge here was to figure out what is a TV Boost. After reading for 3 nights and searching the entire coach for a panel with a green light, I surmised that it must be the white wall panel above the d/s that has an antenna gain knob on it, a push button ant/aux and a red light.

First I made sure all the switches to the appliances were off and the power to the TV boost was off. And the #8 fuse still blew.

Then today I physically disconnected all the switches from the appliances except for the map lights (they are working now with no fuse in #8) and the Living room wall lights. The wall lights have push buttons and they are also working now with no fuse in #8.
I also disconnected the power and the antenna coax from the TV booster.

My living room lights on the dimmer switch above the couches on the slide out work but the ceiling lights do not. So I disconnected the Living room ceiling lights like the fuse panel label shows.

the #8 fuse blew again.

So I guess I am down to a direct short in one of the wires that is connected to the #8 fuse or the #8 fuse holder is bad itself.

What do you think? Am I doing this right?
I just started reading this thread. Twinboats might be on to something. A few years ago, I pulled my fridge out because I was chasing a water leak. A huge wire bundle was run next to the fridge up into the ceiling. Didn't pay much attention to it.

When we started to push the fridge back into the cabinet, the slide mysteriously started to extend out. Surprised, we let the fridge lean forward a little and the slide stopped moving. Pushed on the fridge again, and slide started to move again. Pulled the fridge out completely and inspected the wire bundle. Over the years of jiggling down the road, the fridge had rubbed the insulation off a couple wires causing the short. It never did pop a fuse, but I think it could have if left long enough.

Check any pinch points you may have. It's a long shot, but might be worth a try.
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Old 05-26-2018, 08:50 AM   #13
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Thats a great idea, i am assuming i have a short in a wire now so thats the first one i should check,

The porch lights,

The living room lights on the dimmer work fine,

it has to wait til tuesday cause my coach is in a storage yard that is locked on the weekends,
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Old 05-30-2018, 10:07 AM   #14
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Well I checked the wires going from the slide to the coach as best I could. I didn't see any fraying or damage.

My wires are traveling inside the coach, not along the outside in the slide tracks but I'll check again.

Today Im going to check the resistance of the fuse holder, to make sure it is ok.

thanks guys
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