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Old 05-25-2019, 08:12 PM   #15
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It all depends on what was used to determine your rig's level.

I had our rig in the shop for some issues including a problem with the auto-level. After determining it was level, the system would then extend the street-side rear jack torquing the frame a little. I had a technician level the trailer and reset the auto-level which corrected the issue. He determined the level by measuring the distance from the level shop floor to the four corners of the trailer frame. He then confirmed it by using a long level on the frame. The rig looked level from the outside. However, a pencil would quickly roll off the island and not move at all on the peninsula a couple of feet away. The same level he used on the frame showed the floor wasn't level. Unless the manufacturer checks the level at all stages of the build, there is no way to accurately check a rigs level.

As long as my doors will close and latch and my slide-outs don't bind, I'm level enough.
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Old 05-25-2019, 10:09 PM   #16
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TrumaApp is an app with a leveling tool. You enter the wheelbase and track, then set the phone on a known level surface and calibrate. When you arrive set the phone in its spot and you get measurements that each wheel is low. Makes it easier to guess if you will get level with jacks or need blocks under wheels.

Bathroom door is the final check
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Old 05-26-2019, 12:00 AM   #17
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Torpedo level. On tile floor towards front of RV. Again on time floor nearer rear of RV (checking for twist).

Close enough counts, doesn't have to be perfect...
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Old 05-26-2019, 04:46 AM   #18
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As we've gotten more experienced I've gone from agonizing over getting it perfect to if I'm comfortable it's fine.

If the bathroom door will stay where I put it that works. We also have clear, plastic cups with horizontal lines that work great.
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Old 05-26-2019, 04:49 AM   #19
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My Auto Level was factory set in 2000 so the A/C water runs off the drivers side back of the Coach..........everything inside is great as far as level.
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Old 05-26-2019, 05:14 AM   #20
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Using our half bath hinged door. If it stays where I open it, I'm close enough.
If I'm anal or bored, a three foot level on the floor, but that rarely happens.


.
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Old 05-26-2019, 05:27 AM   #21
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I place a small round bubble level on the kitchen counter. If it’s near level, I press auto level, otherwise I’ll move the RV, or manual level depending on how out of level it is.
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Old 05-26-2019, 05:28 AM   #22
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After experience you will not worry too much about it...


Once I anally proved mine was level by all of the above when I first got my first rv,

I now have a little 6" level that I put on the drink holder and if it's close, it's good..


Only important if you have an absorption fridge and you don't like the wife rolling into you in bed
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Old 05-26-2019, 05:45 AM   #23
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With the kitchen in my slideout, after auto leveling the MH, and putting out the slide, my DW complains that the countertop and cooktop are not level. Says it makes it hard for her to cook, so I manually re-level a little, using a torpedo level on the countertop, to make the DW happy. Happy wife, happy life !!
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Old 05-26-2019, 05:53 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TommyHarris View Post
How do you check your level after operating the automatic leveling? I have a small level that I place on the floor in a few places, but this is not very accurate, since the floor is not entirely even. I would like to hear how you do it.
Thanks!
I seldom use the auto level as it has had a habit of going off the reservation (Not working correctly) so I, like you use a small level to get it close then I will use the Mid station Bathroom Door - when it can stay, not move, in all positions without moving then I'm Level.

Been doing it that way for a good while with Great results - DW is happy.

Hope this helps,

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Old 05-26-2019, 06:18 AM   #25
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2 bubble levels that I can see from the driver seat, then a final check with the fridge door.
If the door stays where I put it, time for a coldy!
Happy Glamping.
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Old 05-26-2019, 06:47 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit View Post
Set a glass of water on counter and eyeball it.


That is close enough!

I just use a plastic glass that has perpendicular sides. If it doesn't roll very much front to back and side to side while resting on the kitchen counter, we're good.
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Old 05-26-2019, 06:49 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Busskipper View Post
I seldom use the auto level as it has had a habit of going off the reservation (Not working correctly) so I, like you use a small level to get it close then I will use the Mid station Bathroom Door - when it can stay, not move, in all positions without moving then I'm Level.

Been doing it that way for a good while with Great results - DW is happy.

Hope this helps,

I'm convinced that my auto-leveling is insane. No matter how many times I calibrate it or how closely I follow the manual it's sort of like a carnival ride. It oddly starts by raising the high side then bringing the low side to to level. It's level, but I can get it level a few inches lower by just doing it myself.

On our LCI unit:
I manually lower the front levelers until they have weight on them.

Then I manually lower the rear until they carry weight.

Then whichever end shows a light on the leveler is low, and I push that button until it stops. When it stops the system thinks it's level front-to-rear.

Then if either side light is on -- right or left -- I push that button until it stops.

That's virtually always close enough, quicker than auto-leveling, and a few inches lower than the auto-leveler will do it.
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Old 05-26-2019, 07:05 AM   #28
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I have a small bullseye level mounted on the dog house so I can see it from the drivers seat.. Its not perfectly level, but very close.

ALSO - I modified my manual Power Gear jacks so I can now raise the jacks individually. This makes leveling a lot easier.

How to raise Power Gear jacks one at a time – 1999 Southwind 35S

..
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