Money down the drain?? Holding tank chemicals

[Larry Geese]

I have always used the special holding tank chemicals for my black water tank. These special chemicals are expensive compared to Simple Green, 409, Dawn dish soap, Grease Cutters etc.
I just bought a gallon jug of Enviro-Chem for $18.00 plus tax.
Question is: Do we really need these special "expensive" holding tank chemicals?
Larry

[Bill Adams]

No. In most cases you don't need any chemicals of any kind in any of your holding tanks. You also don't need any special toilet paper. It is not a septic tank, just a holding tank. Use it that way and you will be fine. Keep the black tank closed at all times unless you are ready to dump and you should dump when you have at least 1/2 tank to ensure a good flushing. If I am going to be dry camping for an extended period of time I use very little water with each flush so I can extend the dump time. In these cases I might put a little Happy Camper in the black tank but I have had one bucket of this stuff for over 2 years and I think I have a 1/2 bucket left.

[bdpreece]

I installed cyclone vents on the sewer vents and have not found any need to use holding tank chemicals since. I also use Awesome cleaners from the Dollar Store to wash the motorhome and a mixture of baby shampoo and Dawn dish detergent on the dog. I am saving so much money I may be able to purchase a new Monaco soon.

[BryanL]

There is one chemical you need to make sure is in your holding tank in sufficient quantity to keep waste covered: dihydrogen monoxide (DHMO). Some consider it extremely dangerous, but then, water is an interesting substance and people do drown in it.

If you have any smells inside, it means you have a leak. You sink traps may have dried out and not have any of that DHMO in them, your toilet gasket may not be seated properly, or your vent lines may have a problem.

[caymann]

money down the drain.

[Galvanizd]

I too agree. Money down the drain. I keep a small amount of "stuff" for when we're on extended dry camping, but mostly a good rinse job is all that's needed.

[Route 66]

Money down the drain.

All of those chemicals are a solution to a non-existent problem.

[katoommaster]

I agree with all BUT the only thing I found with using house paper is the house paper is thicker and there for you may get a wall stick unless you flush the system real good when you dump. If all the paper does not come out you may get a false reading on your gauges.

[Knotdodger]

We don't use it and we've never had any problems.

[TandW]

I have decided to cross-connect the black and the fuel tanks and begin fueling the rv with with methane. The exhaust will be routed through the fuel tank to incubate the mixture. This modification should eliminate foul odors for good!!

[TandW]

I forgot to mention that with this set-up Flying J will never see me again!!

[Ingrid]

We just use a little mild low sudsing detergent that smells nice. We don't move our 5th Wheel from site to site, which can be an issue since the sloshing of liquids during transportation helps loosen everything up inside the tank. Originally, we used very little water on each flush to extend dump time. Once after we dumped, the holding tank was empty but still reading full, and the toilet was backing up as we tried flushing the system from the toilet end with a wand. Somewhere between the toilet and the tank there was blockage and the "contents" came right up to the edge of the toilet before we finally managed to clear it. One more minute and we would have had a real mess on our hands . We don't take chances anymore. We use toilet paper recommended for sceptic systems (it's softer and disolves more easily) and flush with plenty of water every time to make sure everything travels to the tank. We find when the tank is frequently filled then emptied, we have no odors or blockage. It might just be the way our plumbing is laid out (it seems to deviate before leading towards the tank). I just don't want a repeat of that experience, and if it means having to dump more often, to avoid a most unpleasant experience, then so be it.

[MtManLee]

We tried regular paper in two ply and our system clogged up we have used single ply tissue since and have yet to have a problem.

[wa8yxm]

DO we really need those expensive chemicals... Well, if I were selling them I would say YES, of course.. But since I do not sell them.. The answer is NO.. You do not.

I have 3 different holding tank treatments in this rig just now.. well really 4 I will describe them

1: Standard chemical with Formaldehyde. Still in it's shrink wrap, came free with rig 5 years ago. If I ever take it out of the cabinet I'll either turn it over to haz-mat disposal or give it back to the dealer who gave it to me

Odorlos.. I've one treatment left I think.. I do use this when boondocking, do not know if it does any good but it's left over and next time I boondock I'll dump the rest of it in the tank,, This is a combination deorderant and biological, none of the key ingreadent listed in the first paragraph

"Waste Digester" (A generic) Basically yeast from what I understand,, Just biological.. Again I'll use it up.. Slowly.. When boondocking

Biologicals may help to liquify and that can not hurt.. Don't know if it helps though

WATER.. What I use most of the time..

I also use Dawn (DIshwashing liquid) Regular type, and Calgon once or twice a year for a real good cleaning.. used to use it on the last trip of the season.

Dump, Rinse, add 1/2 cup each of the above, add six gallons of water (Size of my water jug) drive 50 miles or so, dump and rinse again.

That will SOMETIEMS clean the sensors off well enough.

How do I clean the sensors so the tank shows empty.... Well, I built my own but look up the Valterra Master Blaqster.. That (And perhaps the RV-Twister wand) will do it.