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RustyTools · 11-20-2019, 12:27 PM

I've narrowed down (I hope) an intermittent headlite issue to a bad headlite switch.

Q1: How do I get the little round switch cover off the switch stalk? (hacksaw or torch come to mind).
Q2: I'd like to have the new switch in-hand before I remove the old one, but I'd need the part number first. Can anyone suggest which I need?

It's not all bad tho, I finally learned how to turn on the interior lite directly over the driver... just turn the headlite switch (duh!)

rschreifels · 11-20-2019, 01:54 PM

When I took mine out, on the body of the switch (under the dash), there was a small button (or pin) that I pressed to release the knob and shaft.

RustyTools · 11-20-2019, 01:57 PM

Answering the first part of my own question, getting the knob off, was the easy part. I thought it'd be the toughie. Seems there's a little spring-loaded button on top of the switch that you push in, and then pull the big knob with a mighty yank. The switch then comes out easy.

Now for the hard part. There are NO PART NUMBERS on the switch except for "4406", which I assume is a manufacturing date.

HELP!

theaaronbush · 11-20-2019, 02:01 PM

https://youtu.be/YtcuRmTurmo

Here’s a good video to follow for the switch! No torch needed!

theaaronbush · 11-20-2019, 02:05 PM

There are several switches that look just like that...just count the number of pins on the switch and make sure it matches. I got mine off of eBay for $15 and cane with a polished aluminum knob!

RustyTools · 11-20-2019, 02:14 PM

Thanks, guys. Looks like we were all texting at about the same time.

The video spoiled all the fun - I was going to go with the big bolt-cutters to get out my frustrations.

And seeing the switch he pulled-out, I can start searching for older model GMC switches. Very cool!

Much appreciated help!!

theaaronbush · 11-20-2019, 02:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RustyTools

Thanks, guys. Looks like we were all texting at about the same time.

The video spoiled all the fun - I was going to go with the big bolt-cutters to get out my frustrations.

And seeing the switch he pulled-out, I can start searching for older model GMC switches. Very cool!

Much appreciated help!!

No problem...like I said earlier, just make sure you get the one with the same pins as yours and you’ll be all set!

Happycarz · 11-20-2019, 10:12 PM

AC Delco D1588, or what the parts store crosses that number to.

Happycarz · 11-20-2019, 10:26 PM

3 white wires, numbered 67, 68, & 69 run from under dash up column to the turn signal/hi-lo beam switch. They get crisp!

67 comes from headlight switch.
68 goes to lo beam.
69 goes to hi beam.

Be sure to check low on the column for the crispy connector there. If all good there and 67 is always hot with headlight switch on, check for voltage on 68 and 69 when flicking hi beam switch.

You also have all the turn signal wires running up the column. The three wire bundle may be tape to the big bundle. Maybe not.

Sometimes the wire connection, sometimes the column switch assembly, which can be replaced without removing steering wheel.

Douglas AutoTech 1900008 switch, $92.99 from

MPparts.com

https://mpparts.com/part/douglas-aut...ch-kit-1900008

RustyTools · 11-21-2019, 05:10 AM

Awesome! Got the exact part number now, thanks (again) Harry! And everyone else, too, for your help! I'd zero-ed in on a generic version of same on Amazon, but would feel better with an OEM - even if they probably put the same one in a different box.

In researching last nite, I saw several threads about the wiring being a bit undersized for the current flow. I have time to put in some relays while waiting for the switch. I'll check for toasted wires while in there.

Wait! What? Do I hear the UPS truck already?

LETMGROW · 11-21-2019, 05:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RustyTools

Awesome! Got the exact part number now, thanks (again) Harry! And everyone else, too, for your help! I'd zero-ed in on a generic version of same on Amazon, but would feel better with an OEM - even if they probably put the same one in a different box.

In researching last nite, I saw several threads about the wiring being a bit undersized for the current flow. I have time to put in some relays while waiting for the switch. I'll check for toasted wires while in there.

Wait! What? Do I hear the UPS truck already?

Revisiting your original post, did the head lights go out for a few seconds then come back on?

Please allow me to pass on a little tip. Before you install the switch into the dash, push the knob and stem into the switch until it locks into position. Pull the knob out so the switch is in the on position then push the knob very slightly back into the switch. Now push the knob release button in and slide the knob /stem assembly back out of the switch. Sometimes these switches are boxed and sent with the switch in the off position. This can make it difficult to get the knob /stem assembly back into the switch and locked firmly into place after the switch is installed.
Lynn

RustyTools · 11-21-2019, 06:38 AM

An excellent tip. Thanks! That could save a lot of aggravation. Sounds like you've been-there-done-that.

No issues with intermittent operation, other than when I wiggle the stalk. If I find the 'sweet spot', they work just fine.

LETMGROW · 11-22-2019, 05:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RustyTools

An excellent tip. Thanks! That could save a lot of aggravation. Sounds like you've been-there-done-that.

No issues with intermittent operation, other than when I wiggle the stalk. If I find the 'sweet spot', they work just fine.

I would definitely be changing that switch. I'm surprised the switch you have is a switch General Motors hasn't used in vehicles since 1974 according to the NAPA buyer's guide. It was used on different model Buick's, Cadillac's, Chevrolet's, GMC's, Oldsmobile's and Pontiac's as far back as 1960.
Over the years I have replace dozens of these switches if not more. A part of what I did for a living.
Lynn

RustyTools · 11-22-2019, 06:24 AM

I did a post-mortem on the switch, and shined the contacts, cleaned it up, re-greased it, and then put it back together. Now I have a spare

I also played with your suggestion on how to re-install the switch. Nice idea, thanks.

Not unusual that they'd find something that's been around forever, and cheap. Similar situation with a lot of the headlite assemblies themselves. I'm guessing the '4406' was the mfgr date, anyways.