Go Back   iRV2 Forums > THE OWNER'S CORNER FORUMS > Monaco Owner's Forum
Join iRV2 Today

Mission Statement: Supporting thoughtful exchange of knowledge, values and experience among RV enthusiasts.
Reply
  This discussion is proudly sponsored by:
Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about their products on iRV2
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 11-02-2009, 07:23 PM   #1
Senior Member
 
digNbubbs's Avatar
 
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 487
Ice Maker Troubleshooting

Its a crisis - the ice maker has stopped functioning!! Luckily we had a few cubes left for happy hour tonight, but to avoid another crisis tomorrow night, I need to resolve this!!

My problem is in the "no water in the ice maker" category. For troubleshooting, I first defrosted the freezer to make sure nothing was stuck. Next I checked the water supply valve behind the fridge. There was water on the supply side, but none coming out of the valve. Next I jumpered the valve solenoid and got water flowing by connecting 120v to the valve.

I have the ice maker removed from the freezer, and after reading a few posts here, I am leaning towards testing the thermal switch that connects to the back of the ice maker next. It is an inline thermal cutout that is in the wiring harness that goes into the ice maker. I read a post on here that it is recommended to replace the entire harness if that thermal is bad, but I don't see that happening.

I would like to test this component next, but am not real sure how to do that without tearing it up. It appears to be covered in a thick shrink tubing. Any thoughts on how to easily test this? Anyone know where this wire goes to? Any other thoughts for troubleshooting? I read a post that mentioned a troubleshooting manual for download that allowed testing of certain points on the ice maker. Link to that?

This is for a Norcold 1200LRIM 4-door. 120v at the wiring harness going into the icemaker. Water supply solenoid functional when jumped. 45+ psi shore-supplied water pressure. Fully defrosted. Warm cocktails.

Any help muchly appreciated. Of course I have pictures that I will post up a bit later


--kevin
__________________

__________________
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

2006 Monaco Knight 40PLQ | 2011 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon Unlimited
digNbubbs is offline   Reply With Quote
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!

iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!

Old 11-02-2009, 07:37 PM   #2
a k
Registered User
 
Newmar Owners Club
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,142
Try this

http://www.gasrefrigeration.net/nor_...00_621823d.pdf


You did have the arm down didn't you?
__________________

__________________
a k is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-02-2009, 07:39 PM   #3
Senior Member
 
tmar10's Avatar
 
Fleetwood Owners Club
Appalachian Campers
Ford Super Duty Owner
Carolina Campers
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Four Oaks, NC
Posts: 502
Maybe this will help some:

http://bec-ed.com/Bounder/1200SM.pdf

http://bec-ed.com/Bounder/1210NorcoldParts.pdf

Look at page 59.
__________________
Thomas & Betty w/Bailey & Gypsy (our fur-bearing masters)
07 Bounder 35e (F53)
07 Nissan Frontier or 2010 FLSTC toad
tmar10 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-02-2009, 08:11 PM   #4
Senior Member
 
digNbubbs's Avatar
 
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 487
Thanks for the links. Looks like http://bec-ed.com/Bounder/1200SM.pdf will be the most help right now. It has full troubleshooting steps.

a k: Yes, first thing I checked. Then I stuck my hand into the cube tray and found there was no water in there. It seemed like once the last batch was done, it just didn't refill, which I found odd.

Thanks again to the both of you for the links. I appreciate the help.

--kevin
__________________
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

2006 Monaco Knight 40PLQ | 2011 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon Unlimited
digNbubbs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-03-2009, 12:06 AM   #5
R&J
Senior Member
 
R&J's Avatar


 
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Milwaukie, Oregon
Posts: 149
Try the two test on page 64.
Test1. T to H leave jumper in for 30 sec now look and see if the large white gear is turning? if yes your therm-inline fuse is good. Pull jumper and let it cycle through. As the finger come around back to 12:00 listen for the solenoid buss at the water valve.
The coil only gets about 84 volt to open not a full 120 volts, it's wire in series through the heater dropping the voltage. A weak coil wont left the plunger in the valve, but 120 volt will.

Test 2. Will cause the coil to open through the heater.

The mold thermo rarely fail and it only start the cycle. When the mold temp is cold enough ?5F degree.
__________________
Rich & Joan + Zach Parti Miniature Schnauzer
2006 Beaver Monterey
2004 Monaco Cayman
R&J is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-03-2009, 09:56 AM   #6
Senior Member
 
Damon Owners Club
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 16,019
I have often described the sequence on an ice maker, Perhaps I should boiler plate it.. First, far as I know both Dometic and Norcold use U-Line ice makers,, so this is the U-Line sequience

When the ice tray gets cold enough (I think 25F but am not sure) the thermostat closes, the timer motor starts and the gears turn.. As the gear turns a cam closes a switch which bypasses the T-Stat, the U-Shaped heater comes on (With the motor) and a cam raises the wire bail.. The "Fingers" turn down and press against the ice cubes.. When this happens the motor stalls out (normal so don't worry about it) till the heater melts the ice where it contacts the tray.. Then the motor continues to run and the fingers push the ice cresents out of the tray THe cresents will either fall off the fingers or be scraped off by other fingers.....later

Once the ice is out of the tray a cam closes a switch sending power (Far as I know the full 120 volts) to the solenoid. This switch is adjustable (The screw with teh +/- markings under the front cover) so as to compensate for differing water pressures.

possible issues and solutions:
#1 is TEMP, both Suspect #1 and 1st thing that can go wrong. If it does not get cold enough, it won't start the cycle. To test, Use a thermometer.

T-Stat. failure is rare but can happen.. To test Manually start cycle

IN theory the switches or motor could go bad. again, manually start cycle

The solenoid can fail (you already tested that)

And finally Suspect #2 is the water lines to the ice tray, A small amount of water clings to the line every time it fills the tray, This freezes and eventually blocks the line, completely.. DEFROSTING is the cure. but... It is NOT the test

To test.. Take the "outlet" line (the line to the freezer) off the solenoid and blow through it.. If you can't. DEFROST again, and keep it in DEFROST mode till you can blow through the line.

NOTE: most of the issues are best fixed by replacement.. A new unit today costs less than the blanged solenoid.
__________________
Home is where I park it!
wa8yxm is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-03-2009, 10:07 AM   #7
a k
Registered User
 
Newmar Owners Club
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,142
About $85 bucks wholesale
__________________
a k is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-03-2009, 10:24 AM   #8
Member
 
Scott Rafuse's Avatar
 
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 57
Have you checked that you have A/C power to the ice maker. I thought I had a problem with mine but discovered that some of my power outlets ( the ice maker being one of them) were not working. I found that one of the breakers had popped and would not reset. Then I used and extension cord to power the ice maker and all was good.
__________________
Scott & Cindy Rafuse
2007 Camelot 40 PDQ
2007 Toyota Tacoma crew cab 4x4
Scott Rafuse is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-04-2009, 10:27 AM   #9
Senior Member
 
digNbubbs's Avatar
 
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 487
Thanks for all the feedback and suggestions. I am pleased to report that I once again have ice

Last night I ran through all of the diagnostic tests listed in this document - http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/ncoldicemaker.pdf To my surprise, all of the tests passed. Correct voltage and resistance was found at all of the test points listed. When I ran it through the "Testing Motor and Cycle Function" and "Water Valve Check" tests, a bit of water came out of the line (I had turned supply off to the coach for the tests).

Once it passed all of the tests, I put the ice maker back together and re-installed. Not really sure what to do next, I took a cup and filled the mold with water. A little while later I heard the familiar drop of frozen love into the bucket. I checked the mold in a few minutes after that and found it full of water, freezing up the next batch of cubes.

I'm still not sure what to attribute the initial failure to, but I feel it probably had to do with the supply valve. The reason I think this is because when I first figured out that no ice was being produced, I felt the mold and found it to be dry. The first thing I checked was supply to the solenoid and it was fine.

Next time this happens, I think I will start with "priming" the mold with some water to see if it will cycle through and try to fill again. If that doesn't work, I will jumper the solenoid briefly to see if I can get it to manually fill, and to assure water can flow into the mold. THEN I will pull it all apart and run through the testing procedures.

Thanks again for all of the input. It was all very helpful.


kevin
__________________
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

2006 Monaco Knight 40PLQ | 2011 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon Unlimited
digNbubbs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-06-2009, 09:36 AM   #10
Senior Member
 
Damon Owners Club
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 16,019
Recall on my list I mentioned that the thing has a thermostat that has to get down to something like 25 degrgees

My guess is it was around 27 in the freezer when it was not working so it never got cold enough. Happens sometimes, epically if it's very cold out.

If you have a LAT (low Ambient Temperature) switch. Try turning it on if it happens again

This switch turns on the refrigerator light, adding heat, which causes the refrigerator to run more, which makes the freezer colder.
__________________

__________________
Home is where I park it!
wa8yxm is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Ice ball on ice maker yudamann Tiffin Motorhomes Owners Forum 2 10-06-2009 07:03 PM
Ice Maker Problem Jmyers Monaco Owner's Forum 5 09-10-2009 04:44 PM
Ice Maker - Easy Fix glennb100 Monaco Owner's Forum 0 04-14-2009 09:10 AM
Ice Maker doesn't Make Ice Darrell & Mel RV Systems & Appliances 12 07-10-2007 02:55 PM
Ice maker no go! Vette Racer Toy Haulers Discussion 57 06-30-2005 07:10 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 06:14 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.