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Old 04-01-2012, 08:02 AM   #15
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Crah:
Thanks for the feedback. I believe you are correct. The bars that did not fit your coach are the ones for my RR8S. The kit RR8S kit includes the shocks, sway bars, and steering stabilizer. The air bags don't change.
I'll look forward to your feedback after a longer trip.
Stay safe.
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Old 04-01-2012, 01:27 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dunner
I went for a 130 mile drive today. No sway when a truck passed me going the same direction, but I did feel the air he was pushing as he went by. Hit the drunk bumps a couple times while looking at my scan gauge and the recovery was uneventful. You guys have, what, 36' DPs. Mine's a little bitty 32'er. You make me feel like I should be blown around like a ping-pong ball.

BTW, I did the "Cheap Handling Fix" on mine.
Hey dunner, not sure if you have the f53 or the workhorse chassis but you 32 fter has the engine in the front and may have even the same wheel base. Not really sure. What did you do for your cheap handling fix? I think our chassis are apples to oranges though.
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Old 04-01-2012, 03:17 PM   #17
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crah, you don't have to read the whole thread, but there are pictures on several pages of what was done. Basically, the links from the anti-sway bar are moved from the front to the rear hole on the bar. Here is a pic of my front and rear sway bars.





http://www.irv2.com/forums/f23/cheap...fix-72335.html



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Old 04-02-2012, 05:33 PM   #18
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Makes sure you let Jim at Source know about the welding issue as that is a quality control issue that he will have to give Wayne at RoadMaster heck about. They are great guys and I am sure they will try to make it up to you somehow but I know that doesn't help any when you are under the MH trying to get everything together.....I do know that with my MH because my kit was done in stages that I noticed improvements in each step of the install and once it was all done I seemed to appreciate it more and more each trip as you encountered different conditions that I noticed improvements....

CHEERS

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Old 04-02-2012, 06:25 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dunner
crah, you don't have to read the whole thread, but there are pictures on several pages of what was done. Basically, the links from the anti-sway bar are moved from the front to the rear hole on the bar. Here is a pic of my front and rear sway bars.

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f23/cheap...fix-72335.html
Thanks Dunner. I'm actually familiar with your mod bit a typical diesel pusher doesn't have sway bars due to the air ride suspension. The ones I got are popular with the roadmaster chassis. But regardless just like the gas chassis it has the same function. I will have to log more miles to give a better assessment.
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Old 04-02-2012, 06:27 PM   #20
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Thanks DC for your comment. I've been mostly working with Scott and have no qualms. They are all great guys including Wayne who called me on Sunday. I guess I was more frustrated trying to button things up.

What type and size tires are you riding on? Do you have any steering stabilizer?
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Old 04-02-2012, 06:30 PM   #21
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Just got back home from Desert Hot Springs (the land of the GIANT windmills for electricity) the wind was reaching gusts of over 50 miles an hour. At times we were headed into the wind and had a hard time going over 40 miles per hour unless we wanted the EGT to go crazy (1250*). Part of the time we had the wind on our passenger side. The coach leaned slightly, but we had no problem controlling the coach with the sway bars. I've been in these winds before and it was no picnic. Then the coach was pushed left and right. We also have the Safe T Plus which I'm sure helped a lot in these winds. The windmills were happy with the breeze. deSanford
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Old 04-02-2012, 09:35 PM   #22
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Talking Sway bars arrived

My bars arrived at 3:30 this afternoon. I brought the front set home from the office. It took two hours total to install. You really need a 1/2 inch impact wrench to get the axel bolts off. I used the air from the MH which has enough pressure but not nearly enough volume so I ran the engine. I won't do that for the rear set though. Just too much fumes.

I didn't have any help so could have done it in 1 hour rather easily and less time if the instructions were not so poor. The pictures are really bad and the instructions not well written. The bars and hardware are first class. It would be a real help if Source would post pictures of the installs with fresh pictures instead of poor copies. Just a suggestion.

I did not install the rear ones yet but took it for a drive. Wow what a nice improvement. Things may come out of the cabinets if I am not careful. I will definitely enlist some help when doing the rear ones. The other thing that slowed me down was doing it on asphalt. The creeper just does not work well on a rough surface. My shop has nice concrete floors so that is where the rears will be installed. Here's the happy dance.
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Old 04-02-2012, 10:24 PM   #23
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Use a poor mans creeper; Cardboard. A washing machine/drier/fridge box works great.

Use a household fan, horizontal, under the rear of your MH.



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Old 04-02-2012, 10:36 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YC1 View Post
My bars arrived at 3:30 this afternoon. I brought the front set home from the office. It took two hours total to install. You really need a 1/2 inch impact wrench to get the axel bolts off. I used the air from the MH which has enough pressure but not nearly enough volume so I ran the engine. I won't do that for the rear set though. Just too much fumes.

I didn't have any help so could have done it in 1 hour rather easily and less time if the instructions were not so poor. The pictures are really bad and the instructions not well written. The bars and hardware are first class. It would be a real help if Source would post pictures of the installs with fresh pictures instead of poor copies. Just a suggestion.

I did not install the rear ones yet but took it for a drive. Wow what a nice improvement. Things may come out of the cabinets if I am not careful. I will definitely enlist some help when doing the rear ones. The other thing that slowed me down was doing it on asphalt. The creeper just does not work well on a rough surface. My shop has nice concrete floors so that is where the rears will be installed. Here's the happy dance.
Good to hear YC1. The back ones are a little tougher, and I got it done alone with the help of some bungy cords. Drilling the holes are a pain and quite a work out. You won't have to loosen anything in the back, but the air impact wrench is nice to use on the shackle bracket. Muscling in the sway bar is a little tougher than the front, as the front you can rest on the axle, and not much is in the way. My approach with the rear because I had to do it twice was to do it this way: Imagine facing the driver side rear tire. Have the sway bar in a C shape facing back towards you when you are facing the driver side. Your position when doing this will be in front of the differential and closer to the driver sides. Tilt the left side (while facing the drivers side), up and over the differential and start swinging the entire sway bar into position and rest of top of the differential/drive shaft. Now take a rest and either get a spare hand or get creative with a bungy cord. I bungy corded one side (raising it up high as I could ge it, and moved to the other side and lifted the bar and tightend one of the nuts to keep one side of the sway bar up. Another step I forgot to mention after you drill the holes/or while you are drilling. There are wire looms above the holes you will drill. I put the metal bracket above the hole drilling to protect the wires while you drill through. Others have also mentioned removing some hanger brackets to move the wire looms to install the brackets. I ended up using a open wrench and weding the wires up while getting the bolts down through the hole. It worked for me, but you may or may not have enough slack. You really don't need that much moved. Just enought to slip that bolt in there and use your fingers to tilt the bolt up enough to drop down the hole. The hole, and positioning and mounting the bar is the toughest part. The rest of the connections is a piece of cake unless you have to grind like I did. Good luck.
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Old 04-02-2012, 10:43 PM   #25
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YC1,

Was your front bar mounted facing forward (the C part facing foward or towards the back of the coach)? They make the installation both ways depending on the position of your front air tank. Just curious.
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Old 04-03-2012, 09:29 PM   #26
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Thanks for the great advice Crah. I was thinking about having the rear ones installed with a check book but being frugal (cheap) and mostly curious I decided to tackle it this afternoon after reading the suggestion. I used squeeze clamps instead of bunjies to hold things up. Drilling the holes was not the most difficult part. I used a long squeeze type clamp hung on the frame and the bottom part up against the drill. I too placed a back plate above to protect the wires. As I drilled I squeezed the clamp and the new sharp bit ate right through. As suggested I was wearing a hard hat, coveralls, gloves, and eye protection of course. I use a mountain climbers helmet with a head light on it. Every spot of grease indicates the lack of a lump that would have caused foul language to eminate from beneath. The light is handy of course.

As for the front install, the C is facing forward. I have the Safe-T_Plus on the back side so that might have caused issue if installed there. While we are on that subject, I built my own trim kit for it and it works great. Any wind or crown in the road is trimmed out.

The rear took some muscle and I will feel it more tomorrow. Right now I'm enjoying the fruits of my labor after the incredible test drive.

Question on the rear. The bolts that go through the front of the C bar on each side and the ones that bottom out on the bracket that goes over the bottom frame were the same length. I am going to change the ones that go on the bottom shackle because they have about 1/2 inch of the shank hanging out. That does not seem like a good plan. What say you?

Thanks everyone. With this great support group my MH now goes down the road almost hands free as it should have from the factory. Shame on them for not making them this road worthy from the start.

Now what am I going to do next?


Oh yeah, moan and groan for a few days. Ouch. If it doesn't hurt, it probably doesn't work.
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Old 04-03-2012, 10:39 PM   #27
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YC1, good to hear you got it done and yes you will probably feel it tomorrow lol. I asked about the front sway bar C position because my c faces back towards the rear. I suspected that maybe some of the longer coaches faces forward. The real reason is the air tank position. Mine is in front of the axle so the bars can't face that way. When I was installing, I was debating on the effectiveness in this position. I think facing forward would provide more rigid strength. Perhaps that's why the shorter coaches don't get as good of results. As for your rear shackle bolts, by are supposed to be all the same length. Are you sure it is bottoming out? When mine is tightened all the way perhaps less than 1/16 of an inch protrudes past the thread. You should be able to physically see it on the back side. I eyeballed it before I installed it and the length should be perfect. I did notice that it acted like it bottomed out and when I removed the entire shackle and tried to thread the bolt it would do the same. I thought maybe I cross threaded it but I didn't. It a t like a locker bolt. Basically to get it in all the way, I had to use my impact wrench. Should be he same for you.
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Old 04-03-2012, 11:30 PM   #28
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Quote:
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Thanks DC for your comment. I've been mostly working with Scott and have no qualms. They are all great guys including Wayne who called me on Sunday. I guess I was more frustrated trying to button things up.

What type and size tires are you riding on? Do you have any steering stabilizer?
I never had a chance to meet Scott but did talk to him on the phone and Jim came up to RoadMasters factory for a day when we were doing the R&D on my Windsor. I spent most of the time with Wayne from RM and he was great to deal with.
I have 2.95's on the frt and yes I do have a Saft-Plus steering stabilizer but it was on the MH when we bought it so I have no pure stock base to compare to so any comments I have are based on the Sway Bars & Bilstein shocks only and as I have stated before the difference on my MH was huge.

CHEERS
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