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Old 04-18-2019, 10:55 PM   #1
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Modern replacement Alternator for my '99 Monaco

Greetings All, the Leece Neeville Alternator (4884JB, 200amp.) in my '99 Monaco DP has failed and I would like to know if anyone out there has installed a modern replacement Leece Neville successfully. This particular alternator part number is difficult to find and I suspect a better modern replacement is out there. Thanks for your help, Derbyncrewe
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Old 04-18-2019, 11:41 PM   #2
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This site may have a cross reference .

www.densoheavyduty.com/
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Old 04-19-2019, 12:13 AM   #3
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Another site that addresses your Duvac system.

https://www.qualitypowerauto.com/
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Old 04-19-2019, 05:50 AM   #4
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Recently replaced my alternator. I found the best price at Quality Power High Output Alternators & High Torque Starters I decided to replace my 160 amp Leece Neville with a 200 amp Delco Remy 28SI. The install was fairly simple except on the DR you don't connect the excite wire since it is self exciting. I had my old LN rebuilt and carry it as a spare.

https://www.qualitypowerauto.com/cat...lternators.htm
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Old 04-19-2019, 07:33 AM   #5
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Alternator alternative

Read this link. Someone posted a PDF on how to wire the newer alt.
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Old 04-26-2019, 07:25 AM   #6
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Blue Sea ML-ACR

There are hundreds of posts about problems with replacing the older LN DUVAC alternators. The problems usually center around the need for a voltage-sensing input on the alternator, and a tach output. Some replacements (Delco 28Si?) have the tach output...not sure about the voltage sensing input.

However, the voltage sensing input is necessary only because your coach, like my 2000 Dynasty, is equipped with a solid state isolator to charge, but isolate, both house and chassis batteries. Consider the Blue Sea ML-ACR for less than $200. It eliminates the solid state isolator, Big Boy relay, and the Lambert charger with a device that performs flawlessly, displays whether it is combining battery banks or not, is rated for marine use (waterproof), and has a warranty that reads "We stand behind this product for as long as you own it." Many forum members with marine experience are familiar with the reputation of Blue Sea products.

Even if I had a later model coach with a BIRD system, I would replace it with this ML-ACR at the first sign of trouble. For the price, you can even carry a spare. The "ML" part of the description is for "magnetically latched". Unlike the Big Boy, the ML-ACR draws only milliamps regardless which state it is in--does not require current to keep it actuated.

Search this forum for several posts about installing one.
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Old 04-26-2019, 11:29 AM   #7
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Hi ! Welcome to IRV2! We're sure glad you joined the gang!

Others have pretty well covered it but I noticed that you are kinda new on IRV2 and wanted to say hello! Have fun and keep her between the ditches!

Good luck, happy trails, and God bless!
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Old 04-26-2019, 12:12 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by derbyncrewe View Post
Greetings All, the Leece Neeville Alternator (4884JB, 200amp.) in my '99 Monaco DP has failed and I would like to know if anyone out there has installed a modern replacement Leece Neville successfully. This particular alternator part number is difficult to find and I suspect a better modern replacement is out there. Thanks for your help, Derbyncrewe
Welcome to the forum.
I have a 99 Monaco also that usses the same Alternator.

NAPA found me an identical match and so did a discount big rig parts store in Chicago.
I found two rebuilt at a rebuild parts shop in Columbus Ohio also.
After NAPA had ordered a new one.
I installed the new one and took the old to the rebuild shop in Columbus and they swapped me for a guaranteed new condition rebuild for very few $$$ s.

Now I carry a spare along.

I always search for chassis parts ussing parts #s.
And part brand name.

Never say RV. Use
Never say Monaco or Fleetwood or xyz brand.

That can confuse the issue for big truck chassis engine parts.

I have also found parts or sources for parts and service shops through local fire departments in an area.
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Old 04-27-2019, 08:02 AM   #9
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Vanwill
I been Considering the Blue Sea ML-ACR. Could you explain how to wire up to replace the solid state isolator, Big Boy relay, and the Lambert charger.
I'm on my 2nd Leece Neeville Alternator (4884JB, 200amp.) And looks like it's still not right. I'm thinking of replacing with the Delco 28Si? And not having a tach is a concerned to me too.
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Old 04-27-2019, 10:28 PM   #10
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Modern replacement Alternator for my '99 Monaco

Hi Busnut,

I helped Van with his ML-ACR install after Van saw the install on our 1994 Signature, replacing a diode isolator and a battery boost relay.

http://assets.bluesea.com/files/reso...am/ML-ACRs.jpg

The ML-ACR install is very simple and ends up being a simplification of the existing setup. You connect one side to the chassis battery bank and alternator and the other side the the house battery bank and anything that primarily charges the house batteries. This would include your inverter/converter and your solar panel if you have one. On Vanís this was in place of the Big Boy relay.

The other connections at the ML-ACR end are a ground wire and two wires to the switch for Remote and LED.

For the two connectors from the ML-ACR relay to the switch, I was able to use the original Battery Boost wire for the Remote connection, and have pulled a new wire (actually pulled a few), or found an unused wire in another bundle, depending on your coach, for the LED wire.

At the switch end you will also need a ground and a power source. The power source can be either the house or chassis power, but if the bank you are connected to is really flat, you will not be able to use the switch to manually combine them. It makes sense to have a way to move the power wire at the switch to the other battery bank unless you can get to the ML-ACR to manually combine them on the relay itself.

Any other connections and devices that are to do with battery boost and cross charging can be removed, this would include your diode isolator, your Big Boy battery boost relay and the Lambert charger. You can also remove/disconnect any connections to those devices and anything that would drive them, like the BIRD circuit, if you have one.

You can use the isolation wire inputs on the ML-ACR to make some operations automatic, but I left them unconnected. I would typically leave the switch in the AutomatI or Connected position unless I was running the generator with the engine running, when I would move the switch to off to separate the banks so the charging from the alternator and the inverter/converter charging the house batteries from the 120v AC provided by the generator would fight each other.

We had a Delco 28si on our 1994 Signature and it has a tach signal. It is also single wire which means it will not start charging or driving the tachometer until the revs get to a certain level. After that point, it will charge at all revs. A quick blip on the throttle was all I needed to get it to start charging and the tachometer to start reading.

Please PM me if you have any other questions and we can get on a call to get you squared away.

Paul
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Old 04-27-2019, 10:30 PM   #11
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Greetings All, I wanted to express my appreciation for everyone who replied to my information request regarding the Leece Neville alternator issue I was having. I wanted to update everyone how I finally resolved my issue. At one time one could find a mom and pop generator/starter rebuilding shop in every community in this country. They are almost all gone now however, I did locate one (in business since 1947) not far from my residence Oakland County, Mich). I made contact with the owner/operator and told him I had a Leece Neville 4884JB alternator that was behaving badly. He told me to bring it in and he will rebuild it and have it to me in 2 days and that this particular alternator was used on city owned garbage trucks and was an extremely reliable unit. The rebuild included new regulator, stater (270amps), bearings, brushes, etc. He demonstrated the operation on a test fixture and reminded me he was there if I had any issues. The best part of this exercise was I kept my original alternator and no wiring modifications were required. My Monaco is as it was delivered from the factory. I felt good receiving such personel service, supporting a local small business and knowing my alternator was properly rebuilt by a competent trained technician. Many thanks everyone for all of your input. Be well, Derbyncrewe
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Old 04-28-2019, 07:55 AM   #12
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Thanks Pwhittle
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Old 05-24-2019, 02:32 PM   #13
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Hite parts auto rebuilders Columbus Ohio.

They rebuilt my Alternator in 1 hr while I waited.

Very nice people.
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Old 06-12-2019, 02:13 PM   #14
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Tach signal

PWhittle,
I just removed a dead 25-12 Powerline Alternator from my 95 Dynasty and replaced with a 28SI. My tach was not working before the swap and is still not working, but Im thinking that is because I have not hooked up the tach signal. Does the grey signal wire of the tach simply terminate on the Relay terminal of the 28SI?



Thanks in advance.



Quote:
Originally Posted by pwhittle View Post
Hi Busnut,

I helped Van with his ML-ACR install after Van saw the install on our 1994 Signature, replacing a diode isolator and a battery boost relay.

http://assets.bluesea.com/files/reso...am/ML-ACRs.jpg

The ML-ACR install is very simple and ends up being a simplification of the existing setup. You connect one side to the chassis battery bank and alternator and the other side the the house battery bank and anything that primarily charges the house batteries. This would include your inverter/converter and your solar panel if you have one. On Vanís this was in place of the Big Boy relay.

The other connections at the ML-ACR end are a ground wire and two wires to the switch for Remote and LED.

For the two connectors from the ML-ACR relay to the switch, I was able to use the original Battery Boost wire for the Remote connection, and have pulled a new wire (actually pulled a few), or found an unused wire in another bundle, depending on your coach, for the LED wire.

At the switch end you will also need a ground and a power source. The power source can be either the house or chassis power, but if the bank you are connected to is really flat, you will not be able to use the switch to manually combine them. It makes sense to have a way to move the power wire at the switch to the other battery bank unless you can get to the ML-ACR to manually combine them on the relay itself.

Any other connections and devices that are to do with battery boost and cross charging can be removed, this would include your diode isolator, your Big Boy battery boost relay and the Lambert charger. You can also remove/disconnect any connections to those devices and anything that would drive them, like the BIRD circuit, if you have one.

You can use the isolation wire inputs on the ML-ACR to make some operations automatic, but I left them unconnected. I would typically leave the switch in the AutomatI or Connected position unless I was running the generator with the engine running, when I would move the switch to off to separate the banks so the charging from the alternator and the inverter/converter charging the house batteries from the 120v AC provided by the generator would fight each other.

We had a Delco 28si on our 1994 Signature and it has a tach signal. It is also single wire which means it will not start charging or driving the tachometer until the revs get to a certain level. After that point, it will charge at all revs. A quick blip on the throttle was all I needed to get it to start charging and the tachometer to start reading.

Please PM me if you have any other questions and we can get on a call to get you squared away.

Paul
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