Community Forums

broadrun · 04-22-2015, 10:32 AM

I had it running last week with no issues. Today when I turned it over I got no crank, no noise whatsoever. The dash board does have the "low fuel" light illuminated however. I should have half tank but my Guage has been acting up and it could be lower. Also, when I shut it off the other day I didn't take the time to bleed the air from the system and in the past few days it has slowly lost pressure but ended up leaning to the left quite a bit.

Question: is there a relay that will not allow the engine to even turn over if the fuel level is too low?

Thanks.

Mike Canter · 04-22-2015, 02:15 PM

The answer is NO. What happens to all the dash warning lights when you turn the key to start? Do they go off or stay on? Does the transmission pad show that you are in "N"? Is there any click when you turn the key to start? Have you tried starting it while holding the Battery Boost switch on?

jacwjames · 04-22-2015, 02:56 PM

This happen to me once.

I had been going over everything before a trip, which included changing fuel filters, checking oil, belts etc. When I went to start the coach it wouldn't start but all my lights in the dash were illuminated. I scratched my head and started checking things out. During the process of trying to find the problem I found that I had accidently hit the switch in the engine compartment that allows you to start the coach from the rear.

If you have the rear start switch in the engine compartment make sure it is pushed to start from the front.

broadrun · 04-22-2015, 04:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike Canter

The answer is NO. What happens to all the dash warning lights when you turn the key to start? Do they go off or stay on? Does the transmission pad show that you are in "N"? Is there any click when you turn the key to start? Have you tried starting it while holding the Battery Boost switch on?

The dash lights work fine and when I try to crank it, the low fuel light comes on. It doesn't even make a click when I turn it over. I'll have to double check the batteries tomorrow morning. Thanks.

broadrun · 04-22-2015, 04:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jacwjames

This happen to me once.

I had been going over everything before a trip, which included changing fuel filters, checking oil, belts etc. When I went to start the coach it wouldn't start but all my lights in the dash were illuminated. I scratched my head and started checking things out. During the process of trying to find the problem I found that I had accidently hit the switch in the engine compartment that allows you to start the coach from the rear.

If you have the rear start switch in the engine compartment make sure it is pushed to start from the front.

Not sure if I have the rear start switch. I purchased it used 4 years ago. Where specifically is the switch?

Mike Canter · 04-22-2015, 04:56 PM

You never mentioned if the transmission pad was lighted and showed it was in a neutral. That fact that you idiot lights stay on means your batteries are good as well as the battery cable connections. If the dash warnings went out then it could be the batteries or connections. The reason I ask about the transmission control pad is that if it is not powered then the neutral safety circuit in the transmission will stop it from cranking. If that is ok then I would be highly suspicious of your ignition switch. The ignition switch had been a culprit many times in the past on this forum with indications like yours.

broadrun · 04-22-2015, 07:11 PM

Thanks Mike. I will check it out again and pay attention to the transmission pad this time.

I appreciate your feedback.

jacwjames · 04-23-2015, 08:03 AM

The rear start switch on my coach is mounted on the left side (drivers side) when you are looking from the back of the rig. It is in the engine compartment mounted to the left of a fuel filter. It is has "Front" & "Rear" printed on the switch.

It clearly marked so if you've never seen it you probably don't have one.

broadrun · 04-23-2015, 09:17 AM

Thanks for the tip

broadrun · 04-23-2015, 09:23 AM

Ok, so I have verified that the transmission pad lights up in neutral as expected. I verified I have 13.4 volts on the chassis batteries so they are ok. Sounds like it may be the ignition switch then or maybe the starter solenoid.

I few years ago this happened (can't remember if I heard a click back then when I tried to start it but as I said, this time there is no sound at all) and I jumped from the pos battery post to the starter and it turned over. It has been over two years and this hasn't happened since that time.

If there is no noise when the key is turned could that also be a solenoid problem or do I have an ignition switch problem?

ShapeShifter · 04-23-2015, 10:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by broadrun

If there is no noise when the key is turned could that also be a solenoid problem or do I have an ignition switch problem?

I think it could be either cause. I don't think that not hearing a click is sufficient information to eliminate either one.

Measuring the voltage on the terminals of the starter solenoid would be definitive: if the solenoid gets voltage while trying to crank, and the starter doesn't move, then the problem is in the solenoid or starter.

If the solenoid doesn't get voltage while trying to crank, then the problem is in the ignition switch or the associated wiring.

basically, divide and conquer: measure the voltage at some part of the circuit -- if the required voltage is there, the problem is after that point in the circuit, otherwise it's before that point.

broadrun · 04-23-2015, 12:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ShapeShifter

I think it could be either cause. I don't think that not hearing a click is sufficient information to eliminate either one.

Measuring the voltage on the terminals of the starter solenoid would be definitive: if the solenoid gets voltage while trying to crank, and the starter doesn't move, then the problem is in the solenoid or starter.

If the solenoid doesn't get voltage while trying to crank, then the problem is in the ignition switch or the associated wiring.

basically, divide and conquer: measure the voltage at some part of the circuit -- if the required voltage is there, the problem is after that point in the circuit, otherwise it's before that point.

Roger that ShapeShifter. Thanks.

oldguy70 · 04-23-2015, 06:11 PM

You can check the solenoid by jumping between the battery post on the solenoid and
the connection where the starter wire from the ignition switch hooks on the solenoid.

t55watson · 04-23-2015, 06:20 PM

I have had the same issue and it was the solenoid. Located in the door on the left side under the drivers window. Do NOT use a starter solenoid it will melt the points in 20 minutes. You need a continues duty solenoid. Should be available at any GOOD auto parts dealer.