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Old 08-07-2012, 09:23 PM   #1
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Leveling -- Advice

Hello. We recently purchased a 2001 Monaco Executive with tag axle. We've had a couple of problems while leveling and would like some advice. There are two leveling jacks in the rear and one in the front on our coach. Today, we parked on asphalt and attempted to level, without success. We then placed a wood block under the front jack, nothing under the rear jacks, and the coach leveled. However, we realized later that the front jack had crushed the wood block and made an impressive hole in the asphalt. The coach remained level. There is the possibility that the block of wood wasn't centered under the jack and that caused the problem, but we're also now wondering if perhaps we could have raised the tag axle in order to remove some of the weight from the front of the coach. We're relatively new to RVing (can you tell?) and are still experimenting with things. We've never tried leveling with the tag axle up, but are wondering if there are negative consequences to doing so. Probably the best thing to do is not park on asphalt, but this is another lesson learned. I guess we'll learn how hard a lesson once we attempt to lift the front jack tomorrow morning. What exactly is the correct procedure for leveling when you have one front jack and two rear jacks (hydraulic)? Thanks for any advice.
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Old 08-07-2012, 11:12 PM   #2
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I am not sure if this will help any but..... We have the four jack system and since we do a fair amount of BD camping, leveling could be challenging. I always put down block for a good footing and to spread out the weight a little. What I use is 12" squares of 1 1/2" thick sub flooring, one under each jack. After I dump the air out of the air bags, the front two jacks do not have much that they need to travel. The rears need to travel a little more. So far, other then tearing up boards on gravel surfaces, all has worked fine.
For your single front jack point, you might want to use a base that is a little larger then what I use. Spread the weight out some more. There have been times that I needed to place a second base under a jack to get us leveled.
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Old 08-07-2012, 11:17 PM   #3
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NINK......The Monaco instructions for leveling are very specific to prevent damage to the coach. The method used is generally opposite from other coaches. First, park the M/H and connect your power and water. This saves bending under open slides and also provides more/better power to the system.

On Monaco's, you first extend the slides while in the ride height position. The reason for this is that Monaco installs their slides and squares them up in the ride height position. Once the slides are extended, you dump the air. If you're just overniting, you can skip dumping the air to save time in the morning, but the coach will have less adjustabillity with the levelers.

Once you dump the air, you you MUST lower the front jack first. This prevents cracking of the windshield. The adjustment now pivots off of the front jack. I like to lift the front just slightly higher than the rear, knowing I have to raise the rears to get level.

Now lower the rears. If I know I'm low on one side, I lower that one a little first and then push both down at the same time. Once they touch, I fine tune the leveling.

When you depart, you do the reverse order. To prevent a large thunk from dropping the coach off of the jacks, I start the coach and allow it to air up. As I feel the coach start to lift, I hit the "Retract All" button and the jacks will lift without dropping the coach.

Once I'm done, I do my awalk around and disconnect the power cord, sewer and water.

I don't have a tag so maybe someone can jump in with what to do with the tag.

We were stopped overnight at a campground we've camped at for years and I lowered the front jack and leveled. As I stood up from the driver's seat the coach felt like it collapsed and I was sure that I blew the front jack. When I went outside, the front jack had pushed through the peatmoss/grass surface about a foot. It made a perfectly round hole. I had parked on this stuff for years and had never had an issue.

***Note, When my coach is parked at home, I place a towel over all of the switches on the driver's armrest because they face skyward and are susceptible to getting dirt/dust in them. I've already replaced two sticky leveler buttons.
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Old 08-07-2012, 11:52 PM   #4
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I agree with Diplomat Don 100%.

You have to realize that when you dump air, the air bags collapse and the coach is sitting down tightly on the bumpers inside the air bags. The front jack must be employed first, and I make sure to lift the front end an inch or two. This makes sure the coach is lifted up off the bumpers inside the air bags, and the coach can freely 'pivot' on that one front jack. Then I start to work the two rear jacks to raise the coach and level it side to side. I usually do that carefully, often working first one jack a little, then the other a little, back and forth until I eventually have the coach level.

This procedure works best if the site is level or a little low at the front end. When the site is low at the rear end, I found it took me a while to catch on to how best to do all this. Now I don't have a problem. My site at home is quite a bit lower at the back end, and I manage to level the coach without any problem. Practice does make perfect.

For blocks, I use 2 X 12's X 2' long, double stacked. For the front jack, my bottom block is 4' long so I can easily slip the block stack under the coach, and easily slip it back out, because the jack is at dead center underneath the coach. I don't seem to have any problem with them punching down much, even into grass.

Someone with a tag axle will have to verify this, but I don't think you want or need to lift the tag axle. I think that when leveling, the jacks are lifting the coach frame up, which would leave the weight of the axles resting on the ground. I don't think you want to increase the weight of the tag axle hanging from the frame. It should be best to leave that weight sitting on the ground. Just my opinion.
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Old 08-08-2012, 12:41 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diplomat Don View Post
To prevent a large thunk from dropping the coach off of the jacks, I start the coach and allow it to air up. As I feel the coach start to lift, I hit the "Retract All" button and the jacks will lift without dropping the coach.
I do almost exactly like Don except for one small detail. I have to push the "retract all" button before airing up the coach. I would like to follow Don's example, but if I do, my jacks will not fully retract - they just stop halfway there. It appears that they need the weight of the coach to push them in.

Why this is I don't know. I do keep the jacks very clean and lubricated, and I am also very sure that the fluid level in the hydraulic tank is OK.
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Old 08-08-2012, 11:35 AM   #6
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what they said, exactly.

Not sure when we'll hear from a tag axle driver with hydraulic leveling, most of em have air levelling, but I would say that if dumping your air suspension also dumps the air in the tag, it's all good.
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Old 08-09-2012, 07:34 AM   #7
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Hello all. Thanks so much for the advice. We have, for the most part, been following the procedures outlined above. Once I saw the hole in the asphalt created by the jack and the wood block, I was concerned that we had not leveled properly, but I'm convinced now that the wood block wasn't centered under the jack and that's what caused the problem. The jack easily retracted when we were ready to leave and all appears to be well. Thanks again for the advice.
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Old 08-09-2012, 08:17 PM   #8
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JimM68 is right. When you dump your air the tag axle down pressure is released. Diplomat Don explains the Monaco procedure to a 'T'.
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Old 10-01-2012, 10:16 PM   #9
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I have a 2001 diplomat 38. I agree with Don about the jacks and air dump. I'm new at this, so my question is about the slide out. I was told to level the motor home first then out the slide out. This is what I have been doing. Don says put the slide out then level. Does it matter if you slide out after it is level. What damage is done if it is leveled before you slide out. You information is appreciated. Thanks Rick
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Old 10-02-2012, 12:47 AM   #10
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Our manual states:
Slide out should be in the retracted position
Follow the procedure in the manual for leveling your coach
After the coach is level then you can extend the slide out room.
Yours could be different.......... Iver.
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Old 10-02-2012, 03:24 PM   #11
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Thanks Topman-
That's what I thought. An earlier person said to have the slide out extended then lower the rig,and level. that is backwards to my understanding. Thanks for the help
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Old 10-02-2012, 05:55 PM   #12
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Rick,

You need to reread Dons post and follow. He is correct. Monaco products of you vintage year is slides out at ride height first and then dump air and level. As he stated, Monaco products have a different procedure than the rest of the manufacturers. So whoever told you to level first, then slides was incorrect for your specific coach.
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Old 10-02-2012, 10:35 PM   #13
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When I read these posts about hyd. leveling it makes me really glad that I have the air level system. Just put out the slides and hit a button and I'm done..
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Old 10-03-2012, 02:21 AM   #14
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Just to confirm.......our coach is "air-leveling" only.
No hyd. jacks.
Iver.
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