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Old 12-16-2016, 07:22 AM   #1
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Lost 12V control

Need some help. At Disney and we lost the 12V control circuit for controls. We have 120V. It seemed to go slowly. Ran the heat pump last night and all was fine overnight but when we turned on 12V light the fan cut off on the heat pump. Turned off the light and it came back on. Now nothing. Batteries are reading 13.8. Were should I look? Thanks.

Dave
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Old 12-16-2016, 07:47 AM   #2
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A little bit confused, here.

You say your control circuits don't work. I'm not sure what that means, unless you have a multiplex system like the Intellitec.

I assume your microwave and A/C's work. You are saying the heat pump fan quits. I assume you are talking about the roof A/C's operating as heat pumps, as they are 120 volt powered. It also appears your battery(s) are charging ok, as batteries not on charge won't read 13.8 volts, but closer to 12.8 volts fully charged.

Do you have a furnace or an AquaHot? Whichever you have, is it working? They would be on 12 volt control and power.

Is your refrigerator working? You will have both 12 volts and 120 volts involved there, plus propane, if the 120 volts isn't available. What does the indicator on your refrigerator show for its status?

Do any of your ceiling lights work? Does your bathroom fan work? They are 12 volt powered.

Do your headlights work? (Chassis battery)

Are your 120 volt outlets in the coach powered?

The answers to these questions would be helpful. I don't know that I will be able to get you there, as I have no experience on how the 2002 Windsor is configured. If you had an '06 Dynasty, I would have lots of answers, but these coaches are so different from year to year, make to make, model to model, and even serial number to serial number.
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Old 12-16-2016, 07:49 AM   #3
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Dave
Monaco installed a switch by the door on many models that was commonly
referred to as the salesman sw because it would turn off the lights and other
things when exiting .
Over time it is guaranteed to cause problems .
Other things can cause the same issue that circuit is about 90% the cause .
Sometime just flipping that sw a time or two will temporally correct the problem
However the thing that most people do is to by pass the relay / solenoid that
the sw controls , the solenoid is where the real problem is .
I'm pretty sure on your coach that solenoid is in the front run bay outside under
the driver .
If you can get someone to flip the sw while you listen in that compartment you
should hear / feel that solenoid .
Moving one of the large wires over to connect with the other wire and unplugging
one of the small / control wires will eliminate the problem .
Ray
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Old 12-16-2016, 07:51 AM   #4
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Bypass your Battery Cutoff Solenoid and everything will be fine.

Leave the damn thing bypassed as that solenoid is a high failure item.

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Old 12-16-2016, 08:07 AM   #5
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Somehow the salesman switch DID get turned off. I now have 12V back. However when I turn on any electrical appliances the meter in the bedroom that measures the amount of amps I am drawing does not show anything.
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Old 12-16-2016, 08:26 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SafeDave View Post
...I now have 12V back. However when I turn on any electrical appliances the meter in the bedroom that measures the amount of amps I am drawing does not show anything.....

Everything seems to be working?

I don't know what type of meter you have but if you have solar or the converter going than some meters just show the overall battery input/output. ( ex. Using 10 amps but converter is charging at 11 amps = 1 amp at meter )
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Old 12-16-2016, 09:58 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SafeDave View Post

Somehow the salesman switch DID get turned off. I now have 12V back. However when I turn on any electrical appliances the meter in the bedroom that measures the amount of amps I am drawing does not show anything.
Since I own the same identical coach and floor-plan that you own you need to tell me what "meter" you are referring to so I can answer your question intelligently.

BTW, I would still strongly suggest that you bypass the solenoid permanently as it WILL fail when you least expect it such as 3 am and raining cats & dogs outside. Sort of hard to flush your toilet with no 12 VDC power, that is providing that your toilet is electric like mine.

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Old 12-16-2016, 11:38 AM   #8
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And speaking of cats & dogs and the SalesMan circuit...

That 12v line also provides power for the thermostat(s) controls for the HVAC (but not the actual units themselves). Therefore, if you lose the 12volt power, you also lose the HVAC units.

Happened to us several years ago midsummer. The relay had failed sometime while we were out shopping and, because the AC's shut down too, we came back to a VERY warm coach. Didn't want to imagine what it coulda been like if we didn't have our dog with us.
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Old 12-16-2016, 06:18 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SafeDave View Post
Somehow the salesman switch DID get turned off. I now have 12V back. However when I turn on any electrical appliances the meter in the bedroom that measures the amount of amps I am drawing does not show anything.
Ok that one may be easier than you think..

Is that meter part of an Intelletec Energery Management System? If no then Stop reading

Are you on 50 amps?

IF yes the Intelletec EMS will not display amps.. The reason for this is simple.. It measures the amps in the NEUTRAL (WHITE normally) WIRE.. On 30 amps, that is the sum total current drawn by the RV. but on 50 amps, if the park did the wiring properly, that is the DIFFERENCE between the red and black leads and basically useless info. So Intelletec simply turns it off so as to not confuse you.

To me, that actually makes sense.. Now if you want to know your amprage use on 50 amps you need another EMS. the Progressive Industries kind. I recommend an HW-50C (hard wired) This unit measures the two HOT legs and displays the amps.. You then add to find your total.. Which may be over 50 by the way even though it's "50 amp" but then ... .. Well.. The field I trained in.
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Old 12-17-2016, 04:13 AM   #10
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Thanks to everyone for the great advice. I did not suspect the salesman switch because it was not an on/off situation. We lost the 12v gradually. First it was very weak. It appeared to be much lees than the full power and then nothing. First order of business was bypass the switch. No more problems. Again thanks to everyone.

Dave
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Old 12-17-2016, 05:31 AM   #11
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I trust that you really meant that you will bypass the Battery Cutoff Solenoid versus bypassing the switch.

I have included a photo of the solenoid and how I bypassed it. You need to remove the purple wire and zip-tie it somewhere.

BTW, you did not answer my question as to what "meter" you were referring to in post #5.

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Old 12-17-2016, 05:56 AM   #12
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Richard, it was the EMS meter. I realized after I posted that it doesn't display anything when on 50A. I bypassed the solenoid just like the way you did. Just have to go back and remove the purple. Thanks.

Dave
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