Have to fire genny to get heater on?? 93 Nav

[RUNDLC]

In order to turn on my propane fired heater (main one) I have to turn the genny on, let it run for a few minutes after the heater has fired and then I can shut it down and the heater will then continue to run. I am plugged into a 30 amp shore.

I have the same issue with the a/c side. Would the run capacitors control both sides? I am guessing they are very old and need to be replaced. The unit is a basement heatpump in my 93 nav. Heatpump in my world means elec heat and a/c but I guess not with motorhomes???

Thanks again guys

[autofish]

Rundlc---give me a call if you need help

[Robi.1014]

WRT the "propane-fired heater" situation...
If the gas-line (tubing) to your p-f-heater heater had been inactive for a long time (in storage, say), then you may be aware that the heater will try to ignite, but fail and will wait about 10 seconds and then try to ignite again, etc. etc. You can hear these "multiple ignition attempts" if you get your ear near the heater's location.

So my suggestion is to perform the following experiment:
Leave the genset off and turn the heater on. Do you hear these multiple ignition attempts?

Here's what I'm thinking:
Your p-f-heater fires up the gas (propane) via a high-voltage spark produced by an electronics pack. This "electronics pack" uses 12vdc (which BTW, might answer your question if there is a common "run capacitor" with this unit and your a/c unit....and the answer is "no"). If the input voltage to the heater (12vdc) is sagging (to say, 11vdc), the spark could be weak or non-existent. The electronics module will try the "multiple attempts" starting, but these attempts result in a failure to light the gas. No spark, no fire. After several attempts to ignite, the electronic module stops trying.

But....
When you start your genset, there is a charge being replaced into your house batteries, so your "sagging" 11vdc (at the heater) becomes a healthy 13vdc....and the heater's electronic module has no problem in creating the high-voltage spark. Hence: you get heat!!. As you stated, you now can turn-off the genset .... and the heater continues to work.

Suggest trying this "experiment" and let this forum know your findings.

[RUNDLC]

After looking again at my basment heatpump, I noticed that the propane line runs in the same bay but bypasses the heatpump altogether.

I have a basement a/s unit with a furnace adjacent to it unser the sink. I did replace the filter on it (a/c unit). The furnace unit seems to be operating as it should right now. I have cycled it on and off thru out the day and all is well. GO figure but happy none the less. Thanks guys I am sure something else will pop at some point.

[Mr_D]

Quote:

Originally Posted by RUNDLC In order to turn on my propane fired heater (main one) I have to turn the genny on, let it run for a few minutes after the heater has fired and then I can shut it down and the heater will then continue to run. I am plugged into a 30 amp shore. I have the same issue with the a/c side. Would the run capacitors control both sides? I am guessing they are very old and need to be replaced. The unit is a basement heatpump in my 93 nav. Heatpump in my world means elec heat and a/c but I guess not with motorhomes??? Thanks again guys

Heat pump is actually an air con running in reverse. So it's not actually electric heat (as it heating coils) but it does take electricity to run it. Usually 120 volt only as it's too much load for an inverter although there are some that will do it.