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Old 11-20-2017, 03:31 PM   #1
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Lots of Air, No Heat

Our Attwood furnace worked fine two nights ago, but last night only cold air. When I turn it on it runs for about 30 seconds and shuts down. Cannot hear the igniter cycle. The cir. bd. red light flashes once every3 sec, indicating wind switch malfunction. Looks like I need to remove the furnace to make the repair. Is that correct?
If I were at home I would do it, but I am in a RV park so I don't want do something I really don't need to do. Thanks for any help
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Old 11-20-2017, 03:49 PM   #2
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HI USAF Wings; I have a Suburban furnace in my Windsor, so we don't have the same unit, but operation should be the same. I have never had mine not light. I am going to assume that you looked up the blinking red light on the switch, mine has a red light also, in the owners manual means a fail in the sail switch. This is just a thought that came to me but, since the furnace worked in the previous 2 nights and last night did not, could it be possible that for some reason the sail mechanism got stuck? If you have an exploded view in the owners manual of where the sail switch is located, would a possible rap with rubber hammer to the outside housing to maybe unstick the switch? Sometimes moving parts get hung-up or stuck for who knows what reason. I would want to put just a little vibration in that area, no sludge hammer, and see if you can get any results. It is like the old trick of rapping on the side of a carburetor to get the float to un- stick from the bottom of the float bowel. I have owned Jeeps for years and can't tell you how many times I have done this. Also rapped on a starter motor for a stuck brush with the same results. Just an idea to put into the mix of things. Hope you get if fixed soon. Good luck!
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Old 11-20-2017, 04:04 PM   #3
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Do you smell gas? If so, wait for it to clear before proceeding.

Sometimes the electrode gap is too wide causing an arc that leaves a deposit. Over time the deposit acts as an insulator. Check the electrode gap and surfaces to ensure it is properly spaced and clean of deposits.

Sometimes the electrode may be too close to the manifold so that a spark is not made. Gently reposition if needed so that the electrode is properly spaced from the manifold.

By looking through the opening in the heat exchanger one should be able to see the spark of the electrode.

Ensure gas is on and that supply is not exhausted.

Ensure gas supply is being delivered to heater. Visually check the gas manifold so that the gas valve is correctly plugged in. Test valve is receiving power by using a multi-meter. Do this by unplugging connectin, verify power as unit is turned on. Absence of voltage indicates a faulty ignition module. Replace module and retry. Voltage should be 12v.

Check ground connections.

Verify the flue is not blocked in any way. A blockage will not allow micro switch to close and complete safety circuit.

Check the pressure switch is attached to the blower assembly. If the hose that attaches the pressure switch to blower comes free then micro switch does not close and safety circuit is not completed. (also bad hose, cracks or bad micro switch)

Finally, check the Pressure Switch. This appears like a large diaphragm with two electrical connectors. The air pressure acts on the diaphragm to cause the switch to close and allow the ignition module to allow gas/ignition. The switch is normally open.

Hope this helps.
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Old 11-20-2017, 04:07 PM   #4
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Good Idea

I have thought the same thing, stuck vane. I don't know where that thing is, but it should to be in the ducting, probably close to the blower. I will tap the walls, just maybe I'll get lucky.

I do believe that kind of maintenance works sometimes. Thanks for the tip OB.
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Old 11-20-2017, 04:21 PM   #5
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Hi again Ted; I just watched some U-Tube video's on my Suburban furnace. Sorry did not check out yours since I don't have the model number. Might try Binging it to see if you can get a video on your Attwood. I hope you get warmer soon. Good luck! The video was very informative!
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Old 11-20-2017, 04:22 PM   #6
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Great Info

No Gas Smell, LP tank is full and hot water LP works fine.

Thanks for the checklist, I'll run though it and see if we can find the problem. I'll have to get on it tomorrow, but I am in Scottsdale AZ area so can survive the night just fine. Thanks for the expert advice. Ted
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Old 11-20-2017, 11:41 PM   #7
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Open it up from the outside, pull the connector on the control board, push it on and pull off a few times to polish up the contacts, you can do the same with the igniter too. It has fixed that same trouble on mine and is pretty common for furnace, and hot water tanks.
John G.
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Old 11-21-2017, 12:06 AM   #8
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Geez, before you start tearing everything apart, you may want to believe what it is telling you first.
The sail switch is located on the inside wall of the fan. You don't want to tap too hard on that thing as they get brittle with age and break easy like our old bones!
Removing that fan is not that difficult and there is a good video on utube that shows you how.
Those sail switches are not that robust and are a common fail spot. They are cheap and if you replace it yourself, it won't cost you anything more than the switch (about $10).
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Old 11-21-2017, 12:13 AM   #9
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If you have access to compressed air, blow out the intake and exhaust of your furnace really good! Also open the outside compartment and blow all the crap out twice a year if not more! You said you are in Az. so a good blast from your air hose will clean it out good, and may just fix your problem! Hope it is something simple like that! Rail!
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Old 11-21-2017, 12:14 AM   #10
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Remove outside access cover......
Remove the 'cover' over motor/fan wheel area (WHITE wires going thru that cover go to sail switch)

Many times sail switch are GOOD.....just dirty due to the dusty environment'
It is a micro switch with a paddle that sticks out into the airflow.
Fan Motor comes up to 75% (+) speed and paddle closes the sail switch

1 Flash Error Code.........Airflow/High Limit Error
Airflow---sail switch (Normally OPEN until airflow CLOSES)
High Limit...high temp limit switch (Normally CLOSED unless high temp trips it OPEN)

12V DC has to go thru sail switch and High Limit Switch to get to Circuit Board
THEN Circuit Board can send 12V DC to Gas Valve Solenoid and Spark Electrode

Clean up that sail switch.
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Old 11-24-2017, 11:09 AM   #11
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Fixed

Sorry for the late reply. I am still here in Scottsdale for a family reunion, lots of fun but it takes a lot of time to visit cousins, nieces, and brothers (I'm too old to have any uncles or aunts). Great time.

I was able to take the blower cover off this morning and work the wind switch on and off several times, put it back together and now it works like it is suppose to. Thanks for all the help. Hope all had a wonderful Thanksgiving.
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Old 11-25-2017, 08:50 AM   #12
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I always learn so much by reading these posts. Old Biscuit...are you sure you weren't a teacher in another life? Very informative. You guys all rock!!
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