Great sub-forum here - I commend you on all the help you offer....

[JohnBoyToo]

Been searching and trying to glean it from youse guys,
but now it's my turn to ask a newbie question (or six )
(Should I break this up into separate posts/threads ?)

for the new to us 2011 Monaco 43dft in signature...

Where is the TV antenna booster ? can't find it

Blondie tripped the rear bath elec outlet's breaker during her 'process' - is it typical for a blow drier to do that ?

nice water hose reel, but is there a built-in water pressure regulator?
Have a nice adjustable one from my 5er, but two regulators on one line seems like it would slow the flow

for the sani-con:
can I insert a clear elbow or 45 on the large output tube to allow me to see when flushed?

Rear Camera is points straight down, see most of the rear of the coach and not what's behind me - easily adjusted?

Air dump button is a mystery item
when will it dump - only with key on and not running, pump brakes to release air and then hold down the button for how long???

Tag Axle button is another mystery item:
Assume the tag axle is supposed to release/raise the tag axle, but I've not seen it happen - guess I don't know the conditions it should work..


I can't get to the engine from the rear to see what it really is...
know it's a Cummins, Monaco paperwork and datacard says ISL425HP as in pic below, but Cummins emailed saying:
"... your ESN xxx shows up as an ISL CM2150, Engine was rated at 345 HP @ 1900 RPMs with 1150 FT LB of torque @ 2100 RPMs.
Your sweet spot is going to be around 2300 RPMs.
You can get access to your engine information if you register the engine on our engine information database. You would need to go to www.quickserve.cummins.com and create an account. This will prompt you to choose between 4 different memberships. The free service is called the Limited membership plan. This gives you engine information for up to 5 Cummins engines including generators. Once you are done with the registration form, you can click on the parts for the parts catalog, and the service tab to view the diagrams and any available manuals....
Thank you for contacting Cummins."
@ 1600 rpm we do about 65 mph, @ 1750rpm we do about 70mph,
so @ 2300 rpm would be > 85mph with the 6 speed tranny !!!
not sure who is 'correct' - I mean the engine purrs, but would be nice to know what we have

Thanks in advance and hope to help others in the future when I learn this new thing!

[deSanford]

www.quickserve.cummins.com Can you help me with a better better place to go to? Sanford PS your antenna amp. is located on the wall of your entertainment equipment cabinet.

[jacwjames]

Different coach but here is what I can answer on

Usually the antenna booster/amplifier is located within the module that the antenna from the roof attaches to. In my case it is in the overhead cabinet above the passenger seat. This is also where the selector switches are to choose from Antenna, Cable, VCR for the front and rear TV's

There may be additional loads on the breaker causing it to trip. Ours does fine, we even run a small ceramic heater from it when it's cold. If it continues you may check the breaker.

Yes on the Clear Elbow if you have room.

You will have to take the cover plate off the rear camera, mine is adjustable in that it can be tilted up or down. I have a clear view all the way past the jeep that I tow.

I do not have automatic air leveling, manual jacks. My air dumps when I start putting the jacks down with key in Aux position. I can also use the air dump switch to make it faster. Doing this only dumps airbags but not the air tanks. I do not push the brake pedal since that depletes air in the tanks.

[Dakrism]

JohnBoyToo
My ant booster is located on the wall of the compartment right above the driver seat.Yours should be somewhere close to that.

Your wifes hair dryer is YOUR enemy. I hate that thing!! Just tell her to make sure she turns everything else off first like the coffee maker,extra lights,etc. before turning on the hair dryer. My wife blew the breaker several times at first.

We do not have any built-in pressure regulator on our Beaver. I install one on the source outlet when I hook up.

The rear camera should be adjustable.I moved ours.

When I bought my Beaver I emailed Monaco the coach number which was on the outside of my unit and they sent me the original build sheet.

I do not have a tag axle and the Sani-con has been removed so I can't help there.

If I ever use the air dump it would be because I want to lower the entire coach and I just hold the button.I never mess with it I just push the auto level and use a stool to exit coach.

Dan

[JohnBoyToo]

Thanks for the responses !!! keep em coming.

deSanford, unfortunately our link fails - why the cummins guy sent it to me I dunno

but he included this in his email:
respond to our support staff by e-mailing powermaster@cummins.com or call Monday through Friday, 7 a.m. to 7 p.m. ET at 1-800-DIESELS (1-800-343-7357).

[deSanford]

Thank you JohnBoyToo.........with all the information on the antenna amp I'm sure you found it. Sanford

[96 Wideglide]

"Sweet spot @ 2300RPM'S" . Gota be a mis-print!

[JohnBoyToo]

Actually went back to him and

"The information I gave you is just for the engine. The information you stated is based on gear ratio, transmission, etc that the chassis builder chooses to put into the application. We just sell them the engine, so we don’t know what application it goes into or what OEM parts are added to the engine. That is probably why there is mixed information."

Huh ?!? LoL

[ShapeShifter]

Our coaches are different years, but the Endeavor is mechanically identical to the Diplomat, so we are probably more alike than different...

Originally Posted by JohnBoyToo

Where is the TV antenna booster ? can't find it

The booster is built into the TV batwing antenna, you won't find it unless you take the antenna apart. I assume you are actually asking where is the control for it?

Above the driver seat, do you have switch box with many buttons that allows sending various sources to the different TVs? If so, there is probably a button on the very far left, labeled "Ant Pwr" or something like that. There is probably a little LED next to it. This button controls the power to the booster, the LED will be on when the booster is on.

Blondie tripped the rear bath elec outlet's breaker during her 'process' - is it typical for a blow drier to do that ?

Not if it's the only load. But very often, almost all of the outlets in the coach are on one circuit. If you have other heavy loads plugged in (or a lot of small loads) then running the hair dryer can trip the breaker.

I did some investigations on my coach. On mine the outlets in the bedroom slide by the head of the bed are on their own circuit (not going through the inverter) while all other inside outlets are on one circuit going through the inverter. If I need to run two heavy loads, like an electric heater and a hair dryer, I make sure one of them is plugged into one of the bedroom outlets that are on a different circuit. Yours is likely similar that most outlets are on one circuit, and you probably have two or three on a different circuit, but they may be different outlets than mine. Now that you know the breaker that was tripped, turn it off, and see which few outlets still have power - these are the ones that are on a different circuit.

nice water hose reel, but is there a built-in water pressure regulator?

I don't have a reel, but all of the factory pictures I've seen show a small brass in-line regulator screwed onto the end of the hose. (See item #1 in pic below) If you have one of these, I would use your larger adjustable regulator instead. My coach only came with the in-line regulator screwed onto the city water inlet, which I promptly removed and replaced with a larger adjustable.

for the sani-con: can I insert a clear elbow or 45 on the large output tube to allow me to see when flushed?

Yes. Mine came with one, I'm surprised yours didn't. On mine, the flexible 3" rubber hose is clamped onto a straight clear plastic adapter, with about 2" of visible space. (You can kind of see it in the picture above.) It's not only helpful to determine flushing status, but also nice to see when the water level is running low (when dumping grey water, I start to see a lot of floating soap suds just before the tank runs dry.)

I don't know if you have room for an elbow with bayonet fittings on each end. I have a straight clear hose end adapter, they also come in 45 degree:

Rear Camera is points straight down, see most of the rear of the coach and not what's behind me - easily adjusted?

Do you have triangular up/down buttons on your rear view monitor? (Items 4 and 5 below.) From the dash, I can use the up/down buttons to change the camera angle from pointing straight down at the hitch, or up so I can see all the way to the horizon, or anywhere in between. Curiously, the buttons do not work when in reverse, I have to set the camera angle first while I'm in drive, and then put it in reverse.

Air dump button is a mystery item
when will it dump - only with key on and not running, pump brakes to release air and then hold down the button for how long???

The button only works when the key is on. It will work whether or not the engine is running, but if running the engine will build up air faster than you can dump it, so there isn't much point.

The valves dump air as long as you have the button held down. But the main air tanks will keep filling up the air bags as long as there is about 60 PSI or more in the tanks. So what you're really doing is draining the entire air system through the dump valves, and that takes time.

You can lightly pump the service brakes to get the pressure down to 50 PSI or so, and then the air dumping will be faster (since you aren't draining the whole system anymore.) An even faster way is to push down the parking brake switch about halfway, which will drain the air very quickly.

Once the tanks are down to about 50 PSI, holding down the air dump will take something like 30 to 45 seconds. The movement while going down is subtle, and often hard to feel. I keep the front door open with the steps extended. From the driver's seat, I sight along the edge of the step and look at the ground. Watching that, it's pretty easy to see that the coach is dropping. I hold the switch until I don't see the coach dropping anymore. You will also notice the sound of the escaping air getting less and less as the coach settles down. Sometimes, if the site isn't very level, I can feel the coach settle down on the chassis bump stops.

Tag Axle button is another mystery item:
Assume the tag axle is supposed to release/raise the tag axle, but I've not seen it happen - guess I don't know the conditions it should work..

Sorry, don't know anything there. But I hear that on some coaches, raising the tag just takes most of the weight off of the tag, and doesn't necessarily raise it up off the ground.

[JohnBoyToo]

WOW - thanks - that explains it - will check out the solutions this weekend...

whenever youse guys come down to the warm climes of TexUS,
I owe you all a libation!!!

Hmmm, haven't seen a switch box like that... maybe previous owner took out since he has input switchable tv's - will search...

and already got this for the sani-con- will see if it works!
In that neat 'watercloset' pic I see numbers - where did it come from and noticed the sani-con hose is pushed back into the slot ? first few times couldn't get mine to go in there... will have to see what's blocking it...

Zone Defense does have similar buttons ! will have to read the downloaded manual on it and play! darn - it's for brightness - no up and down angle... :( oh well

[ShapeShifter]

Sounds like there are quite a few differences over the recent years.

For the antenna booster, I would just follow the antenna cable from the TV, and see where it goes. If it hits a switchbox of some sort, look for a power cable or switch on it (the switchbox I show above has a 12V power input.) Keep following the antenna cable until it hits a bulkhead connector in a compartment. That connector may have a power switch on it (the power supply will be built into that cover plate) or it may just be a simple connector (in which case, you probably passed the external power supply without realizing it.) Or, it used to have a switchbox, and the previous owner removed it, not knowing that it also powers the antenna.

The swtichbox I show just switches the RF antenna signals. Where it's got buttons for DVD, VCR, Satellite, etc, those are RF coax inputs (standard definition channel 3/4/etc modulator) and not direct video signals (composite, component, HDMI, etc.) These days with the TVs and owners expecting HD signals, there may not be distribution box like that anymore: the antenna cable might just go through splitters to each TV, and the other sources are routed directly with higher quality signal connectors. My rig was right at the transition point: front TV is HD (flat LCD) and easy to route cables to, bedroom TV is strictly analog (glass tube) and outside TV is flat LCD HD, but only has SD RF cables run to it.

That elbow should work for your SaniCon, as long as you physically have the room for it. When you take off your existing connector, you're likely to see a wide flat rubber band on the old connector -- move this over to the new connector, it helps make a waterproof seal between the connector and hose. Remember, if you leave it connected all the time like I do, there will always be some water in that hose -- you want a perfect seal, even a very slow drip will make a mess over time.

I occasionally have trouble stuffing the SaniCon hose back into that little slot. Pulling it out all the way and then starting over usually helps. The other thing to keep in mind is that if you put the drip cap on the nozzle while the hose is stretched out, it will trap air in the hose and prevent it from contracting. That will make it longer than it needs to be and it won't all fit into the little slot. Before stuffing the hose in, I make sure it's loosely gathered on the ground near the wet bay, then slightly unscrew the drip cap to let the air out of the hose and let it contract as much as possible. Then it's easier to stuff in the slot.

The picture with the numbers came from the old Holiday Rambler site before the company went bankrupt back a few years ago (2009?) At that point, they had a site where you could look up part numbers, and the numbers in that picture corresponded to the parts list that was below the picture. The site is no longer available.

[TVforMyRV]

Originally Posted by 96 Wideglide

"Sweet spot @ 2300RPM'S" . Gota be a mis-print!

I agree. It's a typo.

1300 seems more like it. HP peak is usually at higher RPM (1900). The torque peak is much lower. Theoretically, best economy is at peak torque, so My bet would be that they meant to type 1300....

[JohnBoyToo]

Well, I'm sure he made SOME mistake,
but even when challenged on it he stuck by it...
therefore I put NO credence in what he said


just trying to learn this thing --- heck, I'm still looking for the DEF tank ?!? my last two deezle trucks had it... dunno if this has it !

[ShapeShifter]

Originally Posted by JohnBoyToo

heck, I'm still looking for the DEF tank ?!? my last two deezle trucks had it... dunno if this has it !

I'm going to guess you don't have one.

I just noticed your engine serial number in the attachment to your first post. Running that through QuickServe gives the attached engine dataplate information.

First and foremost, the dataplate says that it's an ISL 425, so the Cummins guy who said it was 345 horsepower is likely wrong, so I would also suspect his peak RPM values.

But what's most interesting is that it looks like the engine has two dataplates: the original one from 2009, and another where it was upfitted in 2011. Since the engine was originally built in 2009, before DEF was required, I would think that your engine would not use DEF, even though it also has a year 2011 designation?