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Old 08-24-2016, 04:34 PM   #29
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This lectrixitee is humbling !

but pulling of the steering column cover was easy once explained thanks for the hand holding --- from the looks of the tilt pin and wires there it looks ok,
I cry uncle - called cummins and going to bring it in...

but one more question... why three disconnect switches ?
one inside must be for the interior and two outside, why two what do they control ?
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Old 08-24-2016, 08:14 PM   #30
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John, it seems that Camp's ignition switch is on the steering column, whereas yours is on the dash. So, his VEC-1 ignition wire goes up the column past the pivot to his key switch and yours goes to your dash key switch. (Camp, correct me if your key switch is not on the steering column.) I know my coach is not the same as yours, but we both use the same printed circuit board in the rear and the ignition circuit is a basic circuit.

You might take the coach to an automotive electrical shop instead of Cummins. Cummins built the engine, not the coach, nor the wiring. A Cummins Coach Care shop would be better than the standard Cummins shop, but they are still learning as they go, on your dollar. Too bad you are not closer to me. I would give you a hand.

Check in your area for a well respected auto electrical shop. Then ask them if they would be willing to tackle it. Your call on who you want to take it to. You do what is comfortable for you.

Take a printed copy of this thread for the technician to read, so he knows the culprit circuit starts at the gray plug-in connector at the rear next to the fuse and runs to the front of the coach to the ignition switch, directly. That is what my wiring schematic shows, albeit a different model, but a basic circuit. And, it is usually a stand alone circuit, meaning that nothing else is connected to that wire between the fuse and the ignition switch.

I have a feeling that someone connected to that wire behind the instrument cluster, or else the wire is chafing on metal between the two points. Doing the wiggle test with the above mentioned light bulb tester could aid in finding a chafing wire, after verifying nothing has been attached to that wire behind the dash, or where it goes through the front run bay.

I hope you have a quick and simple solution to this pain in the butt.


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Old 08-24-2016, 08:50 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Happycarz View Post
John, it seems that Camp's ignition switch is on the steering column, whereas yours is on the dash. So, his VEC-1 ignition wire goes up the column past the pivot to his key switch and yours goes to your dash key switch. (Camp, correct me if your key switch is not on the steering column.) I know my coach is not the same as yours, but we both use the same printed circuit board in the rear and the ignition circuit is a basic circuit.

You might take the coach to an automotive electrical shop instead of Cummins. Cummins built the engine, not the coach, nor the wiring. A Cummins Coach Care shop would be better than the standard Cummins shop, but they are still learning as they go, on your dollar. Too bad you are not closer to me. I would give you a hand.

Check in your area for a well respected auto electrical shop. Then ask them if they would be willing to tackle it. Your call on who you want to take it to. You do what is comfortable for you.

Take a printed copy of this thread for the technician to read, so he knows the culprit circuit starts at the gray plug-in connector at the rear next to the fuse and runs to the front of the coach to the ignition switch, directly. That is what my wiring schematic shows, albeit a different model, but a basic circuit. And, it is usually a stand alone circuit, meaning that nothing else is connected to that wire between the fuse and the ignition switch.

I have a feeling that someone connected to that wire behind the instrument cluster, or else the wire is chafing on metal between the two points. Doing the wiggle test with the above mentioned light bulb tester could aid in finding a chafing wire, after verifying nothing has been attached to that wire behind the dash, or where it goes through the front run bay.

I hope you have a quick and simple solution to this pain in the butt.


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I would like to see the load on that circuit with an amp probe with everything on ..... it would be telling as to what direction to head in. Such as stated above of the possibility that someone has added something to the circuit.

A good tech with an amp probe and a wiring schematic could most likely narrow this down and fairly quick. Having the correct wiring diagram will be the key IMO to getting a good auto tech to take on this task.

As suggested I would nose around and find out who the local automotive letric guru guy is and have a chat with him and offer to pay him dearly to take a look.

Talk to the counter guys at your local parts suppliers such as NAPA Auto Value and the likes to find out who the quality auto-letric guys are.


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Old 08-25-2016, 12:41 AM   #32
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Rob, the circuit breaker is getting hot with the key off, unloaded. That is part that doesn't make sense, unless someone tapped into the circuit, or a chaffed VEC-1 wire.

That's a great idea utilizing the local parts houses for a source to find an electrical shop.


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Old 08-25-2016, 03:40 AM   #33
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Monaco TS is very knowledgeable and FREE. They helped me understand this circuit a lot better
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Old 08-25-2016, 10:08 AM   #34
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Once again, thanks to all for the help...
Called Monaco and they sent me some simple circuit and PCB layouts
let's see if I can attach !

seems pretty straightforward, just wish I could twist around enough to trace it
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File Type: pdf 03215174A (V PCB DECAL ISL.pdf (47.7 KB, 31 views)
File Type: pdf 27000223 (ENGINE IGN ISL).pdf (88.8 KB, 35 views)
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Old 08-25-2016, 04:31 PM   #35
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Been following this thread and I have come to the conclusion that
if it was my coach I would abandon the old wire and run a new wire .
You may spend a lot of money for someone to try to find the short
and never be comfortable is really fixed when a new wire can be run
in about an hour or so .
What if you or some tech pulls around on the harness and the short
goes away you pay them $ 1000 then later down the road it happens
again .
I wouldn't want that thought / fear with me all the time .
JMHO

Ray
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Old 08-26-2016, 12:00 AM   #36
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John, the first PDF you received from Monaco is the same one, down to the part number of the decal, that was in post #10.

The second PDF traces the VEC-1 circuit through the fuse, then the gray VEC connector at terminal 1, and then directly to the battery terminal of the ignition switch. Nothing is connected to that wire between those two points. Again, someone might have attached something to that wire.

Try something: Leave it plugged in, but turn off both disconnects for the batteries. See if it cools down, which it should. This is just to let you know that shore power has nothing to do with your situation.

Do you have an access panel on top of your dash to let you look into the myriad of wires and gizmos?

Please take a picture of your front run bay and post it? While there, look up to see if you have bundles of white wires running along the top of that bay. The VEC-1 wire runs from the gray connector at the rear along the frame, then to the front run bay, up through the floor at the left console, behind the dash to the ignition switch. At least it does with mine and many other Monaco models. This wire will be in a bundle with many other wires.

A few more steps and we should be close to figuring this out. Please do the above and let us know.


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Old 08-29-2016, 04:21 AM   #37
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Apologies for not getting back any sooner... been a BUSY couple of days...
The kids put a bid on a new house with a contingency of selling theirs...
well, it sold house in 9 days !!! so, of course, "can you come help?" call came in... Even with movers there were days of work - how can you go from 3200 feet to 4900 feet and not have enough storage space ?!?!

will try and get more info this week on the rv... thanks for all the help thus far.
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