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Old 02-19-2018, 07:44 PM   #1
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Arrow Hot Water Tank Temperature Adjustment?

Hi guys!

I've noticed something about the hot water tank in my '00 Diplomat. If I leave the heater on (electric) all night and get up in the morning and then also turn on the propane heater - it will run for between 15 to 20 minutes before it shuts off.

I'm inferring from that behavior that the temperature limit on the propane heater is higher then the electric heater in the tank - by a fair amount.

I'm noticing that if I really want good hot water the way to fly (such as a shower in the morning) is to also run the propane heater at the same time.

I'm now wondering if it's possible that the hot water heating element is out of adjustment or needs replacing. The more I thought about it, the more I started thinking that perhaps it can be adjusted?

Does anyone know if my theory is correct?
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Old 02-19-2018, 07:57 PM   #2
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I have always found that propane is a more effective and efficient heat source than propane. It probably has more to do with the fact that you are using two heat sources instead of just one. In our old TT the recovery time was about half if we ran it on propane and electric. Oddly our current 1998 Dynasty has hot water for longer and a shorter recovery time with propane only compared to our old TT.
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Old 02-19-2018, 07:59 PM   #3
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Damn, I should have proofread that post. I wish we could edit these!! I meant to say that propane is usually more efficient and effective than electric.
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Old 02-19-2018, 08:40 PM   #4
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Gotcha - and thanks for the posting up your experience as it seems to gibe with mine. This morning I got a nice long hot shower out of it but I have noticed when it's on electric-only it morning shower duration seems to be more hit or miss. I do realize that volume will effect duration so I intentionally decrease volume to extract the most duration.

But on electric it seems to be more hit or miss and given that first thing in the morning (pre-shower) the propane water heater will run a good 15 or 20 minutes before shutting off. This is what made me wonder if the heater on the tank can be adjusted (turned up) as, in my mind, first thing in the morning the tank should be more/less as hot as the propane would make it.
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Old 02-19-2018, 09:06 PM   #5
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Yes, as Hartman 2112 said, recovery on the electric side is slower and not as efficient when using the propane side or both. Your typical RV water heater has only one electric heating element.


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Old 02-19-2018, 09:40 PM   #6
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I use both for quick recovery, propane and electric. I did replace my thermostat, and believe that they are preset at 140 degrees.
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Old 02-20-2018, 07:43 AM   #7
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Just a thought.... Have you flushed the tank annually or more often with one of the wands built for that purpose? A build-up can occur that will reduce the efficiency of the electric element.
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Old 02-20-2018, 11:12 AM   #8
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Bob-

It would help if you told us the make and model of your coach's water heater.

If I remember "Old-Biscuit's" guidance, late-model Atwood 6- and 10-gallon water heaters use the same controls, including thermostat, for gas and electric. I'm too lazy to look up "late-model," but I vaguely remember it's something like 2004 and later.

If you have one of those, I'd suspect the electric element is not working well.

On our coach's 6-gallon Atwood, flipping the propane switch does nothing if the electric has it up to temperature- until you start to draw water, after which the temp drops enough to cause the propane to light off for recovery.
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Old 02-20-2018, 06:10 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by l1v3fr33ord1 View Post
Bob-

It would help if you told us the make and model of your coach's water heater.
Gotcha - it's an Atwood GC10A-3E

Apparently, that means;

GC = Gas & AC Electric
10 = 10 Gallons
A = Heating Element
3 = Revision
E = Electronic Ignition

Year would be 2000 or perhaps a little earlier manufacturing date ('99)
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Old 02-20-2018, 06:30 PM   #10
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Bob-

Here's a post in an iRV2 thread that may be of interest.

Here's a link to a Google search of iRV2 posts that have "Old-Biscuit's" name and "3E" in them. The link above comes from that set of results.

I just learned by reading that the "3E" model does use a separate thermostat for the 120V side.
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Old 02-20-2018, 07:04 PM   #11
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Correct........
2003 and earlier Atwood models use separate sets for T-stat/ECO
Electric set is 120V AC and are located on backside of water heater tank just above where the electric element is located.
Propane set is on front of water heater tank just above gas valve....12V DC set

BOTH electric and propane are snap disc type pre-set ---no adjustment
T-stat...Normal temp controlling t-stat......OEM 140*F (optional 130*F available)
ECO..Energy Cut Off/Hi Temp t-stat..........OEM 180*F

Electric has slowest recovery rate....roughly 6 gal/hr initial fill cold
Propane slightly better recovery rate...roughly 10gal/hr initial fill cold
BOTH together fastest recovery rate.....roughly 16 gal/hr initial fill cold

Both electric and propane should turn ON/turn OFF roughly at same time/temps

BUT if one is lagging then could be due to Optional Lower Temp T-stat being used (replacement)
OR
Connections on T-stat are dirty/corroded/loose

Usually if t-stat is NOT tightly held against tank wall it will result in Higher Temps due to lack temp transfer to t-stat

At 140*F water should cool down to roughly 110*F before t-stat Closes and allows for heating cycle



As for 2004 and later Atwood models.........SAME
Except only one set of T-stat/ECO and DC Voltage/circuit board controls 120V AC element and Propane circuits


Suburban still uses separate sets of T-stats....Normal/High
120V AC Left side and 12V DC (Propane) Right side
130*F Normal---170*F High/Manual reset
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Old 02-20-2018, 08:43 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BobJones View Post
Gotcha - it's an Atwood GC10A-3E

Apparently, that means;

GC = Gas & AC Electric
10 = 10 Gallons
A = Heating Element
3 = Revision
E = Electronic Ignition

Year would be 2000 or perhaps a little earlier manufacturing date ('99)
I had a 3E in my TT with the same problem. I purchase t-sta/ECO and that solved the problem. I purchase a element just in case, but did not have to use it. The t-sta/ECO for the 120 is located in the rear, propane in front. I now have a 4E in my MH with one t-sta/ECO. Good Luck.
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Old 02-20-2018, 08:50 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by bedbugger View Post
I had a 3E in my TT with the same problem. I purchase t-sta/ECO and that solved the problem. I purchase a element just in case, but did not have to use it. The t-sta/ECO for the 120 is located in the rear, propane in front. I now have a 4E in my MH with one t-sta/ECO. Good Luck.
Sorry. I just now read Old-Biscuit. Right on
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Old 02-20-2018, 09:56 PM   #14
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Thanks everyone! So it's not really adjustable. For some reason I had it in my head that you could adjust hot water tank heaters.

I often wonder if the ultimate would be changing it over to an on-demand gas fired system. I would think that it would be easy since the gas and water lines are already there.
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