How to replace portion of subfloor in 95 Windsor

[gahbeck]

We recently noticed our wood floor bowing up in a couple of places. I knew there had been a leak from a broken toilet valve and once from the refigerator defrosting on us.. but it looks as though we didn't get all the water and it has damaged the subfloor under the wood. After removing the wood flooring, we discovered a 2x2 foot area and some of the surrounding area of the wafer board was just gone.. So this leads to my question. Under the subfloor/waferboard there is extremely tough cloth/nylon/screen like material that separates the metal bracing and the subfloor. I know I need to cut a portion of the subfloor out for replacement.. but how do I do it so that I do not cut into this material. If I do cut it.. what are the ramifications and is it repairable. Thought I would throw the question out before I tried anything and deeply appreciate any responses.

[Ernie Ekberg]

Can you provide a few photos? There are lots of handy folks here.

[gahbeck]

Ernie,

Thanks for your recommendation. Here are some attached photos of the damage and the black fabric underlayment under the wafer board. It is not pretty and I know I will be replacing alot of this sub-floor along with the Cabinet that houses the Fridge.

Thanks,

Gary
95 Monaco Windsor

[Drifter]

Try using a Roto-Zip or a Router and set the depth less than the thickness of the OSB board, then use a razor knife to finish the cut. Also make the sections removed a easy size to replace, make replacement one piece to retain strength. Good luck

[Diplomat Don]

The above suggestions are good. Once you cut nearly all the way through, you might be able to snap the pieces off. You can also slide a piece of tin/sheet metal under the area you intend to cut so that the blade just knicks the sheet metal. Move the piece around as you cut.

If you do tear up the black underlayment, you can probably buy some more and size it a little larger than your damaged area. Glue the edges and slide it under the original flooring on four sides.

You're going to have to make the final cut so that all four sides of the replacement piece touches framework. If you can't get all four sides to sit on framework, you could probably use wood biscuits on one side to make the joint secure between the old floor and new.

Finally, I would use some Hard as Nails glue to fill in the joints between the repair and the original wood. Spread it with a putty knife so that it's smooth and let it harden. Sand when dry for an even surface. This will keep the new piece from moving/separating and leaving a ridge where the old and new meet.

[Ernie Ekberg]

All great tips. Just go slow and you should be fine. Where is your gas cut off for your refrigerator located? The gas line may come up in the refer cabinet along with some electric lines

[mikedes]

Another thought on a tool to cut with is a small ( 4 1/2" ) grinder with a cut off wheel. Might be easier to use than router or roto-zip - I did a section on mine ( Diplomat ) and worked fine
Mike

[gahbeck]

Ok! Thanks everyone for the suggestions. I will give it a shot and post the results of how it went.

Gary

[William Willard]

gahbeck -- Gary, I worked on park models for years, & the belly material they used, is the same as your MH -- I`ve cut the material many times to repair plumbing, squeeky floors, & ect -- We used a black, heavy tape, to repair the cuts, & it did a good job of holding, without turning loose -- If you live close to a RV dealer that sells, or repair trailers, you could most likely get the tape from them -- I`ve had to repair rotted floors, & untill you tear it apart, it would be hard to say what course of action to take, but I`ve never seen one that couldn`t be fixed, so just take your time, & you`ll figure it out -- Good Luck -- Bill Willard

[gahbeck]

Bill, I really appreciate the advice.

Thanks,
Gary