Lighted Toggle Switches Are Out

[LeeB]

Some of my 2001 toggle switches lights are out. Is there a way to replace them or fix them? Or can a small L.E.D. lite be wired to them to show if they are on or off?

[RickT]

Lee,

You can replace the lamps, remove the rocker on the front of the switch and install the switch bulb. You have to hook the wires on the bulb over the contacts in the switch. You can get the mini bulbs (grain of wheat) at Radio Shack, 12 volt P/N 272-1092. or you could connect a light to the switch.
I have replaced 2 in our MH. By the way, I got the bulb part # from another post here.

Rick

[Sixpack98]

I had the same problem some time ago. I considered new lighted switches, LED indicator lights and replacing the bulb. I bought the bulbs Rick mentioned above and made up some series resistors in-line with the ground wire which is the ground return for only the bulb. Have not had the problem again. I made up several resistor assemblies: 47 ohm 1 watt resistor, insulated male 1/4" spade and female 1/4" female and put shrink tubing over the assemblies. The bulb resistance is also about 47 ohm so the bulb operates at about half power. The shrink tubing is probably overkill but worried a little about the assembly touching a 12v source. Not only have I not had a burned out bulb, the bulb is not quite as bright.

I suspect what might be happening to blow out the bulbs is the charger or alternator may be over driving the bulb. These bulbs have a very small filament and the 13+ volts the charger and/or alternator is too much for the filament to handle.

[wa8yxm]

I wored LED's next to the switches with the BOB (Burned Out Bulbs)

First... Find an electronics parts store.. This is the kind of store where "Joe's TV Repair" might well shop.... Often they will have a bin of indicator lights.. These are plastic tubes with a pair of wire leads at one end, and a lense at the other.. May be several different colors.. The tube is about 1/4 inch in diamater and 1-1.5 iches long, Usually white plastic with printing on it The leads are either black and black or Red and either white or black.. Mine are red/white for 12 volt

The 120 volt are black/black (they use NEON bulbs and are not polarity concerned)

I got a handful of each and in another nearby bin there are "Speed Nuts" (Slip nus) to hold 'em in place.. Get some of those too.

The switch will have one "Extra"contact, usually off to the side

So if your contacts are like this
1
2 3

Then 1 or 2 is battery and 3 is ground (AS A RULE)

REMOVE the wire from 3 and hook to the black lead on the LED, Touch the red lead to both of the other two wires.. It should light on one of them.. Mar it.

Now drill your quarter inch (or about) hole, shove the assembly through, slip the speed nut over the leads and shove it up to lock it in place.

Now hook the black to the wire you had it hooked to and the red to the marked wire.. Job done

On the off chance that the connection is a 120 volt switch....

Well.. that's what the NEON indicators are for (The ones with 2 black leads) With those you don't have to worry about which wire connects to which side.. just make sure you get a hot-switched and a neutral.

[LeeB]

Quote:

Originally Posted by wa8yxm I wored LED's next to the switches with the BOB (Burned Out Bulbs) First... Find an electronics parts store.. This is the kind of store where "Joe's TV Repair" might well shop.... Often they will have a bin of indicator lights.. These are plastic tubes with a pair of wire leads at one end, and a lense at the other.. May be several different colors.. The tube is about 1/4 inch in diamater and 1-1.5 iches long, Usually white plastic with printing on it The leads are either black and black or Red and either white or black.. Mine are red/white for 12 volt The 120 volt are black/black (they use NEON bulbs and are not polarity concerned) I got a handful of each and in another nearby bin there are "Speed Nuts" (Slip nus) to hold 'em in place.. Get some of those too. The switch will have one "Extra"contact, usually off to the side So if your contacts are like this 1 2 3 Then 1 or 2 is battery and 3 is ground (AS A RULE) REMOVE the wire from 3 and hook to the black lead on the LED, Touch the red lead to both of the other two wires.. It should light on one of them.. Mar it. Now drill your quarter inch (or about) hole, shove the assembly through, slip the speed nut over the leads and shove it up to lock it in place. Now hook the black to the wire you had it hooked to and the red to the marked wire.. Job done On the off chance that the connection is a 120 volt switch.... Well.. that's what the NEON indicators are for (The ones with 2 black leads) With those you don't have to worry about which wire connects to which side.. just make sure you get a hot-switched and a neutral.

Wow... Thanks a million for the info... I am going to try Radio Shack (or something else if I can find it)..... This could be fun and a learning experience at the same time. They are all 12 volt switches so I will be safe there...

Sixpacks..... Thanks for your response also. But I get lost when it comes to resisters etc....

[wa8yxm]

Radio Shack used to carry the kind of LED indicator assembly I'm talking about but their parts department has ... Well, it is not what it used to be..

I got mine at RS-Electronics in Liviona, MI. but any Electronics parts store should have 'em.

They look like the ones.. Below

[Diplomat Don]

LeeB....Are these the switches that went bad Northwest RV Supply: Set/Resume Switch Type B

You can still buy a lot of them from Northwest RV Supply.

[LeeB]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Diplomat Don LeeB....Are these the switches that went bad Northwest RV Supply: Set/Resume Switch Type B You can still buy a lot of them from Northwest RV Supply.

Yep those are the ones.......

As it turns out I went out to my MH after dark and all my switches are lit......... But on most of them I can not tell if they are on or off... The little line on the switch is not lighting when turned on....... Example; is the heated mirror switch in normal position the large square is lit (when the headlights are turned on) but when I turn it on the little blue line does not lite. So I am thinking I need to install a small LED lite under the switch and have it lite when the switch is turned on

[Dr4Film]

From what I know and remember about the Carling Technology lighted switches are that the little bulbs are not replaceable without destroying the switch itself. The cost for new switches at Northwest RV Supply are cheap enough, I would go that route instead of wiring in a separate LED for each burned out switch. You would also need to figure out where it hang it too. Certainly not the OEM look.

I have even bought switches which the faceplate wasn't what I needed but the switch was so they would just change out the faceplate if they had it or sell me just the switch without the faceplate and I used my old one.

At Northwest RV Supply, I usually work with Niabi but Joe answers the phone occasionally too. They are both great people and will give you personal service. A fantastic company to deal with. Whenever I need something, I always call them FIRST and then others later. They have had everything I have needed for my Monaco except for the defroster vents. Got those directly from Monaco a few weeks ago.

Dr4Film ----- Richard.

[Dr4Film]

Quote:

Originally Posted by LeeB Yep those are the ones....... As it turns out I went out to my MH after dark and all my switches are lit......... But on most of them I can not tell if they are on or off... The little line on the switch is not lighting when turned on....... Example; is the heated mirror switch in normal position the large square is lit (when the headlights are turned on) but when I turn it on the little blue line does not lite. So I am thinking I need to install a small LED lite under the switch and have it lite when the switch is turned on

Lee,

The switches that I have are all lighted switches but do not have indicators as to whether they are on or off. They are mounted such that when the switch is turned on, it is pushed up, off would be pushed down similar to any on/off switch. The only time it would be different is when you have more than one switch control location such as the Step Cover Switch which can be activated at the driver's console or the co-pilot's console. That switch could be either direction to function the cover.

Dr4Film ----- Richard.

[LeeB]

Thanks Richard... I should call them before I go any further and ask them what they think. My coach is new to me and I need all the help I can get when driving. I am getting used to it more and more.

It bugs me not knowing if something is on with out reaching and touching the toggle to see if it is up or down. I drove my coach for 3 days with the heated mirror switch ON...

[Diplomat Don]

LeeB......Dr4Film is right about the bulbs not being replaceable. I know there was someone who broke out the old ones and spent the time wiring in LED's. For $7.00 a switch I would really have to decide if my time is worth all that. Only some of the switches have the lighted bar.

You should have a master switch near your front door that trips all of your 12volt power. You should order an extra one of those. When they go bad, you loose all power.

[LeeB]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Diplomat Don LeeB......Dr4Film is right about the bulbs not being replaceable. I know there was someone who broke out the old ones and spent the time wiring in LED's. For $7.00 a switch I would really have to decide if my time is worth all that. Only some of the switches have the lighted bar. You should have a master switch near your front door that trips all of your 12volt power. You should order an extra one of those. When they go bad, you loose all power.

I do not have the 12v kill switch at the front door. The only one I know of is in where the batteries are.

I plan on calling Northwest today... Thanks ......