Little or No Dash Heat

[oceancrosser]

Happy New Year,

We are new owners of a 2004 Monaco Safari Cheetah and are excited to learn more about her before taking off to warmer climes.

During the delivery/shake down cruise from Sacramento to Tennessee we were never successful in obtaining sufficient heat from the dash vents. (opted for the southern route)

Once here, we consulted with our local maintenance and he decided the best route was to flush the radiator before going on to more invasive procedures.

Well, long story short. The heat is somewhat "warmer" from the vents, however not what I would consider sufficient to be comfortable. If we are stopped, the air tends heat up, but once we start down the road... brrrr, cold air returns! Of course the temperature selector is set to HOT!!

Would you look at the heater coil next? The thermostat is working as it should be, so no problem there.

Has anyone experienced this issue in the past? I did a "search" for this particular issue, however the information was a little dated.

Thanks for your support and help.

Rusty
Somerville, TN

[8.3Oilbuner]

Good evening Rusty. The Safari mostly mirrors a lot of other models Monaco made. I have a Windsor with the 8.3 Cummins and I assume yours is a diesel pusher with a Cat. engine, I may be wrong. Most Monaco design for dash heat in diesels is an electric control valve on the firewall. It controls the flow of coolant to the heater core in the dash. As you rotate the heat control on your dash, the valve opens by a small 12 volt motor to let more coolant run into the heater core. These 12 volt coolant control valves can stick part way open, or not open at all. I was lucky when I brought my coach home from Az. in December that the valve was stuck in the open position so I had lots of heat. When I got home I had the wife turn the heater temp control on the dash and I could not hear the 12 volt motor working in the valve on the fire wall. I unplugged the electric connection and plugged it back in, still no motor response. I next rapped the valve with the end of a large screwdriver. BINGO, It WORKED. It was just stuck! This may not be your problem, but it could be a place to start looking. Could also be a problem with the temp. control dial in the cab. If you need a place to start, I would start with the control valve on the firewall and go from there. Hope this gives you a place to start looking. Good luck.

[oceancrosser]

Yes, it is a diesel pusher (Cat C7) and we are very happy with the power and efficiency.

I am familiar with the location of the 12V valve on the forward firewall and will look at it in the morning.

That seems to be a logical place to start and if I am not successful, then I know where to start next.

Thank you very much for sharing your time and knowledge.

Rusty

[Old Scout]

Three things: 1--as mentioned, "H"-valve could be stuck/not working; 2--older heater cores tend to have smaller fins and can plug internally, or externally; and 3--just a bad system design. For item 3, try putting the selector knob on "max cool" and the heat knob on "Hot." This setting recirc. inside air and allows most efficient heat transfer. Items 1 and 2 require more effort but you should be able to verify heat flow to core by feeling hoses on either side of H-valve.
PS--Not sure what flushing main engine radiator has to do with improving dash heat???? Assume your engine is running at normal temps????

[oceancrosser]

Thanks for the response.

I will look at the "H" valve in the morning (suggestion #1), but the heater core will probably take someone with a higher knowledge to verify the integrity of its use (suggestion #2).

I have already attempted suggestion #3 by selecting "max cold" while moving the temperature selector to the "hot" position. This does provide a warmer air temperature but still not adequate for comfort.

It was explained to me on these older coaches, there is a door that closes while in the "max cold" position but is normally open during other positions. Therefore by selecting "max cold" you prevent a "ram air" effect and it recirculates cabin air. This explanation seems logical since we experience warmer air during the time we are idling but once we start down the road... it gets cold.

Now keep in mind... on the "Food Chain of Knowledge"... I am the single cell amoeba... but I am learning!!

Thanks for your time and help.

Rusty
Somerville, TN

[RamiDav]

We have an 03 Windsor and I'm not sure which Safari compares with it but
I believe our coaches are similar enough that if I can describe what I found
on our coach it might help you .

First my gen is on a slide so that I can sort of get behind it
From there I can look up at the firewall area where there is a plywood panel
The panel is in a horizontal plane running from side to side .
This plywood panel was meant to be screwed all along the front edge
Mine was not screwed , it was somewhat sealed on each end but a gap gradually
widened ( opened )toward the center .
I was afraid to run screw up to secure it because above it is the dash wiring
so I have sealed it with Great Stuff foam .

When underway it let would let in quite a bit of air

At night get someone to shine a bright flash light around under the dash
while you look from outside up in that area .

Ray

[67fisher]

It is quite easy to flush the heater core by just removing the hoses. I assume they are accessible from outside in the front access.

[RamiDav]

Don't expect a lot of heat from the dash heaters they are car heaters
and not great ones at their best .

Your air cond compressor runs when on defroster and maybe some of the
other settings as well which would cancel out some of your heat .

Air infiltration is the biggest enemy plus the large area inside .

As I mentioned before I found a large air leak in my dash area but I forgot to
mention that I also disabled the door that selects outside or inside air .
My opinion is that I will probably never need to use outside air .

I haven't tried this but have read that some folk use a shower rod , one of those
with a spring inside and some curtains which they put up behind the driver
and pass while traveling .

My coach has an Aqua Hot that hot engine coolant circulates in , it also has
heater cores located through out the coach that have fans and thermostats .
If that's not enough I can fire up the Aqua Hot burner .

The engine can heat the Aqua Hot or the Aqua Hot can heat the engine .

Ray

[67fisher]

Oceancrosser, don't know if you have solved your heating issue yet but I just replaced the "H" valve in my unit and now have 118 degrees of heat coming from my dash vents, (measured with a remote thermometer inserted in the vent and parked with the engine at a high idle). I suspected my original valve was by-passing.

[oceancrosser]

67Fisher,

In my mind, I haven't completely resolved my heating issue. The air from the vent is still rather "warmish" but certainly not comfortable or hot. I understand I won't beable to heat the entire coach from these vents but do think I should have warm air from them.

I have returned to my local mechanic and we verified the proper opening and closing of the "H" valve and after a second flushing of the heater core, there wasn't any residue coming out. Our next solution is the replacement of the heater core and hopefully that should resolve my issue.

But before I undertake that task, my son and I have an afternoon "training session" scheduled with Camping World to review and demonstrate the "ins and outs" of this machine. I am going to inquire with their local maintenance to verify we are on the right track.

I truly appreciate all of the helpful advice and suggestions.

Stay warm,

Rusty
Somerville, TN

[67fisher]

Originally Posted by oceancrosser

67Fisher,

In my mind, I haven't completely resolved my heating issue. The air from the vent is still rather "warmish" but certainly not comfortable or hot. I understand I won't beable to heat the entire coach from these vents but do think I should have warm air from them.

I have returned to my local mechanic and we verified the proper opening and closing of the "H" valve and after a second flushing of the heater core, there wasn't any residue coming out. Our next solution is the replacement of the heater core and hopefully that should resolve my issue.

But before I undertake that task, my son and I have an afternoon "training session" scheduled with Camping World to review and demonstrate the "ins and outs" of this machine. I am going to inquire with their local maintenance to verify we are on the right track.

I truly appreciate all of the helpful advice and suggestions.

Stay warm,

Rusty
Somerville, TN

My original "H" valve, although opening and closing, was indeed by-passing. I know this because I took it out and with the controls in the "heat" position, and a garden hose attached, I had about an equal amount of water going back to the engine as was going to the heater. Quite possibly there are internal o-rings which failed. I purchased a new valve, problem solved. True, you won't be able to heat the entire coach but front seat passengers should be pretty comfortable even in very cold weather.

[ga traveler]

Warmer when sitting still than when driving sounds like air infiltration. After dark go outside with a bright flashlight and shine all around the front under the hood. Have your wife look for light inside. Then do the reverse. Have her shine inside while you look outside. You would not believe the holes I have found at our lot doing this.

[Old Scout]

WOW--a training session at Camping World--please keep us posted on how that goes.

[oldguy70]

The plywood in my 98 Dynasty was up and to fix it I had to lift up the dash cover and I found holes in the tubing that run front to back. They were for 10/32 ready rod screw.
I fixed the screws and used locktite. I then drilled holes too the rear of those screws and put 1/4 bolts in them. I have no more draft. As I use my coach for skiing I have installed 2 heaters in the back and one in the wet bay that run off of engine heat.
Now around 0 I have to turn my dash heater down.