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Old 03-10-2015, 07:29 PM   #1
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Half way home. Norcold out the door.

Removed the Not so cold yesterday. Started the day intending to get the castors to build my own refrig. dolly from Harbor Freight but instead purchased a nice one cheaper then the cost of the castors themselves.
Got home and found 8 2x4's in my wood supply already cut to the length I needed to put 4 on each side of the purchased dolly to fit just under the fridge as I slid it out. After disconnecting the gas, electrical and water line in the access hatch outside I had the fridge slid out on the dolly in a half hour.
Actually that was the least time consuming part. I spent the next hour and a half removing the cooling unit off the back of the fridge. Didn't really know how it came off but removed two bolts on the lower tube assembly, two on the upper fin assembly, cut a bunch of wires, took the icemaker water line, cut some duct tape off around all the edges and started pulling on the unit. It was the heaviest part of the fridge. Got great enjoyment cutting the wires and taking that out the door. After the cooling unit was removed the refrigerator box itself was only 20 inches wide and I wheeled it over to the door after removing the copilots seat and out it went.
I then went to work removing the floor that the old fridge sat on. Used a bottle jack. Thanks to Diplomat Don or Dr4Film for that idea. Made removing the floor pretty easy. Lots of staples and glue holding that floor in but the jack did a very good job of slowly prying it up.
Still not sure how to seal the upper vent opening because the ceiling rubber roof goes right up to the edge of the opening. Not sure how to fasten a board to that. I guess I will have to put some screw holes through that ceiling material but that and moving the electrical receptacles is all I need to do before Sat when the new fridge arrives. I'm waiting until I have it on hand to construct the new floor.
I have to say I'm very happy in how its gone so far. Kind of been dreading doing this but was really getting frustrated with the NotCold especially after this last trip.
Thanks to all that posted their experience doing there change out to a residential refrigerator. Made it a lot easier for me.
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Old 03-10-2015, 08:32 PM   #2
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Well, you are not really half way through, but I know the thrill of seeing the Norcold going out the door. And like you, I chose to take the back off the refer box which makes getting it out the door a piece of cake.

The person who inspired you was rnodine. He is the one that showed how to jack up the floor and do the removal. You should PM him if you have more questions as you move through the process.

Our Beaver presented unique situations that are not encountered in the standard Monacos, so I had to deviate from rnodine's examples in a number of ways. But, let me tell you, when the residential unit is installed and operating it is all worth the effort.

As you probably know, if you run into something that does not seem clear, there are a number of folks here who can guide you through the adventure. Do enjoy.
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Old 03-11-2015, 03:47 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Letsgoagain View Post
Removed the Not so cold yesterday. Started the day intending to get the castors to build my own refrig. dolly from Harbor Freight but instead purchased a nice one cheaper then the cost of the castors themselves.
Got home and found 8 2x4's in my wood supply already cut to the length I needed to put 4 on each side of the purchased dolly to fit just under the fridge as I slid it out. After disconnecting the gas, electrical and water line in the access hatch outside I had the fridge slid out on the dolly in a half hour.
Actually that was the least time consuming part. I spent the next hour and a half removing the cooling unit off the back of the fridge. Didn't really know how it came off but removed two bolts on the lower tube assembly, two on the upper fin assembly, cut a bunch of wires, took the icemaker water line, cut some duct tape off around all the edges and started pulling on the unit. It was the heaviest part of the fridge. Got great enjoyment cutting the wires and taking that out the door. After the cooling unit was removed the refrigerator box itself was only 20 inches wide and I wheeled it over to the door after removing the copilots seat and out it went.
I then went to work removing the floor that the old fridge sat on. Used a bottle jack. Thanks to Diplomat Don or Dr4Film for that idea. Made removing the floor pretty easy. Lots of staples and glue holding that floor in but the jack did a very good job of slowly prying it up.
Still not sure how to seal the upper vent opening because the ceiling rubber roof goes right up to the edge of the opening. Not sure how to fasten a board to that. I guess I will have to put some screw holes through that ceiling material but that and moving the electrical receptacles is all I need to do before Sat when the new fridge arrives. I'm waiting until I have it on hand to construct the new floor.
I have to say I'm very happy in how its gone so far. Kind of been dreading doing this but was really getting frustrated with the NotCold especially after this last trip.
Thanks to all that posted their experience doing there change out to a residential refrigerator. Made it a lot easier for me.
Enjoy your adventure and as Bob says you will find the result well worth the effort. I don't mind being confused with Diplomat Don and Dr4flim as they are both great guys and have made huge contributions to this community.

Bob
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Old 03-11-2015, 09:09 AM   #4
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Enjoy your adventure and as Bob says you will find the result well worth the effort. I don't mind being confused with Diplomat Don and Dr4flim as they are both great guys and have made huge contributions to this community.

Bob
Bob,
If your the guy that brain stormed the idea of using the bottle jack to remove the floor then I want to say thank you. Made that part of the Norcold removal a lot easier.
I've read a lot of your posts as well as Diplomat Don's and Dr4Film's on this subject and many others. Appreciate your contributions to this forum.
Now if I may pick your brain a little. Do you have the upper vent through the roof and if you do then did you seal it off and how?
Thanks for any help.
Keith
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Old 03-11-2015, 01:28 PM   #5
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Have you thought of using construction adhesives to glue in place what ever you are going to use cover the hole. You could cut some sticks long enough to hold the piece in place until the glue sets up
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Old 03-11-2015, 02:40 PM   #6
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Letsgoagain,

With regard to your vent, I am deathly afraid of creating anything that can trap water that may inadvertently get into the walls or roof of our MH. So, my main objective was to create something that should shed any water that tries to enter the top vent, but would not trap it if it gets in.

On our rig, there is an external exhaust top that extends a few inches above the roof line. I removed the cover (4 screws) and sealed up the top of the exhaust vent with eternabond tape. I left the bottom open to allow any moisture that may accidentally get in to drain down on the top of the refer.

I bought some insulating foam from HD (you can get it in 4x4 sections) and cut it to be a really tight fit for the hole in the roof. (Our MH has a wooden frame around the vent hole.) I pushed two layers of this foam up into the hole. This left about a one inch gap between the ceiling line and the bottom of the foam. While I doubt they would ever work loose, I cut two 3/4 square "dowels" to the length of the hole and screwed them just below the foam to make sure it would stay. (I know this sound like I blocked any water to the top of the foam, but there are small spaces where any trapped water can escape around the foam.)

I have not been in any violent storms since the install so I don't know if I have sealed it completely. But, I seriously do not expect to have any problems.
Bob
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Old 03-11-2015, 03:25 PM   #7
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Well.....I hope you are happy with the replacement

Re-the roof opening.. If you "Build in"whatever replaces the thing..Consider leaving it Improved ventelation will make the fridge work better

DO remove the cap and put on a fine insect blocking window screen however, then Re-fit the cap over that for rain protection.

Same with the outside portal.
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Old 03-11-2015, 04:27 PM   #8
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Have you thought of using construction adhesives to glue in place what ever you are going to use cover the hole. You could cut some sticks long enough to hold the piece in place until the glue sets up
itdave,

I did think about some kind of adhesive but I'm concerned if it will mess up the ceiling. Not sure why as it will probably never be seen but I was thinking if for some reason I ever want to remove the cover I might have trouble getting a glue/adhesive to release. I may end up doing that so I appreciate your reply.
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Old 03-11-2015, 04:45 PM   #9
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Letsgoagain,

With regard to your vent, I am deathly afraid of creating anything that can trap water that may inadvertently get into the walls or roof of our MH. So, my main objective was to create something that should shed any water that tries to enter the top vent, but would not trap it if it gets in.

On our rig, there is an external exhaust top that extends a few inches above the roof line. I removed the cover (4 screws) and sealed up the top of the exhaust vent with eternabond tape. I left the bottom open to allow any moisture that may accidentally get in to drain down on the top of the refer.

I bought some insulating foam from HD (you can get it in 4x4 sections) and cut it to be a really tight fit for the hole in the roof. (Our MH has a wooden frame around the vent hole.) I pushed two layers of this foam up into the hole. This left about a one inch gap between the ceiling line and the bottom of the foam. While I doubt they would ever work loose, I cut two 3/4 square "dowels" to the length of the hole and screwed them just below the foam to make sure it would stay. (I know this sound like I blocked any water to the top of the foam, but there are small spaces where any trapped water can escape around the foam.)

I have not been in any violent storms since the install so I don't know if I have sealed it completely. But, I seriously do not expect to have any problems.
Bob
Bob,
Thanks for the reply. Our motorhome has the same vent on the roof. I did think about using the eternabond so I'm really glad to hear that someone has done this before. I wonder if a can of the spray foam would work just as well although maybe it would seal it up to tight on the inside. Can't see any water getting by the cover and eternabond tape but I guess anythings possible.
I really want to seal both vents air tight as I read another post from a poster on here that was pulling generator exhaust back in through his air conditioner I think he said and also campground smoke in through the bottom vent when his wife turned on the fantastic roof van. That made his mind up to seal the bottom vent and makes since to me since I've done the same thing with the roof fans pulling smoke through open windows.
I'm getting a little long winded here so I'll finish up. Like the eternabond idea and think that's the method I'll use.
Thank you for your replies and ideas.
Keith
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Old 03-11-2015, 05:02 PM   #10
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Well.....I hope you are happy with the replacement

Re-the roof opening.. If you "Build in"whatever replaces the thing..Consider leaving it Improved ventelation will make the fridge work better

DO remove the cap and put on a fine insect blocking window screen however, then Re-fit the cap over that for rain protection.

Same with the outside portal.
wa8yxm,
I sure hope I'm happy with the replacement also. It's a Frigidaire 18 cubic foot model. Just didn't have the room for the Samsung. Wish I did but it's just not there. For now I'm not going to worry about running on the inverters since I have a modified sine wave inverter. We will just start out the day with the new fridge cold and monitor it during our drive time and use the generator if we see temps getting to warm. I really think that method will work fine as we hardly boondock and if we do we usually run the generator anyway. If it doesn't work out I will upgrade the inverter or put in a dedicated inverter for the fridge only.
As far as leaving the vents open I really don't want to do that as the potential for pulling fumes back in is to great inmy mind. Think window open and using the fantastic roof fans. You know it pulls air in very well and I can see an open vent just being another path for the air.
I'm committed now as the garbage man came today and I helped him load up the Norcold and the back cooling unit. He crushed them right before my joyous eyes.
Thanks for your reply.
Keith
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Old 03-12-2015, 05:06 AM   #11
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Bob,
If your the guy that brain stormed the idea of using the bottle jack to remove the floor then I want to say thank you. Made that part of the Norcold removal a lot easier.
I've read a lot of your posts as well as Diplomat Don's and Dr4Film's on this subject and many others. Appreciate your contributions to this forum.
Now if I may pick your brain a little. Do you have the upper vent through the roof and if you do then did you seal it off and how?
Thanks for any help.
Keith
Yes the bottle jack was my thought. We closed off the top and bottom vent for the Norcold. Stuff the opening with insulation and used a piece of plywood and a cross brace to keep the insulation in place. The Samsung RF 197 was designed to operater placed back into an opening in a cabinet and should not require in outside air. Just make sure you have the one inch clearance around the sides and top and a place for air to enter at the bottom.

Bob
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Old 03-12-2015, 11:55 AM   #12
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Just curious if you are going to remove a window to get the new refrig in or is the main door wide enough once you take the doors off the refrig? I am looking at doing the same thing with my Imperial. How wide is your opening where the norcold was? I think I can get around 32 inches when trimming the frame. With the cabinet depth refrig being 24 inches without the doors I think mine will go thru the main door. If not I will have to take the driver's side window out to get it in. I am not about to take the windshield out. I want the Samsung with the ice\water in door but I only see they make on cabinet depth and it is 35.75 inches wide. They make one with French doors and bottom freezer that is 32.1875 inches so might go with that one. Any help or ideas I would greatly appreciate it. Good luck with yours!
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Old 03-12-2015, 12:45 PM   #13
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Sugarbeach42,
You should scan through the RV System & Appliances forum on IRV2. There are a number of posts that tell how folks made the conversion. I would imagine you have the Norcold 1210 which is already 32 11/16 inches wide. That is one reason the Samsung RF197 (now Samsung RF18...) with a 32 1/8 inch width was such a popular replacement. A number of folks, myself included, have been able to get that unit through the front door (with the passenger's seat removed). You just have to be very careful when you do it and it takes a minimum of two and preferably three or four to lift it in the RV.

Letsgoagain is using a Frigidaire 18 cubic foot refer, so his method may differ unless you want to install a similar unit. The key to all of this is to measure every dimension several times. We even took the cardboard box the refer came in and cut it to the size of the refer and did trial runs of how to get it into the RV. This helped a lot when we did the actual move.

I thought I had it all worked out and am very happy with my installation. But, I have discovered that if I need to remove the middle shelf I have to pull the refer out about 8" to give me enough clearance on my left door. Something I missed on my measurements. (Yes, it means I have to remove the bolts that hold the unit in and have a platform in place to slide it out on. But, I do not envision having to remove that shelf unless something goes wrong with the evaporator.)

Again, the RV Systems & Appliances thread is loaded with different approaches to this conversion.
Bob
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Old 03-12-2015, 05:48 PM   #14
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Thanks Bob

Appreciate your sharing the experience you had doing your install. Who would have thought about the shelf needing to be changed would be such a big deal. I do all my own work and feel this refer change out is worth the effort and expense. My wife agrees the norcold is a pain and has to go.

One big concern are all the negative reviews on this size Samsung. I have had two large French door units and had no problems with them. Hate to think of having to pull it out for service or replacement.

We are changing out the sofas so it looks like I will need to take the driver's side window out to get the old ones out and new ones in so may just do the refer at the same time.

I always get these project vehicles, houses, wives, etc!!! I'm getting too old for these do overs! Be nice to walk in and write a check for a new one but hey that would be too easy, I love a challenge.
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