Go Back   iRV2 Forums > THE OWNER'S CORNER FORUMS > Monaco Owner's Forum
Click Here to Login
Join iRV2 Today

Mission Statement: Supporting thoughtful exchange of knowledge, values and experience among RV enthusiasts.
Reply
  This discussion is proudly sponsored by:
Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about their products on iRV2
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 08-27-2012, 10:23 AM   #1
Senior Member
 
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 1,885
Holiday Ramber - Entry Door Hing adjustment

1999 Holiday Rambler Vacationer.
The hinges on this thing, over the years, have worn by about 2mm or so. The actual aluminum on the hinge, at the washer is worn..
I'm considering using split washers to physically push the hinges up... A few questions:
1) Is the split washer approach a viable way of doing this?
2) Are they hinges themselves adjustable?
3) Getting the hinges off - seems to be blocked by the outer ring around the door..

__________________

__________________
cb1000rider is offline   Reply With Quote
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!

iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!

Old 08-27-2012, 08:07 PM   #2
Senior Member
 
nightriderrv's Avatar
 
Fleetwood Owners Club
Join Date: May 2012
Location: NC
Posts: 1,682
The bad thing is the washers will ware down and will ware down the alum frame, the long pin in the door would have to be knocked out to replace washers but sometimes it won't come out, another way is to unscrew door off the frame and raise the door up and drill in new holes that would help with clearence issues and dragging
__________________

__________________
Mark Anderson - Nebo NC - western NC - RV Restoration tech - 9 Doggies - Outdoors person
1990 33ft Wilderness Cimarron 33X
nightriderrv is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-27-2012, 08:56 PM   #3
Senior Member
 
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 1,885
Mark, the OEM design came with washers. Wearing down of the aluminum frame is what I'm seeing now - I'll add some detail and resize the photos. If I pull the pin, I'm still looking at using washers..

It's not obvious to me how the door hinge pin comes out. It appears that I must remove all of the trim around the door, which again, seems to be riveted on there. Here's what I mean, the pin clearly comes out by pulling up, but the door trim is in the way:





In regard to unscrewing the frame - which it sounds like you're saying is not adjustable. I need the door to move up maybe 2mm or so. Drilling a hole within 2mm of the original hole isn't an option... Also, I understand that this is a bad idea as there may be a backing plate that can fall out if you remove all the screws.

I think I'm going to try shimming it with split washers - flat ones, if I can find 'em.
__________________
cb1000rider is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-28-2012, 06:08 AM   #4
Senior Member
 
nightriderrv's Avatar
 
Fleetwood Owners Club
Join Date: May 2012
Location: NC
Posts: 1,682
I've seen this many times I can't see the first shot you put up but that hinge should screw to the frame then the doors screw to it some were pop rivet in if it is then they can be removed and worked on the bench. will all your doors unscrew off the hinge
__________________
Mark Anderson - Nebo NC - western NC - RV Restoration tech - 9 Doggies - Outdoors person
1990 33ft Wilderness Cimarron 33X
nightriderrv is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-28-2012, 06:37 AM   #5
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Snowbird - Waterford Mi and Citrus Springs Fl.
Posts: 3,601
Mine's doing the same thing. It doesn't appear to be dragging too badly yet, but doing something about those hinges is on the "to do" list. Mine is fastened to the doors and frame with screws - as yours appears to be. One of the screws is visible in your first pic. I will probably remove the hinges one at a time, install extra washers, then reinstall, and go to the next hinge doing the same thing.

BTW, not sure about backing plates. If they are in use, they would be accessible by removing the trim on the inside of the coach?
__________________
1997 37' HR Endeavor, 275hp Cat, Freightliner
03 CR-V Blue Ox, Ready Brake
ahicks is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-28-2012, 07:18 AM   #6
Senior Member
 
nightriderrv's Avatar
 
Fleetwood Owners Club
Join Date: May 2012
Location: NC
Posts: 1,682
You can take a screw out to see but they use to screw direct to the frame
__________________
Mark Anderson - Nebo NC - western NC - RV Restoration tech - 9 Doggies - Outdoors person
1990 33ft Wilderness Cimarron 33X
nightriderrv is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-28-2012, 07:30 AM   #7
Senior Member
 
Drifter's Avatar
 
Monaco Owners Club
Holiday Rambler Owners Club
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 1,645
Could you use small C-clips as spacers instead of taking the hinge apart and running a chance of breaking the screw heads off?
__________________
Mike & Sharon and our Pup Frankie
2008 HR Endeavor 40PDQ

Drifter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-28-2012, 08:32 AM   #8
Senior Member
 
nightriderrv's Avatar
 
Fleetwood Owners Club
Join Date: May 2012
Location: NC
Posts: 1,682
That another trick that will work because they are thin to make the small adjustments
__________________
Mark Anderson - Nebo NC - western NC - RV Restoration tech - 9 Doggies - Outdoors person
1990 33ft Wilderness Cimarron 33X
nightriderrv is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-28-2012, 04:51 PM   #9
Senior Member


 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 1,142
Just an amateur chiming in here. I have encountered this problem on both my motor homes. On both of them, I ended up using the E-clip (sometimes called C-clip) fix, but found that the additional height was not enough. Removing the door hingle pin proved impossible in both cases. Removing the door frame seemed an even larger task that might be fraught with complications (I'm learnin'--LOL). What worked very, very well and was quite easy was to unscrew the hinges from the coach frame one at a time, then using a Dremel tool with a 1/8" diameter carbide bit to elongate the holes in the hinges. After finishing all three hinges, I was able to easily slide the door upwards, then tighten the hinge screws. When the adjustment was satisfactory, I drilled one additional hole for a body-bound screw to serve as a security fastener.

One caveat--on the second coach, a Monaco, I performed this procedure three times and each time after several weeks it was needed again. I finally realized that it was the DOOR itself that was sagging, not just wear in the hinge. I have not permanently fixed that problem yet, but I suspect it will require adding one of those old-timey turnbuckle-type screen door supports, hopefully on the inside of the door. It is possible that simply disassembling the door will reveal a way to strengthen and square it up again, but I'm doubtful. Many of these RV products made from mitered extrusions are just begging to sag. I've fixed a dozen Fleetwood cargo doors by welding the extrusions together, but I doubt that is a reasonable option in this case.
__________________
Vanwill is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-28-2012, 05:38 PM   #10
Senior Member
 
nightriderrv's Avatar
 
Fleetwood Owners Club
Join Date: May 2012
Location: NC
Posts: 1,682
Thats a really good fix I like it!!!
__________________
Mark Anderson - Nebo NC - western NC - RV Restoration tech - 9 Doggies - Outdoors person
1990 33ft Wilderness Cimarron 33X
nightriderrv is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-29-2012, 02:08 PM   #11
Senior Member
 
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 1,885
That's a good point. If I knew the hinges were plated on the back side, slotting the frame makes sense....
__________________
cb1000rider is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-20-2012, 09:19 PM   #12
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 2
I just fixed the same problem on my Monaco LaPalma. I took each hinge off and added 4 washers. To get the hinges of was quite and ordeal had to grind the pin and then the screen door hinge was very difficult to remove (must be removed to get to the centre hinge) I ended up having to grind the pin to remove a real pain. The good news the door is working fine. You will also have to replace the screw as mine stripped in the process of removing. Good Luck Mike.
__________________
msullivan8 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-21-2012, 07:26 AM   #13
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Snowbird - Waterford Mi and Citrus Springs Fl.
Posts: 3,601
Just did mine. Found the screws going into the door jam were double plated when I removed the first hinge completely to install washers. That wasn't too big a deal. I just used #12 pan head screws in the original holes and they tightened down nicely, seem to hold fine. The second 2 hinges though, I just loosened the screws going in to the jam. After removing the screws going in to both doors, the hinge will move far enough to remove the hinge pin easily.

To free a stuck screw, fit the screwdriver into the screw, then hit she screwdriver smartly with a hammer once or twice. That's usually enough to convince it you mean business.

The screen hinge has a small lip on the jam/back side of it, does not just pull straight off. You have to monkey around with it. Knowing that made the second 2 hinges no brainers.

I used 2 3/16" alum. pop rivet backing washers in 2 places on each hinge. They're thicker, fit the pin perfectly and the outside diameter was about the same size as what was there.

I had one hinge pin that would not pull out. After dressing the bottom of it a little with a file it pulled out fine. Took 2 minutes.

Total time of project maybe 1 1/2 hours working at a leisurely pace? The first hinge was the hardest, taking the majority of the time. Once figured out, the second 2 went very quickly.

-Al
__________________
1997 37' HR Endeavor, 275hp Cat, Freightliner
03 CR-V Blue Ox, Ready Brake
ahicks is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-21-2012, 11:08 AM   #14
YC1
Senior Member
 
YC1's Avatar


 
Holiday Rambler Owners Club
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 5,401
From the picture I would use a dremel tool and cut the head off the bottom of the hinge pin. Then put some duct tape just above the top of the pin to protect the paint. With a small stick and hammer tap the flange back so the pin will lift out. You won't need to worry about the bottom of the pin when you replace it. You should be able to gently pull the top metal you tapped back into the original position.
__________________

__________________
Myron & Deborah
08 HR Endeavor 40 SKQ
2012 Ford Edge Limited FWD 3.5L
Aluminator tow bar, Demco base plate
YC1 is online now   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
door



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 06:33 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.