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Old 11-11-2009, 02:08 PM   #1
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I need help with my Splendide model 2000

We have a 2001 Executive with the Splendide in a hallway cabinet. We have been seeing evidence of water on/and around the rear tire when the washer runs. I originally thought maybe the drain was plugged, causing the water to overflow the drain pipe, spilling into a catch basin and draining outside the rig. Today I took the access panel out of the cabinet and took a look. I am cornfused!! The drain hose is in place and looks good and water hoses are all where they should be. There is a small connection block down in the lower corner with a small hose that leads down to where the rear tire is. What is this? and why does it spill water? There is no mention in the original paperwork for the washer and no picture either. Anybody have and ideas? Humor is appreciated at this point!

Rich
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Old 11-11-2009, 02:31 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mohotravelers View Post
We have a 2001 Executive with the Splendide in a hallway cabinet. We have been seeing evidence of water on/and around the rear tire when the washer runs. I originally thought maybe the drain was plugged, causing the water to overflow the drain pipe, spilling into a catch basin and draining outside the rig. Today I took the access panel out of the cabinet and took a look. I am cornfused!! The drain hose is in place and looks good and water hoses are all where they should be. There is a small connection block down in the lower corner with a small hose that leads down to where the rear tire is. What is this? and why does it spill water? There is no mention in the original paperwork for the washer and no picture either. Anybody have and ideas? Humor is appreciated at this point!

Rich
I had to replace the belt on our Splendide and am familiar with the rear connections. I can't recall any "block" in the corner of the space it is in.
Perhaps you should try running it with the panel off and try and see where the water is coming from.
Ron
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Old 11-11-2009, 04:33 PM   #3
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Manual doesn't show any additional drain. Could it be connected to the overflow pan?
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Old 11-11-2009, 05:07 PM   #4
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Bingo! The overflow plan was what I was seeing. Looks like the bottom of the washer when you are on a chair, folded into a small shelf of a cabinet, with your head tilted full left and rotated 86 degrees and have deteriorating eyesight!!! I guess I will have to pull the unit and find what is leaking. Oh joy. I bet it is not light either......:(
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Old 11-11-2009, 05:09 PM   #5
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My guess too is that it may be from the drain pan, which my Spendide does not have ...the info below is from a Spendide sales site. Water coming from the drain pan drain would indicate a leak somewhere in the washer.

Drain-a-way Pan
An optional ( Not included in base unit) drain a-way pan provides you with the extra assurance of having a plumbed drain pan under your unit. It includes a removable face for use under built-in machines. It is 22" square and comes ready to be plumbed.
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Old 11-11-2009, 05:12 PM   #6
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I do not know if your model has a trap. One of our Splendides had a screw on trap, it is to catch things that might go down and block the pump. In our case the trap was full of lint and the added back pressure on the drain caused it to leak at the joint where it screws on.

Look at your manual and see if it has a removable trap. The second time it leaked, my DW removed the trap to clean it and did not get it back on tight.
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Old 11-11-2009, 05:22 PM   #7
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Found a manual that shows the pump trap I am referring to and how to get at it. Look at page 17. When you take the panel off, you can tell if it's leaking there.

http://www.splendide.com/manual_wd2100_2000s.pdf

Hope this helps

• To gain access, gently ease down the top of the toe-kick
panel (at the base of the front of the machine) with a
screwdriver or similar item to release it. Then ease the top
edge forward to allow it to be lifted clear (Fig.13).
• Place a shallow dish or tray below the cover of the prechamber
to catch the small amount of water present.
Release the cover by turning counter-clockwise (Fig 14).
Remove any items or debris.
• Securely replace the cover by turning clockwise. Refit the
toe-kick panel by inserting the hooks on its lower edge into the slots and ease the top edge back into position.

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Old 11-12-2009, 01:14 AM   #8
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IMPORTANT: The suds level should never rise more than
half way up to the porthole. Too much foam will rise through
the detergent dispenser and make a mess on your floor!


Very common for leeks on floor

1-2 tablespoons of any powder laundry detergent (or liquid
equiv.) per wash load. However, if you have access to them, lowsudsing,
high efficiency (HE) detergents are designed for use in frontloading
machines and are recommended.


Adjust the amount for heavily or lightly soiled loads. Use more if water is
extremely hard - use less in soft water. If garments have been
pretreated, you won

t need as much (or any) detergent at all.


Your machine features an internal foam removal system, however, if the
suds level rises too high, set the Program Selector knob (A) to

Rinse
and allow the machine to rinse out.
Rich


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Old 11-12-2009, 10:39 AM   #9
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Thank you all very much . I removed the machine in about 10 minutes. When I laid it on it's side to get a look underneath I found a panel to remove with 4 screws. That being done it took 10 seconds to see a leaking water pump staring me in the face. Bad seal on the main shaft. New one is ordered and should be here Monday. There are several positives to this whole exercise. The small filter screens on the water hose inlets were plugged about 80% on the hot side and 5% on the cold side. Could be why it took forever to fill . The exhaust duct to the outside vent had lint trapped in the accordion folds. I would estimate at 75% clogged which would be why it took a long time to dry and I feel lucky there was no lint fire . There really is no lint trap on this thing that I can find. I guess it should just be on the yearly maintenance list of things we really should do. Every two years at the very longest if you use the machine often. A big to all who contributed. Travel safe and keep smiling. Rich
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Old 11-12-2009, 10:50 AM   #10
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Hi Rich, Glad you found your problem.
Was there any trick or special method for removing the Unit? I have a 2001 Dynasty, it should be able to move out from the cabinet the same as yours.
I had a water leak but I assumed it was too much detergent, but I did think about other possibilities. My problem might be the same as yours.
How much was the new pump?
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Old 11-12-2009, 11:18 AM   #11
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Barrier,

The trick is being a contortionist! LOL. Turn off the water to the coach and drain off the pressure from the accumulator tank by opening any sink faucet. Once the pressure is gone, then go to the plumbing manifold and turn off the washing machine hot and cold lines. Next I was able to access the rear connections through the bottom shelf of the cabinet above. 1 plug, 2 hoses ( which will need new washers so have them ready), a large hose clamp holding the flexible duct work and the drain hose which snapped into a holder mounted on the wall. Next I took the cabinet doors off and the latches to provide maximum room. Mine had a drain pan with a removable front panel. Two screws for the carpet covered trim panel and 3 screws for the front of the drain pan. This, by the way, is sealed with butyl tape for a watertight seal and you will need to do the same. You can pick up a roll at an rv repair store. At this point it just slid right out the front of the cabinet. I put it on a small throw rug that would slide easily on the tile and pushed it to the kitchen where there is more room. There is a seal kit for 16.00 which they told me works 50% of the time or a new pump @125.00 + shppg. Well I had played with the pump already and could see where the diaphragm is changeable but I could not remove the plastic impeller from the shaft so I opted for a new pump. I envisioned the frustration of putting it all back together only to have it leak again. No way Jose. Gimme the new pump. The number to order is 1-800-356-0766. Westland Sales. Good luck and let me know if you have any problems. Rich
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Old 11-12-2009, 11:28 AM   #12
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Splendide

Thanks Rich, I am going to try it again with less soap first.
I am pretty sure that the hose screens and vent screen need to be cleaned even if the pump is not leaking. I am going to clean them first. I have already removed that carpet covered rail and bought the butyl tape. Do you think the hoses and vents can be cleaned through the shelf you mentioned, is there room?
thanks
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Old 11-12-2009, 11:39 AM   #13
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Rich,

Does your washer have a rubber hose connection or a PEX pipe connection? If you have the PEX pipe connection and need to replace the cone washers that can be a real challenge in itself. I searched all over the place before I found them. The PEX connection replacement washers are distributed by Lincoln Products (located in Industry, CA) and the part number 129220; 27/32 OD X 5/8 ID by 9/32 high cone washer. (UPC 054374075300) I found them in a True Value hardware store in Chino, CA.

We had exactly the same leak you had only ours was more than a little water. Like your situation, there was no getting the impeller off the shaft and why take a chance that it would not fix the problem. Our washer works like a champ now.

Bob
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Old 11-12-2009, 11:40 AM   #14
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Yes, by sliding the machine out a few inches you can access most of the parts. The screens on the hose inlets just pull straight out. There is a small tab that you grab with a pair of needle nose pliers. The duct will come off easily for cleaning. I went a step further as the interior rubber duct was dirty too. You have to get that through the top of the machine though.
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