Intellitec B.I.R.D. and alternator question.

[FixerCQI]

Originally Posted by distaff

I put the new batteries in and wanted to check the B.I.R.D. and BigBoy were working properly, so I checked the voltages on both banks of batteries before I reconnected to shore power (to trigger the B.I.R.D.) with the expectation that I would hear the BigBoy close and see the voltages equalize.

Got a surprise when I checked them - the new chassis batteries were at 12.3V (to be expected) but the house batteries were at 15.7 volts.

I checked twice I was so surprised, then realized that while the house batteries were cut off from shore power, they were connected to the solar panels. Checked the Aladdin system and it confirmed that the solar was generating 20 to 25 volts, and the Heliotrope controller was passing on 15.5 volts to the batteries.

Well I'm replacing the solar controller next since it is going to boil my batteries.

The B.I.R.D. and BigBoy worked fine.

I think you were measuring the sol gen output there. Connect to shore again or open the isolation switch if available and then check your batt voltage.

[distaff]

Originally Posted by wa8yxm

One nice thing about the BIRD.. You loose engine alternator.. FIre up ye old ONAN and let the converter keep your rolling, rolling, rolling to the repair shop. NO need for a TOW TRUCK.

That is how I got from Ritzville to the KOA in Spokane, and then over to the Cat dealer.

[distaff]

A couple of details about the solar regulator - I have three panels, two new ones and the original factory panel. Combined they can put out about 12 amps, enough to stay ahead of the fridge on a sunny day, so boiling batteries is a real risk.

The 15.7 volts was not a surface charge or the batteries at all, it was the solar controller output, and I don't think the old Heliotrope unit has an adjustment, in any case the manual is long gone as is the company.

I did have a surface charge on the starter batteries, which is why they showed 12 but collapsed to 7.8 when a small load was introduced, which is why I replaced them.

[CountryB]

i have manuals for the RV45D. Maybe you have the same system. Here they are

[FixerCQI]

Originally Posted by distaff

A couple of details about the solar regulator - I have three panels, two new ones and the original factory panel. Combined they can put out about 12 amps, enough to stay ahead of the fridge on a sunny day, so boiling batteries is a real risk.

The 15.7 volts was not a surface charge or the batteries at all, it was the solar controller output, and I don't think the old Heliotrope unit has an adjustment, in any case the manual is long gone as is the company.

I did have a surface charge on the starter batteries, which is why they showed 12 but collapsed to 7.8 when a small load was introduced, which is why I replaced them.

I don't think you guys should have to worry about over charging the batteries. The sophistication of the controller that is in the solar system should be supplying amps only as required. They use pulse charge logic when charging the house batt and I think they charge the two batts on separate circuits and use some other logic to prevent overcharging the chassis batt . I don't think the bird and bigboy are utilized on solar. Please don't take this as gospel, I don't have solar. The Heliotrope may be adjustable for voltage using dip switches but I would think it would come set OK from the factory (RV)

[FixerCQI]

Originally Posted by distaff

That is how I got from Ritzville to the KOA in Spokane, and then over to the Cat dealer.

Glad to finally hear from someone that this is possible.

[distaff]

Originally Posted by FixerCQI

I don't think you guys should have to worry about over charging the batteries. The sophistication of the controller that is in the solar system should be supplying amps only as required. They use pulse charge logic when charging the house batt and I think they charge the two batts on separate circuits and use some other logic to prevent overcharging the chassis batt . I don't think the bird and bigboy are utilized on solar. Please don't take this as gospel, I don't have solar. The Heliotrope may be adjustable for voltage using dip switches but I would think it would come set OK from the factory (RV)

The B.I.R.D. doesn't really know if the voltage supplied to the house batteries is from the solar or the inverter. I've heard and seen it close the BigBoy when the solar was on but no shore or gen power was present. I have two big panels, I don't think it ever did this with the dinky little factory panel, but I can't be positive.

I could tell the solar controller was pushing quite a few amps the other day - the Aladdin provides that info.

[distaff]

Originally Posted by FixerCQI

Glad to finally hear from someone that this is possible.

Didn't plan on being the guinea pig, but happy to share a successful outcome.

[distaff]

Originally Posted by CountryB

i have manuals for the RV45D. Maybe you have the same system. Here they are

Thanks Mike, those are the manuals. No setting to keep the voltage up at 15.7!

[distaff]

Pulled the Heliotrope off and it was damaged - one diode was clearly burnt. Put a new EWS 30 regulator on and it is charging at 14.8 volts.

[Vanwill]

For those of you that are technically able to evaluate an alternative solution to the whole BIRD installation, and/or have the earlier coaches with a Solid-State isolator, Big Boy relay, and possibly a Lambert chassis battery charger---look at the Blue Sea ML-ACR. It is a $175 device that replaces all three of these components, and is (IMHO) a uniquely simple solution to a problem that seems to perplex any number of owners. It offers simple operation, a remote control that lets you override all automatic functions and select "Manually join both battery banks", "Manually disconnect both battery banks" or run in "Automatic" mode, which connects both battery banks whenever a charging voltage is present, AND it gives a positive visual verification of what state the ML-ACR is presently connected. When no charging voltage is present, it disconnects the two battery banks, and the chassis battery is isolated from coach loads.

For $175, you can even afford to carry a spare in your toolkit.

Blue Sea has a sterling reputation in the marine field, and the device comes with NO warranty card. The documentation simply states, "We stand behind this device for as long as you own it."

[twinboat]

Another device to replace the mult-peice BIRD system is the Yandina 600 Amp Combiner.

It has an unlimited warrantee and it has voltage sensing provisions for using different chemistry ( Flooded and AGM ) batteries in chassis and house banks.

You remove your big boy or other brand of solenoid, attach the large cables to this and one small ground wire, for standard operation. If your solenoid is between copper bus bars, you disable it and use short cables from both sides of it, to this.

If you want the boost function, you find the wire from your dash switch, on your old device, and move it to this one.

I've not used the 600 amp model, or have any connection to the company, but have been using 2 of the smaller models for 10 trouble free years.

https://www.yandina.com/c600Info.htm

[distaff]

Van and twinboat - I've contemplated this and may do it. I am not satisfied with the B.I.R.D./BigBoy combination, and how it interacts with the solar system.

I'd actually like to see one system handle all three in a rational way. As it stood I connected to the old Heliotrope to both banks of batteries so I could disconnect the batteries but still have a maintenance charge to them. I have enough draws that if I didn't it would kill the chassis batteries in 48 hours, and I could never trust the B.I.R.D. and BigBoy to work to keep the chassis batteries charged if there was a charge from the solar.

Over he years I have had a lot of issues with the current system - the cheap relay that connected the B.I.R.D. system and the boost switch to the BigBoy died - disabling the whole system, then the BigBoy got dirty - disabling the whole thing, then I had a bad temp sensor at the batteries to fail, causing the inverter to put out a lower float charging voltage in response to what it saw as a very high battery temperature, and this prevented the B.I.R.D. from triggering the BigBoy to charge the chassis batteries - so they discharged.

A better designed system would help.

[pwhittle]

I had a Blue Sea ML-ACR on our 1994 Signature. It replaced the diode isolator and the battery boost relay.

First sign of trouble on our 2005 Signature, I’ll put one on it too!

Blue Sea 7622 ML-Series Heavy Duty Automatic Charging Relay Marine , Boating Equipment by Blue Sea Systems Blue Sea 7622 ML-Series Heavy Duty Automatic Charging Relay Marine , Boating Equipment
by Blue Sea Systems
Link: http://a.co/0RLnOOV