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02-01-2012, 12:27 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Fleetwood Owners Club
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Burlington, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 219
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Just two quick points that might influence your thinking. When the engine is first started and the alternator starts producing juice, the chassis battery(s) will almost always be given priority over the house batteries. Depending on how low the chassis battery is it will receive charging for some time before the house batteries get included in the deal. I'm pretty confident that this is somewhat standard in the Industry but I can't state for sure. I became so concerned about this issue, after being literally stranded one time, that I took my own action. I had a Mechanic install one 12v AGM high cranking amps battery, in a separate location from the others (there was a well just above where the entry steps folded into), with an isolater to keep it from feeding back into the rest of the system. This battery was dedicated to starting the generator, nothing else whatsoever. It was charged directly bythe alternator, and the generator, and shore power and it ensured that I could not ever again find myself with no power. You know, it really only takes a battery about the size of what you'd find in a riding mower to start the generator anyway. I considered this pretty cheap and reliable insurance?
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Tony & Yolanda / Katie & Spencer (the Doodles)
2011 Fleetwood Revolution 42W (450/1250)
2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee (Diesel) behind
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02-01-2012, 01:15 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Solo Rvers Club Fleetwood Owners Club
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Lancaster, California
Posts: 379
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I use a jumper cable as descibed. Just remember to disconnect it when you are dry camping, so you don't drain the chassis start battery along with the coach batts. Otherwise, I just leave it in place al the time.
Keeps all my batts topped up while on shore power, or driving.
This spring, I am going to make it permanent with a switch on the dash for dry camping disconnect.
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Fulltime livin' & lovin' it in a '94 Bounder 32h. Chevy V-8 41k miles and like new
Retire in 3yrs. 2mo. , but who's counting
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02-01-2012, 02:07 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner Damon Owners Club
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 8,078
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Thought I had answered in this thread.. The major drawback, unless you use either a very heavy cable or some form of overload protection is best explained by Mac the Fire Guy.
Yes, his buddies still make house calls, both stick and brick, and motor home
Imagine if you will the ground lead on the chassis battery is bad.. so there is no ground there. now you have nice BIG!! house batteries and they still have a good ground,, You have a fairly light weight jumper (Starter current wise) joining the chassis and house positives.
You turn the key to start, and start,,, the wire does, a fire,
With the Trick-L-Start or Echo Charger or a Bi Directional Isolator. no such issues.
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Home is where I park it!
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02-01-2012, 03:15 PM
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#18
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Bellevue, Wash.
Posts: 79
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Also, look at the Magnum Smart Combiner. Less expensive than the Echo Charger and I think more reliable as well as a higher charge rate.
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John
05 Country Coach Inspire 40'
2010 Ford Escape
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02-01-2012, 11:08 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Signal Hill, California
Posts: 633
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I was advised to run my solar charge wire to my coach batteries. I was told that the "trickle-charger" unit would bleed off amperage to the chassis batteries. deSanford
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Sanford, Linda & R cats: Molly, Levi, Cody
2011 Navastar Monaco Cayman 
2002 Mini Cooper:goes where it's towed
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