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Old 03-21-2019, 04:25 PM   #1
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Monaco door

Howdy,

I have a 2003 Monaco Camelot and I can't figure out to prop the door open. I've been to RV shows and they had doors held open but I can't figure out how to do that on this coach.

I just know there's a simple method, but I've been through the book until my eyes are nearly crossed. What am I missing?

Thanks and Happy Trails to you.
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Old 03-21-2019, 04:54 PM   #2
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Hi ! Welcome to IRV2! We're sure glad you joined the gang!

Noticed that you are kinda new on IRV2 and wanted to say hello.

That coach should have come with a scissors arm at the top to restrict the outward motion and latch it in place. They were a PITA and most folks have replaced them with something better, such as the gas struts. Look at the thread below and maybe it will give you some ideas. Have fun and keep her between the ditches!

Gas door prop installed!

Good luck, happy trails, and God bless!
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Old 03-21-2019, 05:16 PM   #3
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Thanks, I thought so but maybe it's stuck because I haven't figured out to work it. A gas strut sounds like a plan so I'll look into that. BTW, no link at the bottom, could you repost that.

Thanks again.
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Old 03-21-2019, 06:35 PM   #4
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Hey guys; I kept finagling with it until I slipped up & fingered it out. I'm definitely going to change to a gas strut.

Thanks again & happy trails
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Old 03-21-2019, 07:32 PM   #5
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The gas shock is a great idea. Just hate that scissor thing on the door. Well worn out and I keep repairing it until I now see this. Thanks so much, that scissor things days are numbered now.
Who says you can't teach an old dog new tricks!!!
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Old 03-22-2019, 10:23 AM   #6
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My door does the same, been thinking about going with gas shock.
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Old 03-22-2019, 03:52 PM   #7
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Hi to all reading this post. Yes, the scissors arm is not the greatest thing in the world, but I have found a way to make mine work. The biggest problem seem to be getting the detent in one of the arm to lock into the depression of the other arm. I make a big mistake when I first got the coach was lubing all parts of the scissor mechanism. The door would not latch into the detent. I cleaned all the lube off the arm. Next I opened the door so the detent was sticking out so I could put a crescent wrench on it. I just kept bending the arm so it applied more pressure to the detent when the door was fully opened. You can hear the scrape in the scissors mechanism when one arm comes into contact with the other and locks into the detent. Not the greatest fix but has work for years except in a big gust of wind will over ride the detent and shut the door. I think the gas prop is one of the nicest fixes for the door. Don't try to put too much of a bend in the arm or you will have problems with the pin that hinges both arms together. I just keep the pins in the scissor mechanism sparely lubricated. Just thought I would post this info. Everyone have a great weekend!
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Old 03-23-2019, 06:14 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8.3Oilbuner View Post
Hi to all reading this post. Yes, the scissors arm is not the greatest thing in the world, but I have found a way to make mine work. The biggest problem seem to be getting the detent in one of the arm to lock into the depression of the other arm. I make a big mistake when I first got the coach was lubing all parts of the scissor mechanism. The door would not latch into the detent. I cleaned all the lube off the arm. Next I opened the door so the detent was sticking out so I could put a crescent wrench on it. I just kept bending the arm so it applied more pressure to the detent when the door was fully opened. You can hear the scrape in the scissors mechanism when one arm comes into contact with the other and locks into the detent. Not the greatest fix but has work for years except in a big gust of wind will over ride the detent and shut the door. I think the gas prop is one of the nicest fixes for the door. Don't try to put too much of a bend in the arm or you will have problems with the pin that hinges both arms together. I just keep the pins in the scissor mechanism sparely lubricated. Just thought I would post this info. Everyone have a great weekend!
X2 Had to bend mine down 2 times in 14 years on my Dynasty...worked well. Had to do the same on my “new” rig last year. After 3 months of snowbirding it’s still working well and doubt I’ll have to bend it again for several years. Cleaning any lubricant from the contact area is a good idea...it neede the friction.

I get a chuckle out of some of complicated repairs with new pivots or even replacing with a gas strut when cleaning and bending the detent down solves the problem. Your mileage may vary.
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Old 03-24-2019, 10:49 AM   #9
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Thanks, Ivylog, for the input. Yea, I always subscribe to the KISS method as well. I finally realized I just had to pull down harder to get the catch to slip & latch.

But I think later I will likely add a gas strut to it for assist & additional support of rapid closing.

Happy Trails
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Old 03-25-2019, 05:09 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joeb212 View Post
Thanks, Ivylog, for the input. Yea, I always subscribe to the KISS method as well. I finally realized I just had to pull down harder to get the catch to slip & latch.

But I think later I will likely add a gas strut to it for assist & additional support of rapid closing.

Happy Trails
I made a more permanent fix to our swing arm that does not require bending the arm to improve the detent. I call it my redneck fix and it has been working great for a year now. I smile every time I open the door and feel that detent. If we want the door to stay open we just push a little harder and the detent snaps into place. I little tug will release it. My theory is that the wear on the rivet is a non linear process and once it becomes loose there is minimal wear. When the rivet reaches that point the detent is too loose to be effective. Bending the arm will cause clearance issues between the door and the frame sometimes resulting in a rattle. We did the bending trick for awhile until the rattle got on my nerves. I can't bring myself to install the gas piston on the outside of the door. Besides looking out of place it can cause wind noise. I believe Drifter installed the strut internally but I have not been able to find details on how he did it.

I will warn you that if you decide to modify your swing arm with my redneck fix you will need a carbon tipped drill bit. The swing arm is stainless steel and quite hard. Also, unless you remove the swing arm to make the mod you will be standing on a ladder to drill the hole. Find a drill bit that is almost as large in diameter as the screw you decide to use. I used a 10-24 panhead screw. You need a pan head screw to raise the detent. Drill a hole in the center of the detent mound and apply red locktite to the screw and screw it into the hole you just drilled. The attached photo should help explain the mod.

Another convenient mod you can make to the swing arm is to add poly nuts so the arm can be removed and replaced without drilling out and replacing blind rivets. I will add two photos showing the poly nuts and the arm with the poly nuts installed. A special tool is required to install the poly nuts but you could make your own from a threaded rod and nuts.

Bob
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Old 03-25-2019, 05:26 PM   #11
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Our older Dynasty has the scissors thing at the top, but unlatches to close the same way it does to open from the inside. Simply pull the door latch handle and the door will close. Perhaps sometimes older is better, assuming it is supposed to work that way.

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Old 03-26-2019, 03:55 AM   #12
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Thanks, Nodine, I'll give that a try. It looks like a good solution.

I agree, I really don't like the idea of adding a strut outside, but haven't seen a way to add inside.
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