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Old 10-01-2015, 09:26 AM   #141
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I hate it when I get into a spot and say, "I know I used to be able to fit here. Now how do I get back out?"
I hear ya. I get into some spots and the "hand in the honey pot" theory quickly shoots through my mind and think the same thing. What sequence do I need to go through to manuever myself back out.

Mike.
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Old 10-01-2015, 10:38 AM   #142
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I hear ya. I get into some spots and the "hand in the honey pot" theory quickly shoots through my mind and think the same thing. What sequence do I need to go through to manuever myself back out.

Mike.
LOL, precisely!
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Old 10-12-2015, 09:55 AM   #143
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I have been having a peculiar issue with my Aqua-Hot system in our coach. I experienced a smoking issue back in June when the wife and I were on a trip to Grand Teton NP. Upon arriving home I decided to do a service on it, which consisted of replacing the fuel filter, fuel nozzle and cleaning the combustion chamber. After performing the service it appeared to be better for a trip or two but they were fairly close together trips.

The coach had set for about three weeks before we headed to Ouray in August. Upon arriving at our campground in Ouray, I fired up the Aqua-Hot and noticed a slighty smoking situation. Although much less than previously detected it was still there but different. The unit would fire up going through the normal startup procedure and would not smoke immediately, it would run for approx. 45-60 seconds then start emitting a very slight white smoke from the exhaust for about another 60-90 seconds. After which it would clean up and burn completely clear for the remainder of it's burn cycle.

I decided to rebuild the solenoind plunger as it is a serviceable component and sold in "kit" form. It comes as a plunger, spring and pintle along with an O-ring for the solenoid stem. I replaced this in August upon arriving home from our annual Ouray trip and while I was in there I decided I would check the fuel pressure. I believe I posted some pictures of this procedure earlier in my thread.

Prior to testing the fuel pressure I decided to fabricate a pressure gauge setup. These pressure gauges can be purchased from Aqua-Hot but they are a bit on the spendy side. I just decided to use an old nozzle and make one in house.

I disassembled an old nozzle assembly.


Chucked the nozzle up in the lathe and faced off the end.


Fuel nozzle cleaned up after facing, drilling and tapping the end for an 1/8" NPT thread.


I then purchased an inexpensive 0-200 PSI gauge and a 4" piece of stainless with 1/8" NPT threads on either end. Upon inserting the test gauge into the nozzle stand I made certain that the fuel pressure was exactly @ 145 PSI +/- 5 PSI. When I first opened up the cabinet I did however notice a few drips of diesel fuel hanging off of the fuel fittings and the intake horn for the blower housing was a little damp with diesel fuel. I thought this to be odd because there should be no fuel on the blower housing side of the fuel plate, everything fuel related should be on the nozzle side. My suspicion was a leaking fuel pump as it is driven off of the gear driven from the blower motor. However, generally speaking when a fuel pump leaks it will generally emit a continuous white smoke, not intermittent.

Here is the gauge threaded into the stand where the nozzle resides and ready for testing.


The pressure checked out so I put the unit back together and fired it up. It smoked just a small amount but that is normal after a service as diesel fuel can pool in the nozzle assembly.

Next trip out to Yellowstone in September I again noticed the white smoke upon initial startup again. Very slightly and my wife mentioned that she didn't notice it. But I did, and I found it to be embarassing. I absolutely HATE it when something of ours is not just so. I found it hard to relax as it irretated me to no end.

Upon arriving home I decided to pull the Webasto burner completely out of the coach and get it on the bench where I could disassemble it and try to locate the problem. I had a theory, but it was only a theory. My theory was that the fuel pump was starting to leak and pooling a very slight amount in the blower housing, but not enough to give continuous white smoke. Upon startup, there was no fuel pooled near the nozzle so that is why it fired up smoke free. After running for close to a minute it must be pushing that pooled fuel out into the combustio chamber where it was getting burned, resulting in the white smoke. Once that extra fuel was burned in the combustion chamber it would clean up and burn clear/clean the rest of the cycle. Then depending on how long it sat between burn cycles it would smoke if sat for a day or more between cycles, or burn clear and clean if only a few hours between burn cycle. This was my theory and I felt good about it but wanted to tear the unit apart and locate the source of the fuel leak.

Webasto unit out of the coach and on the workbench.


Webasto unit separated and the bottom side of the fuel plate.


Here is the original grease/lubricant that has hardened and doesn't appear to be lubricating the fuel pump drive gear any longer.


Here is the assembly with the blower housing removed.


Here you can see where there is diesel fuel pooled on the blower side of the fuel plate. It appears as though the fuel pump input shaft is leaking.


The blower housing was wet with fuel as well. I originally detected diesel fuel at the intake opening last month.


After removing the blower impeller you can see the fuel coating the assembly.


The Webasto completely disassembled for a thorough cleaning. I also put together a parts list.


Composite blower houseing cleaned and set aside ready for re-installation.


I placed my order with Roger Berke and the parts promply arrived two days later. When I was disassembling the blower impeller assembly I noticed that the bearings had diesel fuel coating them. The unit is now 13 years old and I didn't want to risk the chance of the fuel washing the lubrication out of the bearings. The unit was still nice and quiet with no adverse sounds but while I was in there I opted to replace the two bearings on the impeller shaft.

I also ordered a new large O-ring to seal off the blower housing as the original one crumbled upon removal.


I replaced the fuel pump, which came as a kit with new banjo bolts, crush washers and high pressure fuel line from the pump to the nozzle stand. I also replaced the nozzle stand although I don't think that was causing any issues, the seat was just appearing a little worn and I figured I was this far into it. These units can be purchased remanned with a core charge but they are around $3500.00 and I figured I could do just as good a job rebuilding it as anyone else so I opted to merely purchase the parts and rebuild it myself.

Here is the unit completed and ready for re-installation back into the coach. Look at how nice and pretty and clean everything is. Looks great just for it to go into a basement compartment and never be seen again.


Here is a closeup of the business end after adjusting the electrode gap to proper specs. I have installed an old nozzle just for the picture.


Pile of old parts.


Here are the new Donfoss nozzles. These are the replacement for the older style of nozzles but are the same .35 GPH flow rate.


After a successful re-installation and several test runs it appears to be smoke free and ready for many more years of operation.

Mike.
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Old 10-12-2015, 10:13 AM   #144
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Saturday morning I backed the coach up to the shop door and raised the rear end up so I could pull the drive and tag axle tires/wheels and check the brakes. I have noticed an ever so slight increased effort required on my brake treadle over this past year and thought I would check out the "S" cams and ensure nothing is binding.

Coach backed up to the shop door and 22-ton jackstands in place.


Bad news on my right side tag axle. I have a seal that appears to have started leaking.


The shoes themselves looked almost new so I used some compressed air and blew all of the dust out of them.


The "S" cams had some corrossion built up on them.


Upon removal of the brake shoes I found that the "S" cams themselves moved freely all the way out to the air chamber.


I then decided to take a fine grit emery roll and polish up the corrosion and buildup on the "S" cams.


I didn't want to actually remove any steel, merely the built up corrosion, more of a polishing job than anything else.


I applied a small amount of anti-seize to the polished section of the "S" cams. A little big goes a long ways so no need to put too much on.


I then re-assembled the brake shoes. I also applied some anti-seize to the pitot pins on the opposite sides and the rollers themselves.


Lastly before installing the brake drums I added a small amount of anti-seize to the pads on the hubs where the drums and wheels self center. This will make your life (or your mechanic's life) so much nicer upon the next removal.


That pretty much did it for the weekend's work. Today I need to locate two oil seals and replace my tag axle seals.

Mike.
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Old 10-12-2015, 10:59 AM   #145
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One trick I learned from cylinder head porting is to make a flap wheel by sawing the head off a bolt, and cutting a slot in the end of it. Chuck it in a die grinder, and take a strip of emery cloth and insert into slot, and wrap it around the bolt. Use wd40 as a lubricant, and polish away. Not really much for any material removal, but it sure does a nice fast job of polishing.
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Old 10-12-2015, 11:16 AM   #146
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One trick I learned from cylinder head porting is to make a flap wheel by sawing the head off a bolt, and cutting a slot in the end of it. Chuck it in a die grinder, and take a strip of emery cloth and insert into slot, and wrap it around the bolt. Use wd40 as a lubricant, and polish away. Not really much for any material removal, but it sure does a nice fast job of polishing.
Yes, I have used that trick as well. Cut the head off a 1/4" bolt and cut a slit in it for the emery paper. However, I have found it works better in a hole than out in the open. The hole seems to hold it in place in the bolt's slit a little better. That is actually what I used to polish out the brake shoes' pivot holes on the side opposite the "S" cams on the tag axle.

Mike.
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Old 10-13-2015, 08:11 PM   #147
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Love this write up. Aqua hot maintenence is in my list this winter
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Old 10-14-2015, 07:08 AM   #148
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After discussing with Van last night I decided before buttoning the job up that I would wipe the antisieze off the rollers and "S" cams. My thinking was that it would keep the corrosion from building up but it can also cause the rollers to skip rather than roll on the "S" cams. Not a big deal but I thought it worth mentioning. I talked with a few of our heavy truck mechanics at work this morning and most don't put any lube on but there were two of my better ones that stated they put a little antisieze on the pivot points/axles of the rollers but that is about it.

Thanks for mentioning that Van.

Mike.
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Old 10-14-2015, 02:18 PM   #149
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Last night I completed the tag axle seals on our motorcoach.

After getting the shoes out of the way I started by removing the Stemco cover.


Then I removed the jam nut, locking tab, lock plate and bearing nut.


When I got this hub on the bench you can see it was just starting to leak as well.


Stemco cover, nuts and locking tab/plate cleaned and drying.


Hub cleaned and ready for the bearing to be reinstalled and the new seal.


These seals are an oil bath unitized style and require a special driver to avoid damage.


Here is the installation tool with the seal and the inner bearing loaded on it ready to installation. It is a good idea to coat the bearing with gear oil prior to installing it in the hub. The seal goes in dry.


As you are installting the seal this outer area is where the installation tool will be driving. You do NOT want to use a plate or block of wood that spans across the entire seal as the inner portion actually spins inside, which locks onto the spindle itself.


On the seal itself you will see one of two identifications. It will either say "air side" or "oil side". Place the seal accordingly.


Seal is installed. You will hear an audible change in tone when the seal bottoms out into position.


Once the seal is installed, I like to turn the inside to ensure it is not damaged and spins freely. It will have some resistance from the sealing surface inside the seal, you are checking to ensure it is free.


Now the hub with the inner bearing and seal can be installed. Be certain to line up as close as possible to avoid any side load or undue stress on the seal as it is a tight fit onto the spindle. Once pushed on as far as possible by hand, install the outer bearing (already coated in oil) and the spindle nut with the locking nub outward. Tighten the nut as you slowly draw the hub onto the spindle. Rotate the hub on occasion as it is being drawn onto the spindle.


Tighten the spindle nut to 200 ft/lbs while slowly rotating the hub.


At that point, back the spindle nut off one-turn. Then retighten to 50 ft/lbs. again while turning. Once you achieve 50 ft/lbs. back it off according to the specifications for your thread pitch and applications. In my case it was 1/4 turn. I ended up being closer to 3/8 of a turn backed off to achieve the recommended end play.


Once you get the spindle nut backed off the proper amount, install the lock ring onto the nub on the spindle nut. Make certain it is engaged in one of the holes, if it will not line up turn the lock ring over and as the holes are slightly offset side to side. At that point, install the locking tab and then the jam nut torqueing it to specification. In my application it was 300-400 ft./lbs, I landed on 350 ft/lbs.


Not quite done yet, although many mechanics lock it down here and call it good. The proper method is to confirm your end play. Specifications for most all of the heavy truck applications I have seen is .001"-.005" end play. I ended up at .0025" at each side.


Once proper end play is confirmed, bend over at least one (I use two) of the tabs to lock the jam nut into position.


Next install a new gasket and install the axle end lubrication cover.


Job completed as per TMC's RP-618 specifications.


Mike.
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Old 10-15-2015, 07:08 AM   #150
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Speaking as a ex Snap On dealer I would at your house every week to have a chat and look at the toys on the truck.
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Old 10-15-2015, 07:42 AM   #151
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Ole' buddy, Ole' Pal !!!!


Will you adopt me (and my coach !) ?!?!
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Old 10-15-2015, 10:22 AM   #152
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Speaking as a ex Snap On dealer I would at your house every week to have a chat and look at the toys on the truck.
Jim E
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Funny thing is we just got a new Snap-On dealer about six months ago. He was quite friendly at first, then I found out why. The last Snap-On dealer I had must have been able to retire early and told him about my purchases. When he asked me why I wasn't purchasing much after hearing how anal I am about my tool collection, I hated to tell him that most of my tool purchases were made over a 10-15 year span that for the most part ended about 10 years ago. I told him I don't buy much in the way of tools any longer with the exception of the specialty type tools that are needed with the new models out.

I did however, finally break down and bought the new Snap-On Torque/Angle torque wrenches in 3/8" and 1/2" drive several months back. Those are very nice torque wrenches.

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Ole' buddy, Ole' Pal !!!!


Will you adopt me (and my coach !) ?!?!
It is amazing how many people are up for adoption these days. Many post up their avaialability on my threads. Wonder why?

Mike.
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Old 10-15-2015, 02:42 PM   #153
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I'm holding out till I meet someone with a newer Prevost Marathon before I put myself up for adoption !
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Old 10-15-2015, 07:08 PM   #154
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I'm holding out till I meet someone with a newer Prevost Marathon before I put myself up for adoption !
Oh, now your being picky and throwing names around huh. So that's the way you want to play.

Mike.
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