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Old 09-02-2015, 09:50 AM   #85
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Mike, sorry to hear about the Home Depot screw up. I'm not fond of Home Depot either so I ordered my fridge from Geodeckers ,which worked well. Looks like you are ready to just set it in place when it arrives. I'll keep my fingers crossed for you.
Thanks Gary. By looking at the pictures does it looks similar to your friend's Dynasty that you guys did? Do you see anything that jumps out at you that I should address prior to stuffing the fridge in the hole?

Thanks.

Mike.
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Old 09-02-2015, 10:15 AM   #86
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Your opening looks identical to the 2003 DNY we did last fall, same wiring and vent his had, etc. Since you have double checked your measurements closely, I can't see anything but good results when fridge arrives.
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Old 09-02-2015, 11:17 AM   #87
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Your opening looks identical to the 2003 DNY we did last fall, same wiring and vent his had, etc. Since you have double checked your measurements closely, I can't see anything but good results when fridge arrives.
Thanks a ton Gary. To be honest when I removed the Norcold and floor of the cabinet and saw that shower drain and vent I thought that was going to be the achille's heel of the entire project. Last night after trimming some off the right side of the cabinet, getting the new sub-floor in place and measuring the back width I feel better about the placement of the new fridge.

I am glad I didn't have to do anything with that drain and vent becuase it would have been a nightmare as there abolutely nowhere else to move that shower drain.

Mike.
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Old 09-04-2015, 11:58 AM   #88
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It's in the hole!!!!! Sorry about my cheesy Caddyshack reference, but the refrigerator is installed and bolted down.

Here is the trim pieces that I painted the other night before closing up the shop.


Close up of the fitment to make it look like it came from the factory that way. Not shown here is the black touch up paint I added to the screw heads so they are not visible.


I blocked off the vent holes then ran some tape around the perimeter of the exterior vent cover and sprayed expanding foam insulation into the "mold". Again, bare with me, this is not my area of expertise.


While it was curing I stapled some garage door weatherstripping around all four sides of the exterior vent opening. My plan is when the cover is placed into the opening the gasket will seal up that small gap that may or may not be present to keep the outside temperatures, outside.


Here is a shot of the vent cover installed and the gasket material sealing off the perimeter. The wind was blowing quite hard outside yesterday while I was doing this modification and once I plugged the hole the wind was gone. I couldn't have planned it any better as the wind was blowing directly onto the street side of the coach where my vent is located. I feel confident that the area is sealed nicely. One thing I may do is find a cosmetically pleasing solution to add a fastener to each side of the vent cover from the exterior. Due to the foam insulation and the weatherstripping there is a slight bow in the exterior vent cover from the pressure of the foam against the gasket. A fastener on each of the two sides to pull it in tight would solve this and I really shouldn't have to get into the back side as often as I did with the absorption refrigerator to perform routine maintenance.


The delivery guys were great. Wish I could say the same thing for Home Depot. Anyway they showed up and were shocked when they asked where it needed to go and I pointed to the coach. One guy walked over to the door and said "it won't fit". I replied "politely" (I have been working on that due to my wife pointing it out) that I have measured multiple times and although it will be tight, it WILL fit, at least by my measurements and calculations. I asked if they minded while I removed the doors and freezer drawer and then if they could help me lift it into the coach. The driver said he would gladly remove the doors and he did. He stripped it down in no time, we then brought it right in the door. I told them I had it from there but he insisted on assembling the unit. We had just placed it inside the coach where the pilot/co-pilot chairs usually go until my son got home. I tipped each one of them and they were very grateful and said a tip was not necessary. OH BUT IT WAS!! I don't know if my son and I alone could have done that.

Here it is just inside the door of the coach, assembled and ready to go into its new home.


My son and I placed it in the cabinet and it slid right in. However, next up on the agenda was devising a way of bolting it down to the new cabinet floor so it stayed in its new home. My wife come home from work and I was lying on the floor staring at it. She asked if I was alright and was a bit concerned when I told her I was thinking.

I fabricated some mounting brackets that would mount to the floor and come out the front of the cabinet just to the side of the rollers so they would not interfere with the rollers going into the cabinet.


Here they are bolted to the floor and ready for the refrigerator to be installed for the last time. I was fortunate and took good notes and measurements as we only had to install the fridge once for mockup and then the final time.


One other detail I did just before installing the last time was to relocate my electrical outlets. I noticed they were right up against the back of the refrigerator when we installed it on the mockup run. I secured them to the floor of the cabinet and the one fed from the inverter was in the middle and easiest to access from the outside. The other is there if needed but I don't see a reason to need it. These will be flat and low enough to not interfere with anything on the back of the fridge.


It's in the hole for the second and last time. I then bent up some .188" thick metal stock to bolt the refrigerator directly to the floor via the mounting brackets. I removed the leveling feet from the refrigerator and used those locations to install these brackets bent @ 90-degrees and then bolted to the bottom floor mounted bracket.


The rear required a bit more thinking. I have seen some pictures on the internet where people just ran lag screws down into the floor but I wanted something that was going to spread the load out a bit more than merely a head of a screw plus there is a 1.5" gap under the refrigerator and my fear was the screw could potentially just pull through the floor of the fridge base.

I opted to place a 1.5" aluminum block under the rear of the refrigerator to give the base something with a little larger footprint and more square inches to disperse the weight over. I then made two "hold-down" brackets that I intentially made approx. .062" short. This will pull down onto those aluminum blocks and preload with some tension. The brackets are also 2" wide to spread that over more surface area.

Here are the two rear mounting brackets bent up, drilled and welded sitting on the bench ready for installation. They are merely leaning against my combination square for the picture.


Here are the two rear mounts firmly attached to the floor of the cabinet.




And here the fridge is basically installed and completed.


It was getting late last night so I plugged it in to make sure it worked. I also made sure I had plugged it into the correct recepticle for the inverter (like I said, it was getting late) and then killed the power to the coach to ensure it stayed on un-interrupted. Lastly after turning the power back on to the coach, I found out the circuit breaker for the fridge and labeled it as such so I will use that to turn the fridge off/on rather than remove the outside vent cover to unplug the unit.

Tonight I need to measure, and make the left side trim piece and paint it semi-gloss black to match the right side and top pieces. I aslo need to cut down the drawer fronts and cover the opening at the bottom with the wood panels/trim to make it look like it came from Monaco that way and put the bottom trim panel on the refrigerator. Lastly I will need to come up with a latch assembly for the doors and to fabricate a holding system for the interior of the refrigerator to keep things in place while traveling. Mainly so all of the contents don't spill out when the door is opened after traveling.

Mike.
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Old 09-04-2015, 09:36 PM   #89
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Nicely done!
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Old 09-04-2015, 09:47 PM   #90
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Nicely done!
Thank you.

Mike.
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Old 09-05-2015, 08:59 AM   #91
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Wow man. That's so awesome.
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Old 09-05-2015, 09:50 AM   #92
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Would you do mine? Just kidding. Very, very nice job. Looks incredible


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Old 09-05-2015, 10:26 AM   #93
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Wow man. That's so awesome.
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Would you do mine? Just kidding. Very, very nice job. Looks incredible


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Thanks guys, I really appreciate it. That is one job I am glad is behind me. I am NO carpenter.

Mike.
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Old 09-05-2015, 11:12 PM   #94
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Thanks guys, I really appreciate it. That is one job I am glad is behind me. I am NO carpenter.

Mike.
Mike, both of us are more comfortable with metalworking than cabinet-making. Nonetheless, you did your usual meticulously detailed job. I look at my own installation and think, "Geez, I wish I had Mike's attention to detail!" OTOH, my less-than-top-drawer installation has been working well for about a year. I'm sure you and your wife will love the new fridge!! Thanks from all of us for taking the time to document so thoroughly your installation.
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Old 09-05-2015, 11:14 PM   #95
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Table covers on your milling machine! You are indeed a craftsman. Kudos, Sir!
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Old 09-06-2015, 09:36 AM   #96
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Mike, both of us are more comfortable with metalworking than cabinet-making. Nonetheless, you did your usual meticulously detailed job. I look at my own installation and think, "Geez, I wish I had Mike's attention to detail!" OTOH, my less-than-top-drawer installation has been working well for about a year. I'm sure you and your wife will love the new fridge!! Thanks from all of us for taking the time to document so thoroughly your installation.
Thank you Van. Coming from someone with your abilities makes it the highest compliment. I put the last of the trim pieces on below the fridge yesterday and machined the .125"x1" aluminum strips for the retainers yesterday along with installing them. Thanks for the idea. I thought I had some .75" Delrin but all I had was .5" solid and some .750" ODx .375" ID. I will have to order me some to complete the restraints. Wife already started loading it yesterday in preparation for the next trip. She seems to be happy with it so far.

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Table covers on your milling machine! You are indeed a craftsman. Kudos, Sir!
Nothing special, just some .375" neoprene/rubber mats that I cut and notched around the mill vise. I know there is always that possibility of dropping a drill chuck or part and dinging the table so at least by having some covers on the mill table it will prolong the "new" look for a while. I also prefer to set my tools and measuring instruments on the rubber mats vs. the metal table. I need to machine some small blocks for the backside of them to engage into the "T" slots as they do move around on occassion when they are bumped.

Thanks again for the idea on the internal restraints Van. I definitely think they will add that "kool" factor.

Mike.
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Old 09-07-2015, 08:29 AM   #97
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Final picture of the refrigerator installation. I was able to take a door panel off of the old Norcold refrigerator and cut it down for the trim. I just need to locate some walnut plugs for the screw holes.


I then started working on some restraints for the inside of the refrigerator to hold items while traveling down the road and they don't end up on the floor when the refrigerator door is opened. I have seen many people use the spring loaded curtain rods and they seem to be happy with them but I wanted something that "locked" into a track of sort. Something more positive that friction alone. I got this idea from a friend on this site, thanks Van.

I started with some .125"x1" aluminum strips 12" long each and trued up the ends in the mill after saw cutting them.


If I were to merely drill through with the overhang out of the mill vise they would flex and the hole would not be true so I put one of my newly machined screw jacks under the end and clamped them together.


I drilled a .375" hole on 1" centers then came back through with a .50" end mill to true up the holes. This created a nice sharp edge for the spring rods (that I will fabricate next) to snap into.


I machined four at a time. Once I removed them I simply deburred them and they were ready for the 3M double sided automotive tape.


3M automotive tape applied after wiping/cleaning with some acetone.


Next task was to take an Exacto knife and remove the double sided tape where each of the holes were located.


Lastly, I decided on placement in the refrigerator and wiped the sides down with alcohol to remove any residue and promote adhesion. I did all this before I turned the refrigerator on also to aid adhesion.


Once applied, I turned the new refrigerator on and let it get to it's setpoint temperatures, which it did in short order. A few hours was all it took to get the refrigerator box to 38* and the freezer to -2* F.

The wife has already started to load items into it and hopefully it will provide years of trouble free service. In all honesty the Norcold did provide a long life as far as RV refrigerators go, but it was time to replace it before it actually quit on one of our trips and left us scrambling. The last trip was stressful whether it and we were planning on replacing it next spring anyways, we just bumped up the replacement a few months.

Now I need to order some items from McMaster Carr and I can complete the restraint rods for the inside and I need to come up with a door restraint solution for while traveling.

Mike.
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Old 09-07-2015, 08:55 AM   #98
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Next up on the agenda for the weekend was to tackle my generator issue. On the last trip I fired up the Onan 10kW genset to power the roof air units, as it was nearing 100-degrees while traveling through central Utah and into SW Colorado, where it would run for a few minutes and then shut down. At the time I was getting a code 36 which is kind of a generic code for something is allowing the engine to drop below a preset RPM and the control board would shut it down.

I didn't want to tear into it until the fridge installation was complete because we have a trip coming up and I didn't want two incomplete jobs torn apart at once. Saturday I started troubleshooting it checking things like fuel flow/volume, air filter, fuel filter, etc. All things that could drop the engine RPM and everything checked out. I decided to try to run it without all of the background noise that we had at the truck stop I pulled into to troubleshoot in Utah the trip before. Once it started and ran for approx. 5-8 seconds and shut down it did NOT sound like it was starving for fuel and it did not sound like the RPM was dropping. In fact, it started crisply and then bumped in RPM to it's setpoint almost instantly then shut-down.

I had already removed the top and side covers to gain access to the components.


I grabbed my meter at this point and backprobed the fuel solenoid wiring to see if the fuel solenoid was the issue OR if I was losing my voltage to the fuel solenoit. Sure enough, once it fired up I was loosing my voltage to the solenoid thus allowing the fuel solenoid to close and shut down the engine. I decided to check codes again and this time I was getting a Code 13 (undervoltage). I had not gotten that code in the past so this was new. The Onan troubleshooting chart was a complete waste, it stated to reduce the power consumption or load on the genset. There was NO load on the genset. That was all for the troubleshooting as far as the Onan service manual was concerned.

I then had to think back to what the control board is seeing that it doesn't like or not seeing that it should see. There is a small cover that houses the junction box for the output of the genset to where it connects to the wiring that heads to the transfer switch. I opened this access cover up and took some readings. You want to place your black lead on the white (common) wire and the red lead on either the black or the red lead of the output.

Here I tested the red first and got 56 VAC.


Next I tested the black lead and registered 1.3 VAC. This took staring the genset, hurrying and taking a reading before it shut down and then moving the test leads and repeating.




Okay, at this point I have come to a couple of conclusions. First, I had open windings in the stator and therefore not creating the electrical field inside the genset. I doubt this is my problem because it would run for a few minutes and put out voltage/current before shutting down on the last trip. I tested the output connections and they tested good. Secondly, I could have a control board not sending the exciting voltage to the rotor (field) and thus not exciting the field. Thirdly, I could have the brushes not making a good connection with the slip rings. This was what my gutt was telling me based on the fact that it has just under 3k hours on the genset.
I removed the front cover to gain access to the brush holder and stuck a straight pick into the brush hole and marked the depth. You can see the hole at the end of the pick in which I stuck it down into to measure. You can also see the Sharpie mark on the pick. This measure just under 1" which indicates the brushes are getting quite worn and should be replaced.


Next I thought I would see if the brushes were gummed up or stuck in the holder and reached in to gain access to one of the wires with a 90-degree pick and "flicked" the brush so it snapped back in against the slip rings. I did this to each of the two brushes.


The brushes did not give the indication that they were stuck or gummed up, so I decided to start the genset and check voltage output after snapping the brushes against the slip rings a couple of times.
BINGO!!! We now have voltage on both output circuits @ 120 VAC. That is going to be a lot cheaper than a new control board. Now I need to contact my local Cummins/Onan dealer and see if they have a couple of new brushes in stock, replace them and I am back in business generating power.

I will show picks of the brush replacement once I obtain a new set of brushes.

Mike.
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