Mechanic switch in engine bay

[Txcharlie]

Can anyone direct me where to find the correct 4 pin connector that plugs into the side of the mechanic switch box on a 2005 HR Imperial 40PRT? It appears to be a Molex or something similar but I need to find the exact one so it fits back into the cutout on the switch box.

[l1v3fr33ord1]

Txcharlie-

It appears your post is supposed to show two pictures. They don't display for my computer and browser combination.

A couple pictures (that display) would help ID the connector.

[Txcharlie]

I can see the pics. Not sure what's going on. I have lots of issues with this site.

[Txcharlie]

Here is a link directly to the pics. https://photos.app.goo.gl/FRKvsL6MrqskBw2o6

[CountryB]

Our coaches use the Mate-N-Lok or Mate-N-Lok2 connectors.

You can try here https://www.mouser.com/new/TE-Connec...YaAkd7EALw_wcB

[l1v3fr33ord1]

Txcharlie-

The first picture (the one with the metal bracket) shows a TE Connectivity/Tyco/AMP Universal Mate-N-Lok II (UMNL II) connector. The second picture (the one of just the connector) shows a TE Connectivity/Tyco/AMP Universal Mate-N-Lok (UMNL) connector.

The UMNL and UMNL II connectors will connect with each other. The difference is that the UMNL has a single-piece shell and requires a pin-removal tool to repin, while the UMNL II used a two-piece shell and can be repinned without a pin removal tool. That distinction is important only when you are replacing a broken connector, in which case you want to use the same style (UMNL or UMNL II).

Both styles are available in small quantities at Allied Electronics (www.alliedelec.com).

UMNL II "Cap": TE Connectivity part number 770026-1, link here
UMNL "Plug": TE Connectivity part number 350779-1, link here

I see Mike got his answer in while I was writing this post!

[153stars]

Arrow electronics is good source for electronics as well. Especially one or two small things.

[Txcharlie]

Thank you for the information. You guys are awesome! I searched for hours and never found this info. Is there a good alternative to using these as I have no intention of spending hundreds of dollars for their proprietary tools. Also, I would rather use a sealed connector as corrosion on the pins is the issue with the one I need to replace.

[l1v3fr33ord1]

Txcharlie-

You don't need the proprietary tools. A general-purpose crimp tool with the correct die set works fine. I bought a nice one, a Paladin model. It was under $100, as I remember. It appears as if Greenlee now sells the same tool (link here. Note: You'll need a different die set for the AMP terminal pins.)

For sealed connectors on our-era coaches, Monaco used Delphi Weatherpack connectors. The same Paladin crimp tool works (with the correct die set) to crimp Weatherpack connectors. You can also buy an inexpensive Weatherpack-specific crimp tool. Link to the Weatherpack connectors is here.

I have also used the Metri-Pack 280 sealed connectors, where it didn't matter if I matched the Monaco connectors (for instance, on the toad). Link to Metri-Pack 280 connectors is here.

Note: Over time, I have spent more on pins, shells and wire than a decent crimp tool, such as the Paladin/Greenlee.

[Txcharlie]

Originally Posted by l1v3fr33ord1

Txcharlie-

You don't need the proprietary tools. A general-purpose crimp tool with the correct die set works fine. I bought a nice one, a Paladin model. It was under $100, as I remember. It appears as if Greenlee now sells the same tool (link here. Note: You'll need a different die set for the AMP terminal pins.)

For sealed connectors on our-era coaches, Monaco used Delphi Weatherpack connectors. The same Paladin crimp tool works (with the correct die set) to crimp Weatherpack connectors. You can also buy an inexpensive Weatherpack-specific crimp tool. Link to the Weatherpack connectors is here.

I have also used the Metri-Pack 280 sealed connectors, where it didn't matter if I matched the Monaco connectors (for instance, on the toad). Link to Metri-Pack 280 connectors is here.

Note: Over time, I have spent more on pins, shells and wire than a decent crimp tool, such as the Paladin/Greenlee.

Thanks again for the great info! I'm guessing the housing and pins are sold separately? Which pin/socket do I need? Are the terminals considered open barrel?

[Txcharlie]

Here are the part numbers I found:

Pin 350873-3
Socket 350874-3

Do those look right?

[l1v3fr33ord1]

Txcharlie-

I use the following:

70083979 350547-1
PRE-TINNED BRASS, UNIVERSAL PIN; 20-14AWG

70083980 350550-1
PRE-TINNED BRASS, UNIVERSAL SOCKET; 20-14AWG

70082914 640309-3
Connector, Soft Shell; Pin; Universal MATE-N-LOK; 19 A; 600 VAC; 12-10 AWG

70083329 640310-3
Connector SOCKET 10-12AWG TIN

Here is a link to the Greenlee PA1306 equivalent of the Paladin 8026 tool I bought:

https://www.amazon.com/Greenlee-Comm...qid=1555796145

It comes with the correct die for non-insulated terminals. I own several other dies. For insulated terminals, this one I use the most:

https://www.amazon.com/Greenlee-2040...qid=1555796393

[Txcharlie]

Originally Posted by l1v3fr33ord1

Txcharlie-

I use the following:

70083979 350547-1
PRE-TINNED BRASS, UNIVERSAL PIN; 20-14AWG

70083980 350550-1
PRE-TINNED BRASS, UNIVERSAL SOCKET; 20-14AWG

70082914 640309-3
Connector, Soft Shell; Pin; Universal MATE-N-LOK; 19 A; 600 VAC; 12-10 AWG

70083329 640310-3
Connector SOCKET 10-12AWG TIN

Here is a link to the Greenlee PA1306 equivalent of the Paladin 8026 tool I bought:

https://www.amazon.com/Greenlee-Comm...qid=1555796145

It comes with the correct die for non-insulated terminals. I own several other dies. For insulated terminals, this one I use the most:

https://www.amazon.com/Greenlee-2040...qid=1555796393

Thanks again for all your help. I have ordered everything I should need to make the repair.

[CountryB]

This crimper is a lot cheaper - anything wrong with it?

https://www.amazon.com/IWISS-Weather...=ATVPDKIKX0DER