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Old 12-10-2018, 12:51 PM   #1
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Inside Step Cover & Map Light not working

Hi Folks!

Are there any common issues with the internal step cover and map light? Both are on rocker switches next to the passenger seat. Neither works although I have seen the step cover work intermittently.

Does the key need to be on for it to work or am I missing something?
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Old 12-10-2018, 01:29 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BobJones View Post
Hi Folks!

Are there any common issues with the internal step cover and map light? Both are on rocker switches next to the passenger seat. Neither works although I have seen the step cover work intermittently.

Does the key need to be on for it to work or am I missing something?
My coach, key off or on, doesn't matter.

Check the light bulb on the map light.

My step cover sometimes will stall out when not exercised often. I keep it lubed, but still sometimes finicky.
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Old 12-10-2018, 04:16 PM   #3
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It's an odd one. I ran it the other day and the step cover closed. It seems to be intermittent with the vast majority of the time not working. (this is the inside step cover btw)
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Old 12-10-2018, 04:24 PM   #4
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Is the step cover air or electric -- Bill Willard
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Old 12-10-2018, 04:26 PM   #5
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Is the step cover air or electric -- Bill Willard
That I don't know. But if it was air operated wouldn't that mean that if the tanks were empty it would not work? If so, that might be it. The times I have seen it work were all when the engine was running.
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Old 12-10-2018, 04:26 PM   #6
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I know on mine, the cover doesn't have any limit switches. When the cover reaches either full in or full out, the resistance turns the motor off (think re-setable circuit breaker). If the motor is weak or anything binds up, it is going to turn off before it should.

Now I'm assuming you're is electric like mine. If it's air, all bets are off. Did they even put air actuated step covers in the Dip's in any year?
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Old 12-10-2018, 07:33 PM   #7
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I just looked more closely at it and it seems I can manually pull it out. So I grabbed a flashlight and looked underneath and it seems there is what looks like a hydraulic cylinder with a hose going to it.

Methinks that may mean it is air powered!
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Old 12-11-2018, 12:09 PM   #8
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If it’s air driven there should be two air lines leading to a valve probably located on the firewall. Ours is only visible from underneath near the steps.
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Old 12-11-2018, 12:48 PM   #9
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I found this by the genset - not sure if it's what we're looking for?
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Old 12-11-2018, 01:33 PM   #10
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That looks to be it. You can buy a replacement thru NW RV supply. Some have been able to flush it out with success. There have been previous posts about it. I would check the electrical side first for power when switched.
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Old 12-11-2018, 01:34 PM   #11
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That looks to be it. You can buy a replacement thru NW RV supply. Some have been able to flush it out with success. There have been previous posts about it. I would check the electrical side first for power when switched.
Will do. I also have an ultrasonic cleaner so if they can be cleaned I bet that would do it.
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Old 12-11-2018, 04:27 PM   #12
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Hi Bob; Those pictures you posted are of the Mac valve that is air pressure operated from your air tanks. On my previous 2000 Monaco Windsor. the step worked with out the ing. key on. Any time you hit the switch for in or out, if you had air pressure in the tanks, the step was operational. Those Mac valves can get some rust particles in the valve from the air tanks and will not operate correctly. On the side of the valve are 2 small screws that regulate the amount of air that flows through the valve to operate the air cylinder under the step. Mine step will not operate properly sometimes. It will extend, but not retract. I have to run those adjustment screws all the way to the full open position and toggle the switch from retract to extend a number of times to blow the dirt out of the valve. If you do this, have someone at the step to slow down the speed of the step on the extend cycle as the steep goes at high rate of speed and slams into the stop at the end of the step. After you get the valve cleared out you can run those adjustment screws in to slow down the rate of extend and retract. After I get all the crud out of the Mac valve I run the adjustment screws all the way in and then back out by just 1 revolution. This gives you a starting place for adjustment of the amount of air flowing through the valve so the step moves in and out at a not so lighting speed. Hope this info helps. Also I have read here that other owners who have had problems with the air cylinder under the step not operating properly have had to introduce some WD-40 into the lines to lube the O-Rings in the air cylinder. I personal have never had to do this as the air cylinder has never leaked air.
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Old 12-11-2018, 09:42 PM   #13
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Thanks Oilbuner - I get it and it's appreciated!

I should be able to find time tomorrow to remove it and possibly clean it. I will check it first to be sure the switch is working but I suspect it's as you said - dirty inside.

I'll post back with pics on how I approached it and what the outcome was
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Old 12-19-2018, 03:41 PM   #14
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Interesting....very, very interesting.

I went out today to pull that valve off the firewall and when I did I noticed that it was warm to the touch......(it's cold outside).

So I went inside and checked the switch, it was/is turned off.....

Yet, the solenoid, or more specifically the relay (?) on the bottom of it was warm...

Now here's the thing. For years now I've had to always charge the starting batteries on a more then regular basis. So I've been wondering whether the batteries are bad or if there was something drawing power from the batteries when off...

I bet that solenoid/relay is probably powered off the starting batteries. If so, then I may also have found my parasitic draw that requires me to charge the batteries every week for the better part of the day!

If that is indeed a relay, my guess is that it's contacts are stuck. Anyway, it's probably going in the ultrasonic cleaner today and we'll see what happens.
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