Generator problems Help !!

[RobRoy]

Originally Posted by bigjon42

O.K. Let the arguing begin. Arguably one of the best Monaco repair shops in the nation recommends: Wire nuts, wrapped in tape to prevent loosening, in metal junction boxes. Seal up the roof however you like, inspect annually or not. I trust them. Jon.

I understand your apprehension to share for the sake of an argument.

That said, Im not surprised at how they will repair it, that's the way most coaches I've seen are wired from the get go from the factory....lots of wire nuts on 120vac wiring connections.

Good for you and thanks for sharing

Your Happy....... Im Happy for you.

Happy Trails

[Kurt Averill]

I've seen a few failures (with the potential to cause a fire had they not been in an enclosure) at various connections, all of which were in pretty low speed buildings.... some involved wire nuts, more with stranded wire than solid. If I was doing it myself - I'd be more comfortable doing it shootist's way. However... If I had to have someone else do it - I'd have to live with the way they were comfortable doing it. I sure hate to see you end up with a J-box or an access panel or hatch in the roof; I think water infiltration is one of the most destructive issues in older RV's. I'd look closely at the roof / ceiling construction to see if it is possible to install an access hatch in the ceiling, and install the box it so it is accessible from below - so the roof could be patched without any joints or gaskets or whatever that could leak.

[RobRoy]

Originally Posted by Kurt Averill

I've seen a few failures (with the potential to cause a fire had they not been in an enclosure) at various connections, all of which were in pretty low speed buildings.... some involved wire nuts, more with stranded wire than solid. If I was doing it myself - I'd be more comfortable doing it shootist's way. However... If I had to have someone else do it - I'd have to live with the way they were comfortable doing it. I sure hate to see you end up with a J-box or an access panel or hatch in the roof; I think water infiltration is one of the most destructive issues in older RV's. I'd look closely at the roof / ceiling construction to see if it is possible to install an access hatch in the ceiling, and install the box it so it is accessible from below - so the roof could be patched without any joints or gaskets or whatever that could leak.

^^^^ ^^^^

Food for thought.


Offer to pay them a service charge for the advice and move along....why wait a month?

Perhaps to finish it off ...close that hole back up with the original piece that was cut out ...and seal up the seams with the proper sealer, then cover it with something aesthetically pleasing and multi-purposed for looks and a second weather-tight seal, perhaps something from the marine world such as a white flush mount watertight Deck Hatch with O-ringed watertight sealed closure.

With the original hole sealed up properly then that covered with a watertight deck hatch there is no chance of water intrusion IMO and it would also give you access in the future if necessary.

If done correctly, no one would ever know that it wasn't a factory install ....except the OP

Happy Trails

[HORNETD]

Originally Posted by shootist

Read the link and you'll know.

Which link are you referring to. If it is the one on Morris connectors then I don't know how you think that applies to my question.

[JPeterson]

Before using wire nuts, google resin splice. Much better - permanent and nothing to come loose or ever need checking. It's what I'd do if I wanted to fix it and forget it. They come in many styles - such as inline or Y. I've used them many times and never seen or heard of a problem. The smaller sizes (like you want) are available and reasonably priced. Not hard to do.

[bigjon42]

RobRoy, I am letting them do for multiple reasons. One, I cannot get up on the roof and do it myself, local electricians won't touch it because 'it's an RV', and I need some other things done while I am at Elite RV. Also, all electricians I talked to much prefer 'wire nuts' to any butt connectors. Much better wire to wire contact they say, and wire nuts are code in many states. I have looked into all of the butt connectors, epoxy and otherwise, and I feel this is the best avenue for me. I assure all you doubters out there that it will be done carefully and safely. Finally, as some have said, it's my nickel and I have to live with it.
Once again, thanks for all the observations and advise. Jon..

[RobRoy]

Originally Posted by shootist

How can you wire nut a short wire? They are going to have to add a piece? Go to an electric supply and look at a morris connector. Fact, buy one and show it to them. They'll use it. Those things have saved so many head aches, man hours, wrists and backs in the trade when working with heavy wire. I ran 1500 feet of #4 to a pool, spa, generator recently and I would say it easily saved the home owner 3 to 4 hours labor. And the strain on my wrists was reduced by 80 percent over the old cable clamps.

Yahtzee!

What he gets from the RV repair center doing it is so-called peace of mind... it doesn't mean it's the very best way to do the repair .... thier are six ways from Sunday to make this repair. The RV repair center has only suggested the way that they would do it..and apparently has worked in the past for them.

As far as a box and access? ...all the repairs suggested could have a box installed and still have access in the future.

With using the connector that Shootist has shown and if installed as described it will never come loose ..... and yes I would bet my family's life on that.

The existing wiring in the coach has a better chance of failing by chaffing through from the way they route it from the factory......and that being minimal.

I like to hear and value everyone's opinions on the subject ,but think that this repair has been way overthought and the RV service professionals would probably agree if they read this thread.....they say wire nuts.... and fuggedaboutit!

Again the OP is comfy with the RV professionals suggestion and repair method and thats the important part

Happy Trails

[RobRoy]

Originally Posted by bigjon42

RobRoy, I am letting them do for multiple reasons. One, I cannot get up on the roof and do it myself, local electricians won't touch it because 'it's an RV', and I need some other things done while I am at Elite RV. Also, all electricians I talked to much prefer 'wire nuts' to any butt connectors. Much better wire to wire contact they say, and wire nuts are code in many states. I have looked into all of the butt connectors, epoxy and otherwise, and I feel this is the best avenue for me. I assure all you doubters out there that it will be done carefully and safely. Finally, as some have said, it's my nickel and I have to live with it.
Once again, thanks for all the observations and advise. Jon..

I want you SAFE!....and Happy! ...... thats what it's all about.


Happy Trails

[Solo_RV_Guy]

Originally Posted by bigjon42

RobRoy, I am letting them do for multiple reasons. One, I cannot get up on the roof and do it myself, local electricians won't touch it because 'it's an RV', and I need some other things done while I am at Elite RV. Also, all electricians I talked to much prefer 'wire nuts' to any butt connectors. Much better wire to wire contact they say, and wire nuts are code in many states. I have looked into all of the butt connectors, epoxy and otherwise, and I feel this is the best avenue for me. I assure all you doubters out there that it will be done carefully and safely. Finally, as some have said, it's my nickel and I have to live with it.
Once again, thanks for all the observations and advise. Jon..

The reason most electricians won't touch an RV is because the level of OEM work is below that of most 2nd week IBEW apprentices. They also are unfamiliar with how the work is done and get confused when it all looks very dicey when compared to properly done residential work.


Butt splices can be vapor-tight when the correct splice is specified and installed using the splice makers specified equipment and methods. The vast majority of residential electricians do not use such splices, don't have the training or tools to install them, and hence fall back on things they know how to do.


_Solo (a temporary event power technician and rigger)

[RobRoy]

Originally Posted by Solo_RV_Guy

The reason most electricians won't touch an RV is because the level of OEM work is below that of most 2nd week IBEW apprentices. They also are unfamiliar with how the work is done and get confused when it all looks very dicey when compared to properly done residential work.


Butt splices can be vapor-tight when the correct splice is specified and installed using the splice makers specified equipment and methods. The vast majority of residential electricians do not use such splices, don't have the training or tools to install them, and hence fall back on things they know how to do.


_Solo (a temporary event power technician and rigger)

Bingo!........ Ladies and Gerns we have us a winner!


As the saying goes...." When all you have is a hammer everything look like a nail"


I cringe at some of the wiring Ive seen in Coaches.

Happy Trails

[bigjon42]

I knew I should not have revealed my solution. So many 'experts' out there that know how to do it 'better'. We all do what works for us.
It has gone beyond advise to 'how come you didn't do it my way'. And just short of name calling. Sad.

[sdkgolf]

I had a similar problem and found out that I needed to have all the breakers on even though I was not using the electric water heater which I kept off. Sounds weird but it solved my problem. Good luck.

[mydogmax]

Mine did the same, I have an 8kw, replaced the fuel filter and that fixed it.