Lube/Fuel Filters

[Gordon]

Well last week I completed my oil/oil filter change and the generator oil/filter and fuel filter. With the exception of getting the old oil filter off the 330 ISC, it all went well. Finally got the oil filter off, but it took some time and a larger filter wrench, 2 foot extension and a breaker bar to get it off.

Fuel filter on the generator was interesting. I have to find a way to keep diesel fuel from running down my arm and down to the seat of my pants!!

Today, I did the chassis lube with Shell Grease Hi-Performance Lithium, Albida EP, 14.1-oz, Nigi #2. After I got the coach up on about 4" thick boards, I crawled around and found all the lube points. While I was greasing the U joints one of the Zerks came off when I pulled the tube extension off. After that, I cleaned and replaced the Zerk, I checked all the other Zerks and found 3 that were very loose. Cleaned and tightened them. Obviously, when I had the coach serviced last fall, they didn't pay any attention to them. Advise: If you are doing it yourself, take the appropriate crescent wrench with you.

I also found that the Power Gear tank had considerable ATF fluid leaking. After seeing the post on reinforcing this area I bought the angle iron, strap and clamps to do Hardy1000's fix.

I also replaced the primary fuel filter today, and like "The Danes are Coming" I have not got the engine to start yet - still needs more priming (I replaced it dry). I figure that this is the safest bet.

I will have to wait until the morning to try and prime and start the beast as it got dark out and I did not want to disturb the neighbors.

The Monaco/Roadmaster posts have been very helpful. God knows where we would all be without it.

Once I get the engine running and get the second fuel filter replaced, I will still need to replace the air dryer cartridge, but that will have to wait till the next rain storm has passed. Aw! Well! Maybe in the spring!!

[hardy1000]

Originally Posted by Gordon

Well last week I completed my oil/oil filter change and the generator oil/filter and fuel filter. With the exception of getting the old oil filter off the 330 ISC, it all went well. Finally got the oil filter off, but it took some time and a larger filter wrench, 2 foot extension and a breaker bar to get it off.

Fuel filter on the generator was interesting. I have to find a way to keep diesel fuel from running down my arm and down to the seat of my pants!!

Today, I did the chassis lube with Shell Grease Hi-Performance Lithium, Albida EP, 14.1-oz, Nigi #2. After I got the coach up on about 4" thick boards, I crawled around and found all the lube points. While I was greasing the U joints one of the Zerks came off when I pulled the tube extension off. After that, I cleaned and replaced the Zerk, I checked all the other Zerks and found 3 that were very loose. Cleaned and tightened them. Obviously, when I had the coach serviced last fall, they didn't pay any attention to them. Advise: If you are doing it yourself, take the appropriate crescent wrench with you.

I also found that the Power Gear tank had considerable ATF fluid leaking. After seeing the post on reinforcing this area I bought the angle iron, strap and clamps to do Hardy1000's fix.

I also replaced the primary fuel filter today, and like "The Danes are Coming" I have not got the engine to start yet - still needs more priming (I replaced it dry). I figure that this is the safest bet.

I will have to wait until the morning to try and prime and start the beast as it got dark out and I did not want to disturb the neighbors.

The Monaco/Roadmaster posts have been very helpful. God knows where we would all be without it.

Once I get the engine running and get the second fuel filter replaced, I will still need to replace the air dryer cartridge, but that will have to wait till the next rain storm has passed. Aw! Well! Maybe in the spring!!

I just changed all of my filters except the generator. I purchased new oil, air, and fuel filters for that. When you lubed your chassis did you do the drive shaft and slip joint? We are suppose to lube it every 5k miles. The instructions are on the Monaco web. I do know about the diesel fuel running down the arm and into the pants.

[Gordon]

Yup! Found those - and lubed them.

Now, I need to get the thing started!

[William Willard]

Gordon -- Fill the primary filter with fuel -- The secondary filter will take care of filtering before going engine -- Don`t prefill secondary filter -- For sure, don`t have both filters empty -- Bill Willard

[Dutch Star Don]

Gordon....I've been servicing my vehicles since high school and worked as a mechanic until I was 21. There are very few things I can't fix......but......that darn fuel filter change never works as designed. I've changed them twice and both times the filters would not refill after doing the priming process (ISL 400). I had to loosen and bleed the water separator about three times to get it to fill. Next time I change them, I'm prefilling them.

Generator fuel filter..... Whenever you need to do a filter that is going to drip like that.....tie a rag around both wrists. This will keep the fuel from running down your arms. Because I've service that filter twice, the second time I used one of the graduated caps that come on a tube of silicone (an uncut one) as a plug. As soon as you disconnect the line, shove the cap into the opening.

Oh.....did you get the u-joints on the steering column....many miss those. One has to be done from inside the coach.

[hardy1000]

Originally Posted by Diplomat Don

Gordon....I've been servicing my vehicles since high school and worked as a mechanic until I was 21. There are very few things I can't fix......but......that darn fuel filter change never works as designed. I've changed them twice and both times the filters would not refill after doing the priming process (ISL 400). I had to loosen and bleed the water separator about three times to get it to fill. Next time I change them, I'm prefilling them.

Generator fuel filter..... Whenever you need to do a filter that is going to drip like that.....tie a rag around both wrists. This will keep the fuel from running down your arms. Because I've service that filter twice, the second time I used one of the graduated caps that come on a tube of silicone (an uncut one) as a plug. As soon as you disconnect the line, shove the cap into the opening.

Oh.....did you get the u-joints on the steering column....many miss those. One has to be done from inside the coach.

The rag aroud the wrists is a good idea...I always learn after the fact

[Gordon]

Originally Posted by Diplomat Don

Gordon....I've been servicing my vehicles since high school and worked as a mechanic until I was 21. There are very few things I can't fix......but......that darn fuel filter change never works as designed. I've changed them twice and both times the filters would not refill after doing the priming process (ISL 400). I had to loosen and bleed the water separator about three times to get it to fill. Next time I change them, I'm prefilling them.

Generator fuel filter..... Whenever you need to do a filter that is going to drip like that.....tie a rag around both wrists. This will keep the fuel from running down your arms. Because I've service that filter twice, the second time I used one of the graduated caps that come on a tube of silicone (an uncut one) as a plug. As soon as you disconnect the line, shove the cap into the opening.

Oh.....did you get the u-joints on the steering column....many miss those. One has to be done from inside the coach.

Good idea on the plug for the generator fuel line. I will remember that.

Got the engine started after going through the instructions to prime (from fuel line - dry method). Only took 3 cycles once I understood how.

Second fuel filter took 2 times to cycle before she fired up. Ran it for about 10 minutes to make sure all air was out of the line. No problems, although it is a bit unnerving cranking - even for a short time without it firing up, but it worked as advertised. I did a search and found this topic discussed here before from Here Come the Danes. Good advise by all. Printed it out and took it out when I started the coach.

Got all the lube points in the steering column, including the one under the column sleeve. Removing that one was a pain as it is right up against the dash, but it got done.

[Gordon]

I also did Hardy1000's brace for the Power Gear tank. Came out "Sweeeet"!



The black stuff on the bottom of the tank is the black spray paint that they used on the frame. I cleaned and dried the tank really well, so I could tell if I had any leak points.

The last task I need to do is the Air Dryer. I'm going to have to sacrifice a leather belt I guess. I could not find a strap wrench big enough at Lowe's or Home Depot that would fit around it. That will have to wait until tomorrow afternoon as it is raining here now, and I am working Swing Shift on my Sunday (Thursday) - overtime.

If anyone has a better idea for removing the air dryer cartridge, I would appreciate it.

My main lesson learned on this years maintenance is:

Check your Zerks for being loose! No lube in the U-joint would have been bad news.

At least I didn't have to spend $500. I spent about $300 including the air dryer cartridge.

[tquarles]

I wouldn't bother with a belt. First step is to drain the air system COMPLETELY. You don't want any pressure left. Then put on a pair of gloves and unscrew it - I took mine off one-handed the first time I changed it, so even from the factory it isn't too tight.

[rex]

Gordon, go to NAPA and get a strip wrench. They have one that works with a 1/2-inch socket wrench that works on the Air Dryer and your filters. Good toolbox addition. Cost around $16.

[Mutt]

The first time I changed mine using an old belt(I was on the road). Sometimes even with the air pressure gone, you will need a little extra twist to get the filter started turning. I now have a strap wrench with a long strap. Works good. Good luck with yours.
David

[Gordon]

Originally Posted by Rex

Gordon, go to NAPA and get a strip wrench. They have one that works with a 1/2-inch socket wrench that works on the Air Dryer and your filters. Good toolbox addition. Cost around $16.

\

Took your advise and picked up the 1/2 inch socket wrench w/strap. I really had to work at getting it off. It was on so tight that the seal had deep grooves from the metal base.

One thing I noticed was that there was some moisture inside the bowl after I took off the old cartridge. I dried that out with a microfiber towel and lubed the O ring and the gasket. I'm thinking that the old cartridge was about used up.

After starting the engine, I went back to the Wabco and listened to it pumping air through it. The when it reached full PSI on the gauges, I heard the excess pressure purge.

It has been an interesting week!

[Gordon]

Just for the record. What type of lubricant is used on the air Wabco air dryer?

The one I just installed came with a small tube of clear lubricant. The other one I bought on E-Bay did not - and neither had any instructions.

I found the installation instructions for Wabco - but it did not list the type of lubricant.

http://www.meritorwabco.com/MeritorW...nt/tp96178.pdf

[Raca-roni]

Guys,
I was told by a Truck mech, of many many years, to prefill my fuel filters. I do and have never had a problem with starting up the engine after the change etc.
How long of a cycle do you guys go through prior to changing your air dryer cannister filter?