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Old 03-29-2010, 11:26 AM   #1
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Smile GFI, Icemaker problem/Fix

Sometimes I get lucky when I fix things and save myself a ton of money. Thought I'd pass this one on. It may be well known but maybe not.

Had a GFI switch problem. It would trip every other day or so. Did the usual. Checked every outlet and even replaced the GFI switch. No luck. Was almost ready to call for an electrician. Then I remembered the external plug in on my 2003 Monaco Dipl. The icemaker was also on the GFI circuit. Unplugged it. GFI problem solved but now an ice maker problem.

Here's the good news, for me anyway. Removed the old icemaker and took it to Home Depot. Guy laughed and gave me a paper and address for a replacement place and said it would be about $350.00.

Went to Lowes. Whirlpool icemaker. Exact fit. $49.95 plus tax. Installed in about 30 minutes.

I have the standard Norcold 1200 . Figures that they didn't re invent the wheel when it comes to icemakers.

Just figured someone else might have same problem.

So here's the commercial

GFI switch: $12.95
New ice maker: $49.95
Not paying for an electrician: Priceless
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Old 03-29-2010, 11:57 AM   #2
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Good catch and diagnosis. It's probably the only thing on a Norcold that is reasonably priced.

I still think if someone would make a GOOD RV refrigerator and back it with friendly service they would put Dometic and Norcold out of business.
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Old 03-29-2010, 04:17 PM   #3
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I wonder if a Whirlpool icemaker water supply solenoid would work as a replacement? Mine froze and now overlflows the ice maker when I try to use it.
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Old 03-30-2010, 05:23 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by -Gramps- View Post
I wonder if a Whirlpool icemaker water supply solenoid would work as a replacement? Mine froze and now overlflows the ice maker when I try to use it.
It is just a standard appliance water supply solenoid. Take it out and go to a place that sells appliance replacement parts. They should be able to match it.

Bob
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Old 03-30-2010, 05:35 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diplomat Don View Post
Good catch and diagnosis. It's probably the only thing on a Norcold that is reasonably priced.

I still think if someone would make a GOOD RV refrigerator and back it with friendly service they would put Dometic and Norcold out of business.
Don,

Modern residential refrigerators are very efficient and draw about the same power during the compressor cycle as the 120 volt cycle on a RV absorption type refrigerator. When it comes to reliability, the residential refrigerator is light years ahead. More and more RV's are coming with residential refigerators and a true sine wave inverter from the factory. Folks are taking out their failed, fire hazard absoption refrigerators quite often now and replacing them with residential units. Dometic and Norcold better get their act together or they are going to loose a big share of the market. I bet Norcold is feeling the bite from all the burned up RV's caused by their failed cooling units.

Bob
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Old 11-27-2010, 07:53 PM   #6
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I know it has been quite a while since you posted this, but I'm hoping you still check in now and then, and can answer a few questions for me.

I bought the icemaker from Lowes and have it installed, but still doesn't work. I did the power point checks recommended by Norcold, and it shows I have no power to icemaker. I thought I could just pull the old wiring out and replace it, but not so simple. Looks like I would have to pull the fridge out to get to it. Any suggestions?
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Old 11-28-2010, 05:52 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by royce999 View Post
I know it has been quite a while since you posted this, but I'm hoping you still check in now and then, and can answer a few questions for me.

I bought the icemaker from Lowes and have it installed, but still doesn't work. I did the power point checks recommended by Norcold, and it shows I have no power to icemaker. I thought I could just pull the old wiring out and replace it, but not so simple. Looks like I would have to pull the fridge out to get to it. Any suggestions?
The ice maker usually plugs into a different 110 VAC outlet than the frig. That outlet should be labeled "Inverter". This is done so the ice maker will work when the frig is on LP. The inverter must past the shore power 110VAC through to that outlet when you are plugged into shore power. I would make sure that 110 VAC is at that outlet and that something is not wrong with the inverter pass through. You could move the plug for the ice maker to the standard 110 VAC outlet that the frig is plugged into as a check. If the ice maker works on that outlet then start checking out your inverter.

Bob
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Old 11-28-2010, 06:08 AM   #8
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My icemaker wiring diagram shows a thermal fuse in the hot (black) wire from the plug to the icemaker. I don't have a clue where this thermal fuse is though.
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Old 11-29-2010, 02:56 PM   #9
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Richard,
I'm pretty sure the thermal fuse is in the black wire behind the icemaker. It looks like about a 1 1/2 inch bulge in the black wire with heat shrink over it.
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Old 11-29-2010, 03:28 PM   #10
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royce999 is correct i worked for 30+yrs on those i/m in house refers i do not rember seeing that fuze bad ever. i would check the power to the cabnet for the i/m lee
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Old 12-04-2010, 01:11 PM   #11
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Just a follow-up on the thermal fuse problem. My ice maker wasn't working so I replaced it with the Lowes $49.95 one, but the wiring harness on the new one was too short. I found somewhere on line that I would have to get to the back of the fridge, pull it out, and replace the long wiring harness. Not something I wanted to tackle.

Obviously, the probes wires on my multi-tester weren't long enough to test from the inside of the fridge to the outside of the motorhome, so I got a piece of wire about 12 ft long, attached an alligator clip to one end, clipped it to each of the 4 ice maker wires (1 at a time, of course), then used the other end of the wire thru the window and into the fridge to test the other end of the plug for that particular wire. I narrowed it down to the thermal fuse wire (on my rig, the black wire with the "bulge" behind the ice maker. I cut the wire behind the thermal fuse, tested the continuity to the other end of the black wire, and it was ok. Then I spliced the thermal fuse from the new Lowes kit where the bad fuse had been, hooked everything up, waited until the next day, and I HAD ICE!!!
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Old 01-10-2011, 06:56 AM   #12
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Did you replace the thermo fuse or omit it. Where was the thermo fuse? Is this only for the ice maker.
Thanks Bill
2000 american eagle with no ice.
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Old 01-11-2011, 08:28 PM   #13
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Did you replace the thermo fuse or omit it. Where was the thermo fuse? Is this only for the ice maker.
Thanks Bill
2000 american eagle with no ice.

Bill

As I stated in my previous post, I did replace the thermal fuse (about 1 1/2 inch black bulge in the black wire behind the ice maker- part of the wiring harness). My understanding of the purpose of the thermal fuse is that the ice freezes to the tray, and the tray has to be warmed slightly to break the ice free in order for it to dump).

The wiring is behind the ice maker - only a few screws to pull the ice maker free, and you will see it.

good luck.

rswhandy
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Old 01-12-2011, 07:46 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by -Gramps- View Post
I wonder if a Whirlpool icemaker water supply solenoid would work as a replacement? Mine froze and now overlflows the ice maker when I try to use it.
There are, as I recall, only 4 solenoids,, I will describe them, it's a 2x2 grid

Single stage/Double stage
1/4 inch inlet/3/4" garden hose inlet

There are also several different mounting brackets

The single stage, if you do not use a regulator in your water line and you are in a high pressure park, your ice maker overflows.. The double stage has a built in pressure regulator and thus makes same size ice no matter the water source. thus it's better.

The 3/4" inlet models come with an adapter in the box for th 1/4" compression hoses used on RV's so it does not matter if you get one of those.

That leaves the mounting brackets... Most of them come with several adapters and screws and there is enough room in the compartment to re-do the mounting if you have to.


New Dometic single stage valve from Camping World, over 120 dollars last time I preced it.

Amana dual stage valve delivered to my hand by UPS from an E-Bay store.. 27 bucks.
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