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Old 08-11-2018, 09:48 PM   #29
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Stuart, boy do I feel your pain. Had somewhat similar problems starting in Mobile, AL and fighting all the way home to Oak Harbor. Freightliner NW in Mount Vernon finally fixed problem a couple of months ago. Didn't see where you have checked your fuel filters...not likely the problem, but you need to eliminate it. I got a new CAPS pump, then a new engine wiring harness, a new lift pump, new ABS ECU, new INTERNAL transmission harness and found a blocked primary fuel filter.


FL found the cannon plugs on the starboard frame rail by the engine full of water. There are about 3 of them there - a round one with a cap on it, a smaller squareish one just open to the environment with no cap, and then one connecting engine to trans.


And, by the way, FL labor rate for motorhomes is $160 per hour! FL NW always has about a dozen units in their lot for service...someone must like their work. They were ok by me, but yes, expensive!


Good luck!
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Old 08-12-2018, 05:31 AM   #30
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One thing I'm not clear about when reading through this thread is - is this an "intermittent" problem or an active problem? Meaning do you have power to the VIM now (and just lose it going over bumps)?

If intermittent, it can be very hard to find the spot/cause.
If you do not have power to the VIM now, its a lot easier to trace (still not easy as the wires disappear into the harness). But you can run a new/temporary 12V feed wire in this case just to make sure everything works when power is supplied.

So, do you have 12V power at connections K1, K2, and J1, J2 at the VIM with ignition key On (pwr going "in" to VIM)?
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Old 08-12-2018, 08:40 AM   #31
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Mike, this went from very intermittent to a hard fail in 130 miles. I barely made it home when the coach completely died as I pulled into the driveway. Read my post #1 for greater detail.

As I indicated last night, I will be focused on the 12V feed to the VIM, specifically on the pins you are calling out and if there, following it through the ECM to the Shift Selector. If no voltage present, then working backwards through the harness. I do like your idea of jumpering 12V if it is missing and will do that. It's only 7:30 am here so it will be a little while before I put down my coffee cup and mouse and get out there.

Mark, my first reaction to reading your post was did Freightliner do all those things to your Diplomat you mentioned while looking for your problem or was that additional work you had done? I smell a small fortune spent here, but they did get you back on the road and solve a very difficult problem, so good to have the FL referral if it comes to that.

Regarding your filter question, I recently (June) replaced the primary fuel filters which are easily accessible, but still need to get to the one on the engine, which is actually right over the ECM connectors and is very difficult to access. I hear what you are saying about filters causing unusual problems, but here I have a hard electrical failure that would defy logic if same were cause by lack of fuel flow. Am I all wet here?
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Old 08-12-2018, 10:06 AM   #32
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No, you're on the right track.


Small fortune is right: Cummins, Mobile; Freightliner Montgomery; Freightliner Mt Vernon. Total: $18,000.


Good luck!
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Old 08-12-2018, 10:22 AM   #33
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No, you're on the right track.


Small fortune is right: Cummins, Mobile; Freightliner Montgomery; Freightliner Mt Vernon. Total: $18,000.


Good luck!
Holy crap Batman! That would bring me to tears.
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Old 08-12-2018, 11:27 AM   #34
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Sounds like something I have trouble with. I posted it here but will tell part of the story again. Trans started shifting erratically and jake operated differently from normal. Code indicated "Lost comm with engine ECU". Took it to Central Power in Springfield Mo. Their Allison guy put a shop TCU in it and the fault want away. Didn't drive it that way but when they put my ECU back in it reverted. I sat and watched him swap the units a few times and duplicated the same conditions. Diagnosed a bad ECU. $3k to get a rebuilt unit!! According to him there are no more new build and Allison isn't refurbing them, a third party is. I'm able to drive it just fine so that's going on the far back burner. They only charged for 1 hr diagnostic fee. Very reasonable. Very busy shop too.

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Old 08-12-2018, 11:47 AM   #35
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I know there is no direct lower from the battery but the vim might get the power from the rear run bay. Lots of power in that compartment and an easy run along the frame to the bay withe vim. Md11 pilot. Sounds like you said to educate the tech. Common at fl dealers. I empathize!!
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Old 08-12-2018, 01:36 PM   #36
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Problem solved. After not seeing B+ at the VIM J connector, I started working my way back through the incoming harness. Didn't take long before I found a 10g red wire broken out of a two pin connector. When I remade the connection, to my great relief all systems fire up and the coach started. The shift selector lit up and all warning lights went out. I later traced that wire to the Rear Run Bay where it was marked 'VIM'. The label was behind the taillight case and not visible from the engine compartment door opening. I had to remove the taillight to get at and see it. It has the 10 amp fuse I had been looking for (in all the wrong places).

I want to say thanks to all of you for the great suggestions and support, and a special thank you to CountryB Mike who sent me the Allison Troubleshooting Manual which without, I would have had a lot more difficulty getting to the right connectors and pins to trace voltage inputs. This is tribute to why this is such a great forum.

Have a great day guys. I'm going to!
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Old 08-13-2018, 06:26 AM   #37
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Great news. Now relax and enjoy.
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Old 08-13-2018, 06:57 AM   #38
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Problem solved. After not seeing B+ at the VIM J connector, I started working my way back through the incoming harness. Didn't take long before I found a 10g red wire broken out of a two pin connector. When I remade the connection, to my great relief all systems fire up and the coach started. The shift selector lit up and all warning lights went out. I later traced that wire to the Rear Run Bay where it was marked 'VIM'. The label was behind the taillight case and not visible from the engine compartment door opening. I had to remove the taillight to get at and see it. It has the 10 amp fuse I had been looking for (in all the wrong places).

I want to say thanks to all of you for the great suggestions and support, and a special thank you to CountryB Mike who sent me the Allison Troubleshooting Manual which without, I would have had a lot more difficulty getting to the right connectors and pins to trace voltage inputs. This is tribute to why this is such a great forum.



Have a great day guys. I'm going to!
Great job!!! Where was the connector?
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Old 08-13-2018, 08:21 AM   #39
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Stuart, you deserve an award!
Wow, great job.
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Old 08-13-2018, 08:49 AM   #40
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Thanks guys.

Ron, that 2 pin connector was M97A and is identified as 'TRANS PWR' in the schematics, page 180 for the 2006 Dynasty Wiring Diagrams. This publication cover not only Dynasty, but also Executive, Navigator, Signature, Imperial, Patriot, and Marquis.

The plug was located in a large bundle of harnesses in the ceiling of my forward cargo bay, between the VIM/Tranny ECU boxes and the passenger side frame rail. I was cutting open the zip ties around the bundle when I found it.
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Old 08-14-2018, 10:31 AM   #41
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Thanks guys.
The plug was located in a large bundle of harnesses in the ceiling of my forward cargo bay, between the VIM/Tranny ECU boxes and the passenger side frame rail.
I've worked in that area while removing and replacing our leveling computer. When I removed the plywood cover I was amazed at the amount of wiring!
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Old 08-25-2018, 08:20 AM   #42
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Thumbs up Chemie

Donít blame the ECM right away! Usually when an ECM fails it is totally dead, not intermittent. Iíve been a mechanic for decads now, and when I get a vehicle that has multiple problems; intermittent, some major some minor, then the first thing I go to is the ground system. Start at you batteries. Donít just look, pull off the connections and clean them. Corrosion can be hidden under the bolts. Really clean them with a brush does far better than spraying w/o removal. Then use your spray cleaner and replace. Be sure to dry it before reinstalling the connections. Next, follow the negative lines to where they connect to the frame or a block of wires. Same procedure, remove & clean & replace. Oh and check with your parts store for a spray can of contact coating to seal against corrosion. Use a light coating, donít ďpaint itĒ until it drips off. Someone suggested doing the wiggle test, this will also help you find a positive side wire that has shorted out on to the frame or other negative point from rubbing. Then another said to pull apart the major connection plugs and use a dielectric grease on them. Do clean off the old grease & dirt first. Both of these are excellent suggestions. On some electronic sensors the unit grounds itself (rarely, but older systems do have few of these). Simply remove the unit, clean where it contacts to the body or engine and reinstall. But overall, Iíve had the best luck with situations like yours by simply cleaning the battery terminals and the major grounding block in the battery box (where you see a dozen connections at a junction) and the ground straps on the engine (sometimes there are 2-4 of them).
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