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Old 12-07-2017, 06:52 AM   #1
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Is the Accessory terminal on the Ignition switch Hot when the Key is in Run position?

I have a 2005 Monaco-Beaver (which uses a standard GM ignition switch)

I want to install my Rand McNally OverDryve 7 (Navigation sys/Media player) device so that I can have it powered On when the key is in the Accessory position and when the key is in the On/Run position.

I am thinking of connecting it directly (fused) the Ignition key switch "Accessory" terminal (which is not too hard to get to). I am hoping that the Accessory terminal on the Ignition switch stays hot when the Key is in On/Run position.

Does anyone know?

I'm just planning this job in my head now.
I will check the ignition switch with my meter when I can - but I thought I'd just ask here in the mean time. Maybe someone has a better idea/way to connect this device.
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Old 12-07-2017, 07:32 AM   #2
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Yes, the accessory terminal is hot when in run position.
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Old 12-21-2017, 02:23 AM   #3
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And NO its not hot when on Accessary at lease mine isn't but its on my list to be done!!!
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Old 12-21-2017, 02:26 PM   #4
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I can now confirm that on my '05 Beaver, the Accessory terminal is hot when the ignition is On.

I wired my TPS and my new "Rand Mcnally OverDryve 7 RV" system to the Accessory terminal so I could use OverDryve to listen to music and do other stuff with it when the engine is not running (key in ACC) then when I start the engine (key in ON) that equipment still has power to it and continues to run.

Thanks for your response.
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Old 12-21-2017, 04:22 PM   #5
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Ditto, accessory terminal should be hot when ignition is in on position, ignition should not have power when in accessory position.
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Old 12-21-2017, 04:28 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Outbound View Post
Ditto, accessory terminal should be hot when ignition is in on position, ignition should not have power when in accessory position.
Yep.
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Old 12-21-2017, 06:14 PM   #7
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Don't connect to the key-switch itself. Instead find an unused accessory lead under the dash to use. There is a relay and some protective devices (fuses!) that connecting to the key-switch itself bypasses and that's not good.
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Old 12-22-2017, 04:25 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by nehog View Post
Don't connect to the key-switch itself. Instead find an unused accessory lead under the dash to use. There is a relay and some protective devices (fuses!) that connecting to the key-switch itself bypasses and that's not good.
I have one wire coming off the ACC terminal of the ignition switch. I spliced into that wire. Then I ran that short wire (about 8") to a 10A stud-terminal circuit breaker that I mounted to the plywood shelf/structure under the dash, and came off of that for the two devices (with also have in-line fuses). The total amp draw of both devices is under 5A.

Thanks for your reply.
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**Beaver History/Info/Chassis/Suspsn https://1drv.ms/f/s!AtvAXw_lfqbToxXYREK9YdBP08Jn
**Bvr/Mnco Wiring Diagrams (84-09):https://1drv.ms/f/s!AtvAXw_lfqbTm0WTuuNqpn9a8hCh
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Old 12-22-2017, 04:52 AM   #9
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That 'should' work, but adding a relay to that ACC lead and then tapping your load from it will reduce the current draw thru the switch itself - and likely increase its life.

Way back when, we'd add relays like they were going out of style in car audio mods. It was amazing the current some amps would draw.
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