Community Forums

ImagineIF · 01-05-2012, 05:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CA Traveler

LCI called today and they need 2-3 days to build my new pump. They indicated several times that installation labor is not included. I paid for 3 day shipping.

I don't expect any issues with installing the pump. All of the base wiring is connected by a MF connector. So as I see it - Clean everything, mark everything, take pictures, turn off power, remove heavy positive and negative wires, disconnect the wiring plug, remove 8 hoses, bring the unit to the garage, transfer the wiring and then reverse the foregoing. The LCI manual indicates that the air will be purged with about 3 cycles of the slides.

However any tips, etc from you guys will be much appreciated.

I'm a happy camper.

The new pump will come with the wiring harness.

CA Traveler · 01-05-2012, 06:06 PM

Wow - the wiring harness and connector are common to LCI and not unique to LCI? That's good news!

deSanford · 01-05-2012, 07:21 PM

OK does that mean that I have the new "pump" motor that just needed the new SHAFT to make a decent unit? Very interesting........

CA Traveler · 01-06-2012, 04:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CA Traveler

Wow - the wiring harness and connector are common to LCI and not unique to LCI? That's good news!

Meant to say not unique to Monaco.

jtjayne · 01-17-2012, 05:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ImagineIF

All 3 LCI pumps that have been in my RV had the allen socket. Yes, I have had 3 pumps. The second began leaking pretty quickly. I really like the new design -- tank and mount.

When did LCI make the new seal available and do you have the part number?

Hi Gill
I now have a leak in my lippert hydraulic slide-out pump. Mine says model 645263, which Lippert says cross references to their part #163811. The leak is into the motor, and I can see BLACK ATF oozing out where the motor mates up with the Manifold, as well as in a small reservoir the end of the motor (where the 1/4" hex receptical is SUPPOSED to be to do a manual override.) However, there is NO 1/4" receptical there, only a right handed nut on a shaft! Any thoughts on how I'm supposed to do a manual slide retraction?

Also, Lippert sent me a diagram of the assembly they say is my model # 645263 . They quoted me a price of $599 for the whole thing. It includes the motor, manifold and resrervoir. But their assembly only has the smaller "lower" manifold with 2 hydraulic in/out holes on the top. They say Beaver(Monaco) installed the larger manifold on top of the Lippert OEM manifold that then allows the pump assembly to control 2 slide out rooms plus a generator tray in my 09 Beaver Contessa (a total of 5 rams ... 10 hydraulic lines). Does this sound right to you? That I would have to move the larger manifold from my current assembly to a new assembly from Lippert?

Jerry Jayne 312-576-1048 jjayne@attglobal.net

CA Traveler · 01-17-2012, 06:16 PM

Once it starts to leak get it fixed ASAP.

"However, there is NO 1/4" receptical there, only a right handed nut on a shaft!"

Yup, exactly my situation, no hex hole to insert a hex wrench as indicated by the manual. Instead a right handed nut on a shaft to be turned CCW and of course the nut came off with the slides still extended.

I jamed a bolt into the nut and was able to get it to turn enough to bring in the slides.

I pleaded my case to LCI about this design problem and the leak which caused the motor to fail and I give them a lot of credit for replacing the pump. LCI made it clear they would not pay for replacement which I did myself in about 3 hours.

The new pump is a better design with a supported tank and the motor is quiet compared to the old unit.

There have been posts about the new design and here is a picture showing the 8 hydraulic hose connections for the 2 slides.

ImagineIF · 01-18-2012, 08:09 PM

The one CA TRAVLER received looks like the last LCI sent me. I didn't check to see if it has the hex fitting on the motor end. The tank and support redesigns are very good.

The LCI replaced unit had all 10 hose connections. I don't know what changed at LCI for them to say you need to reuse your manifold. BTW, before they replaced mine the first time they said replacement price would be $1200, if I recall right.

Gil

bobinaz123 · 02-20-2012, 03:13 PM

Chalk up one more leaky Lipper pump. I reported last week on another tread that my second pump failed the same as the first. I'll contact Lipper tomorrow and plead my case again for a new pump. In the mean time I'm disassembling the replacement pump to find the leak. The motor was full of oil but the seal didn't look bad to me. This time the seal had a "C" keeper holding the seal in place. I don't think the first pump had this keeper. The replacement lasted about 18 months.

I did replace the seal in the first pump 18 months ago in hopes I'd have a spare. I tried it and it doesn't work. I must have done something wrong when I reassembled it, or the motor may be bad. I'll trouble shoot it later.

If others have done this seal replacement, please let me know if they had a "C" type keeper holding the seal in place.

Bob Flaherty 08 Camelot, 07 Honda CRV

CA Traveler · 02-20-2012, 03:40 PM

Bob,

Was the second pump the newer design - aka similar to my picture above?

Regardless you've made me nervous and it's time to try and fix my old pump. And I need to test it: How? I'm thinking if the motor runs then add some fluid and some plastic hoses and see if it pumps.

Then if it works do I start carrying it with me? If I don't and I'm 1,000 miles away then what? Plan C?

CA Traveler · 02-20-2012, 03:50 PM

BTW What is the fitting on the silver side of the manifold next to the motor used for? There is a second one on the opposite side.

bobinaz123 · 02-21-2012, 07:21 AM

My replacement pump that now leaks is the original design.

Spares are always a good idea. However, hauling them around can be a problem. My plan is to leave it at home and have someone ship it to me if I need it.

I'm not sure which fitting you are asking about, but there is a device called a flow divider. That may be what you are referring to.

I have the pump disassembled and ready for the new seal when it arrives (I ordered it yesterday).

Today I'll remove the original (non-functional) pump from the MH to start trying to figure out what is wrong with it. Testing on the bench is a problem. Building test hose loops is a good idea but finding the parts to build them so they can handle the pressure is a challenge. I plan to ask Lipper about bench testing when I call then today.

I'm hoping they'll send me one of the new design.

Bob

RVRon · 02-21-2012, 08:08 AM

Ok, I'm convinced....I will rebuild my old pump for the safety factor.
Chalk another bad pump up to Lippert. Will it EVER end?

38 Special · 02-21-2012, 08:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bobinaz123

If others have done this seal replacement, please let me know if they had a "C" type keeper holding the seal in place.

Bob Flaherty 08 Camelot, 07 Honda CRV

Yes, my replacement pump started to leak, so I replaced the seal. This pump, shipped 12/16/10, had the C clip.

The C clip is not a fix, because the seal moving was never the issue. The seal leaking around the shaft is.

CA Traveler · 02-21-2012, 08:21 AM

I'd be interested in any LCI input for bench testing.

I was considering just running hoses back into the tank just to verify that the motor runs and pumps. This doesn't mean that it will pump under pressure, etc. Perhaps my only option would be to install it in the MH to test and it's doubtful I would do that.

If seals are going to break down with oil contact then perhaps that would start when rebuilt. So it might be good to keep a spare set with the unit.

Good idea about having the spare shipped. I'm now thinking to box it up so that's it's ready to be shipped.