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Old 08-28-2019, 05:06 PM   #71
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Not related to genny .If you don't have 2- 50 legs to garage, doesn't mean you cant run 2 of 20 or 30 amps to a 50amp receptacle. Just protect to whatever lowest wire size its fed by in and out of breakers.
I just have 2 30amp feed , much better than 1 30 amp.
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Old 08-29-2019, 12:05 AM   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 153stars View Post
Not related to genny .If you don't have 2- 50 legs to garage, doesn't mean you cant run 2 of 20 or 30 amps to a 50amp receptacle. Just protect to whatever lowest wire size its fed by in and out of breakers.
I just have 2 30amp feed , much better than 1 30 amp.
The two 30 or 20 amp feeds would have to be out of phase in his scenario to cause a problem between l1 and l2.
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Old 08-29-2019, 09:03 AM   #73
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Its not 2- 50 amp legs, it 120/240 volt service.

Whether its 20, 30, 40 or 50 amp service, its called 120/240 volts service.

2 hots, 1 shared neutral and a ground. The breaker supplying it will be a 2 pole breaker.
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Originally Posted by 153stars View Post
Not related to genny .If you don't have 2- 50 legs to garage, doesn't mean you cant run 2 of 20 or 30 amps to a 50amp receptacle. Just protect to whatever lowest wire size its fed by in and out of breakers.
I just have 2 30amp feed , much better than 1 30 amp.
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Old 08-29-2019, 10:18 AM   #74
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Did you really mean 6/3 cord.

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Stormy you are on to something. One of my Nabors is a retired electrician, so I called him. He said talk to my son who is visiting and is an electrical engineer.
How did I get so lucky. He came over and tested all connections with a meter, ran some tests, determined that I have a direct short between my transfer switch and my main panel in the motorhome. I have ordered a 30 ft 50amp rv cord (6/3) and I am going to cut it and run a connection OUTSIDE the motorhome from the transfer switch thru the bedroom window to the main panel. Sounds scary, but the electricians son will help/supervise. At least the generator is O.K. !! If the test is successful, then the hard part will be running the cable from transfer switch, hidden, to the main panel in the bedroom. Underside of the coach is sealed, so I have no good idea on how I am going to do that. More later after the external test. As an aside, Cummins was and is convinced that it was NOT the generator. They were right. Bigjon.
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You wrote that you have ordered a 6/3 cord. The usual way that cord; but not cable; is marked and sold is to include all conductors that are in the cord. If it is a 6/3 cord Per Se it has only 3 conductors in it. That is fine for carrying 30 amperes of 120 volt power but it is not safe to run 120/240 volt power. The transfer switch may have either three or four poles for 240/120 single phase but the three pole would be far more common because it would cost the manufacturer less. With your system the forth wire serving as the Equipment Grounding Conductor (EGC) is needed to prevent a fault from energizing the metal parts of the RV. With an EGC that fault would cause enough current to flow through the breaker in the pedestal to trip it at once. Without an EGC the touch potential; the voltage between say the door knob and the earth; could be high enough to give you or yours a nasty shock. If both the panel and the transfer switch enclosure are bonded to the frame that would provide a kind of EGC. The problem with that pathway is since it does not necessarily run in close parallel with the circuit conductors it may have a high enough impedance to delay the opening of the Over-Current Protective Device (Circuit Breaker) to keep the fault to the shortest time possible. In the case of an arcing fault limiting the time it continues does much to prevent ignition of adjacent combustible materials.
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Old 08-29-2019, 11:00 AM   #75
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Bigjon


You wrote that you have ordered a 6/3 cord. The usual way that cord; but not cable; is marked and sold is to include all conductors that are in the cord. If it is a 6/3 cord Per Se it has only 3 conductors in it. That is fine for carrying 30 amperes of 120 volt power but it is not safe to run 120/240 volt power. The transfer switch may have either three or four poles for 240/120 single phase but the three pole would be far more common because it would cost the manufacturer less. With your system the forth wire serving as the Equipment Grounding Conductor (EGC) is needed to prevent a fault from energizing the metal parts of the RV. With an EGC that fault would cause enough current to flow through the breaker in the pedestal to trip it at once. Without an EGC the touch potential; the voltage between say the door knob and the earth; could be high enough to give you or yours a nasty shock. If both the panel and the transfer switch enclosure are bonded to the frame that would provide a kind of EGC. The problem with that pathway is since it does not necessarily run in close parallel with the circuit conductors it may have a high enough impedance to delay the opening of the Over-Current Protective Device (Circuit Breaker) to keep the fault to the shortest time possible. In the case of an arcing fault limiting the time it continues does much to prevent ignition of adjacent combustible materials.
6/3 is the way they call them, usually 6/3 +8 ground .
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Old 08-29-2019, 01:44 PM   #76
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Shootist, you are right. It is a 6/3 with a ground wire also. What I ordered is a 30ft 50amp RV extension cord. I has connectors on each end, which I am going to cut off. Then strip back the wires (carefully) and connect one end to the transfer switch and run the cord externally, thru the motorhome bedroom window to the main in-house breaker panel. This will test whether all else is O.K., shore and generator. If this test out O.K., I will then be faced with how and where I can run this line internal and permanent. The original line disappears into the bowels of the compartment and reappears out of the wall in the bedroom overhead cabinet. Built in when Motorhome was manufactured, never meant to be replaced. Im my 40 years of motorhoming, I have never heard of this happening. Big Jon
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Old 08-29-2019, 03:28 PM   #77
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Talked to REV (new Monaco) tech and he says the shorts DO happen. He suggest finding a RV shop that can run new line. I know there are good Tech shops near Coburg, OR. Anyone suggest a good shop in Oregon ??
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Old 08-30-2019, 09:15 AM   #78
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6/3 is the way they call them, usually 6/3 +8 ground .
That is beyond my experience in over 55 years in the electrical craft. The labeling which you are referring to is universally true for cable but not for flexible cord that is intended to withstand repeated bending and flexing, rolled out and rolled up over and over, and subject to a certain amount of abuse. Go look at any extension cord you own and see if the labeling lists the ground conductor separately. If it does please post a photograph because I've never seen a cord marked as you suggest.
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Old 08-30-2019, 03:50 PM   #79
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Talked to REV (new Monaco) tech and he says the shorts DO happen. He suggest finding a RV shop that can run new line. I know there are good Tech shops near Coburg, OR. Anyone suggest a good shop in Oregon ??
Big Jon
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Old 08-30-2019, 10:20 PM   #80
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That is beyond my experience in over 55 years in the electrical craft. The labeling which you are referring to is universally true for cable but not for flexible cord that is intended to withstand repeated bending and flexing, rolled out and rolled up over and over, and subject to a certain amount of abuse. Go look at any extension cord you own and see if the labeling lists the ground conductor separately. If it does please post a photograph because I've never seen a cord marked as you suggest.
just do a search to buy a 50 amp rv cord. You dont have to go check anything.
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Old 09-03-2019, 12:47 PM   #81
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Unhappy

Well, I solved the problem. Not sure how I am going to fix it. Had a nice conversation with Elite RV in Harrisburg, Oregon this morning. EX Monaco guys, GREAT reputation. It seems that Monaco ran the power line foreward from the transfer switch, then up thru the pantry to a channel in the center of the roof, then back to the bedroom. I had just recently added two solar panels on the roof, and apparently ran a mounting screw thru the cable. Not sure how I am going to fix the problem, but have an appointment with elite on Nov.4th(soonest opening). Elite folks said they had never heard of this happening before. Just my luck. Bigjon
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Old 09-03-2019, 01:21 PM   #82
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Glad you got it figured out. Good luck with the repair. Have you been able to identify the offending screw? May have melted roofing around it...
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Old 09-03-2019, 01:32 PM   #83
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Havent looked yet. Jon.
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Old 09-03-2019, 01:33 PM   #84
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Through the roof

Hello Congratulations on finding the issue and also in the process finding some good people heck great people who worked with your to diagnose the issue better than the old assemblers of the pile.


Hope the fix is painless and can be done by fishing a new wire or some such without having to do a massive invasive surgery.


Check out walabot its an awesome tool.
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