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Old 03-02-2017, 08:41 PM   #1
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How does your bedroom smell after driving?

After driving for a few hours, what's the air like in the rear bedroom in your coach? We often feel the need to open the windows, turn the ceiling fan on and air out the bedroom. There seems to be a subtle feeling that some kind of engine smell or exhaust is lingering in the air.

Once aired out, the air quality is fine. I have looked at the rubber seals on the interior hatches in the bedroom and wardrobe, cleaned them up, and will put some dressing on them to keep them supple.

Is this something that needs to be addressed or does this just come with the territory? As you can see, our rig is a 2009 HR Scepter.

Thanks for weighing in on this.
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Old 03-02-2017, 09:03 PM   #2
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Ours is hotter than blazes but no odor. Check your exhaust system and make sure it is all intact, no cracks, etc
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Old 03-02-2017, 09:03 PM   #3
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Barry a couple of things that I have addressed with Happycarz help. One I added the engine vent on the back of the coach. Allows the heat to escape the engine compartment and transferring heat into bedroom/closet.
The other are the two hatch seals, they compress overtime and don't think they were the right seal to begin with. Happycarz sent me the product information he used to address this issue.
Do you have like a black dirt ring around each hatch? If so that's the clue they have failed. Let us know.
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Old 03-02-2017, 09:13 PM   #4
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Black ring around hatch

Yes on the black ring. It's very faint, but noticeable and did not completely come out despite professional carpet steam cleaning. Is there a thread on the Happycarz fix or can you share it?
Thanks!
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Old 03-02-2017, 11:57 PM   #5
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The original bulb seal around the hatches gets distorted easily and even when the coach was new, the seal did not make complete contact on the sealing lip of the bedroom engine covers.

I replaced my seals with the product below. The biggest effort was removing all the old gasket and adhesive. When doing the two radius corners of each hatch, miter a short piece of the new gasket to fill the corner. Secure the hatch, letting it sit tight on the new gasket for a couple of minutes, and then remove cover. Look closely for a continuous sealing impression in the new gasket to make sure there are no voids.

Once done, you may have to adjust the latch contact bolts on the bottom side of the hatch cover. The new gasket is much firmer and the adjustment may have to be backed off a bit to snap the latches closed.

Also be sure to check for exhaust dust in the closets, as many seams have air gaps to the engine compartment. Silicone caulk anything that looks suspicious.

Unless you have a failing exhaust gasket, most of the exhaust entering the bedroom is from the eddy currents at the rear of the coach.


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Old 03-03-2017, 02:13 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Happycarz View Post
The original bulb seal around the hatches gets distorted easily and even when the coach was new, the seal did not make complete contact on the sealing lip of the bedroom engine covers.

I replaced my seals with the product below. The biggest effort was removing all the old gasket and adhesive. When doing the two radius corners of each hatch, miter a short piece of the new gasket to fill the corner. Secure the hatch, letting it sit tight on the new gasket for a couple of minutes, and then remove cover. Look closely for a continuous sealing impression in the new gasket to make sure there are no voids.

Once done, you may have to adjust the latch contact bolts on the bottom side of the hatch cover. The new gasket is much firmer and the adjustment may have to be backed off a bit to snap the latches closed.

Also be sure to check for exhaust dust in the closets, as many seams have air gaps to the engine compartment. Silicone caulk anything that looks suspicious.

Unless you have a failing exhaust gasket, most of the exhaust entering the bedroom is from the eddy currents at the rear of the coach.


Attachment 153693


Thanks Harry for posting information for Barry. Your right about the seams, poorly sealed for sure. I used a polyurethane I believe Dynaflex ( black) available at Home Depot.
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Old 03-03-2017, 12:40 PM   #7
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Ours just gets warm too... especially the closet along the back...

But how DO you remove the engine cover on our 2011 monaco diplomat 43dft ? it looks like it's just laid in !

I assume you take that first trim piece off the bottom of the closet and then what ?
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Old 03-03-2017, 04:53 PM   #8
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Ours just gets warm too... especially the closet along the back...

But how DO you remove the engine cover on our 2011 monaco diplomat 43dft ? it looks like it's just laid in !

I assume you take that first trim piece off the bottom of the closet and then what ?
The tiled hatch lifts up and you'll see another hatch screwed down. It has a metal side that faces the engine. I replace the rubber seal and put a sheet, cut to size, of the insulated foil everyone used on windows to block the sun, Result was far better seal, no temperature problems and a quieter rear bath area.
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Old 03-03-2017, 05:39 PM   #9
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Thanks dawgs so I juat get my fingernails until the lip and pull up ?
Have some spare reflectix that can go in there fine !
(if I can get it open )
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Old 03-03-2017, 07:09 PM   #10
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I had this exhaust problem so bad after driving over an hour we would pull off and open the door.We had to leave the rear exhaust fan on when driving.Get to the destination turn off engine air quality was fine.after two years of this My luck was going to change.I was looking for a space to pull a control from the engine area to the bedroom.The water hose from engine go thru the compartment fire wall are sealed with liq. Star foam. I noticed it was very loose. Went to H D purchased a spray can of weather sealer. Exhaust Odor Gone, been two years now.hope this helps.
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Old 03-03-2017, 07:31 PM   #11
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Thanks dawgs so I juat get my fingernails until the lip and pull up ?
Have some spare reflectix that can go in there fine !
(if I can get it open )
The hatch is in 2 sections. One in the closet and the larger one in your tile floor. Just lift the end opposite the closet just enough to clear the floor then pull back from under the bottom closet rail. The bottom hatch is screwed down and just 3/4" plywood with a sheet of metal on the engine side. I put a new rubber seal down and used additional screws. We were getting a very lite black road dust and knew it was road film coming up through the access hatch. This also reduced engine noise by 90%. Good luck.
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Old 03-05-2017, 04:41 PM   #12
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If you have a sink in your bedroom take a look under sink there is a check valve that pipes down to your Black holding tank, it is part of your black water flush system, it may need replacing.

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Old 03-07-2017, 10:09 AM   #13
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Ordered AuVeCo product. Our smell/vapor is definitely engine compartment related vs sewer. Thanks all!
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Old 03-07-2017, 04:14 PM   #14
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Berry, I can tell you for sure you have a exhaust leak from the engine. Check inside the engine compartment for any wires, pipes, etc going thru the firewall to the coach. There is a opening not sealed properly.it took me two years to find the leak.If you have a rear closet pull the draws out, look behind them for access holes.
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