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02-19-2019, 09:18 PM
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#29
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Senior Member
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 235
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If airlines were frozen you should be able to tell by looking, the slack adjusters would not move.For every ones info if airlines are ever frozen just pour a little methyl hydrate into a line after the drier to thaw out line. Old trucker tip from an old trucker. Don
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02-20-2019, 03:54 PM
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#30
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: OKC
Posts: 567
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OP, any updates? Did you figure out if your lines are frozen, or if your brakes are seized?
__________________
2011 Jayco Embark Super C
Cummins 8.3 350
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02-20-2019, 03:58 PM
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#31
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Senior Member
Holiday Rambler Owners Club
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Weeki Wachee
Posts: 135
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I’m going to work on it tomorrow it’s been raining. I don’t believe my lines are frozen because I live in Florida and we haven’t had a freeze. I’m going to try to hit a pad and see if I can loosen it up I will let you know tomorrow thank you.
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02-20-2019, 08:21 PM
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#32
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 2,186
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Quote:
Originally Posted by allbrand1999
I’m going to work on it tomorrow it’s been raining. I don’t believe my lines are frozen because I live in Florida and we haven’t had a freeze. I’m going to try to hit a pad and see if I can loosen it up I will let you know tomorrow thank you.
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I think you will need a large hammer and a drift of some sort
Something like a hefty steel rod or a long 1/2 " extension .
My experience was I had to really bang on the shoes .
Have the parking brake off so the shoes can move when hit .
Next time chock the wheels and don't set the brake
Eventually the air will leak down and the brake will set itself ,
hopefully the brakes will be dry by then so they wont rust .
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02-20-2019, 09:34 PM
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#33
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 35,349
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Quote:
Originally Posted by allbrand1999
I’m going to work on it tomorrow it’s been raining. I don’t believe my lines are frozen because I live in Florida and we haven’t had a freeze. I’m going to try to hit a pad and see if I can loosen it up I will let you know tomorrow thank you.
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Don't hit the actual brake block or pad, hit the edge of the metal shoe.
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02-20-2019, 10:08 PM
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#34
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Senior Member
Monaco Owners Club Vintage RV Owners Club
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: anywhere U.S.A, Currently back home in Thailand!
Posts: 4,245
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The brake shoes will rust to the backing plate, not to the drum! They might stick to the drum with ice/moisture between the drum and the brake shoes, but to rust to the drum, the linings would have to be very worn very thin to get the rivets close enough to rust!
Why you should have your brakes serviced regularly to lube the friction points where your brake shoes rub against the backing plate!
A good smack with a big hammer or a bar on the drum or the metal part of the shoe will break them loose!
Make sure the wheels are chocked good! Rail!
__________________
Retired, and "Always on Holiday!"
1996 Monaco Windsor 38PB, "Mona" 275 HP., 8.3 Cummins, 3060 Allison 6 speed, 2001 PT Cruiser, "Bailey"
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02-21-2019, 03:20 AM
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#35
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 35,349
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Quote:
Originally Posted by guardrail53
The brake shoes will rust to the backing plate, not to the drum! They might stick to the drum with ice/moisture between the drum and the brake shoes, but to rust to the drum, the linings would have to be very worn very thin to get the rivets close enough to rust!
Why you should have your brakes serviced regularly to lube the friction points where your brake shoes rub against the backing plate!
A good smack with a big hammer or a bar on the drum or the metal part of the shoe will break them loose!
Make sure the wheels are chocked good! Rail!
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Many air brakes systems don't have backing plates and the ones that do are just dust covers. No contact with the shoes.
The shoe anchors are 1/2 round and the moving end has a roller. Aside from the drum, the only thing holding the shoes on is springs.
The friction material does rust ( stick ) to the drum. There are steel fibers in semi metalic pads.
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02-21-2019, 07:46 AM
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#36
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Senior Member
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Orlando, Florida
Posts: 5,819
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A lot of this thread was assuming your brakes where frozen. But since you are in FL that is unlikely. I'm not sure if anyone realized you are in Fl until your last post.
I would start by seeing if the parking brake (the Spring brake) is releasing. Hearing the air dump doesn't mean both Springs brakes are released.
You probably look under the coach and see the "slack adjuster" and then have someone release the parking brake. When the brake releases you should see the slack adjuster move as it releases pressure against the brake shoes.
If you can get under the coach (wheels chocked) with brakes released you can stick a big screw drive or pry bar into the space where the pushrod clevis connects to the slack adjusted and you should be able to move the pushrod/slack adjuster about 1/2".
We are all assuming the brakes are frozen or "rust jacked" but it could be something else - so first step is to see if slack adjuster moves. And if your under coach moving slack adjuster you can probably see if the brake shoes are moving when you pry the slack adjuster in-out.
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02-21-2019, 11:42 AM
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#37
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Registered User
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Blairsville, GA & WPB, FL
Posts: 3,993
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Pretty sure his drive axle (the one with the dual air chamber activated parking brake) is disk. You can still hit the pad to try and break it loose.
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02-21-2019, 12:11 PM
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#38
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Senior Member
Holiday Rambler Owners Club
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Weeki Wachee
Posts: 135
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Up date I was able to look at and hit brake shoes. Looks like the one on passenger side rear is sticking.
I was able to move it back words about 2 ft. And there is a rubber mark on concrete skid mark. I will continue to work on it what about spraying the brake shoes with WD-40 or rust buster? And I will check the parking brake arm.
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02-21-2019, 01:32 PM
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#39
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Kamloops, BC, 60 miles from the Center of the Universe according to the Rinpoche, of the SF monks.
Posts: 7,321
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Quote:
Originally Posted by allbrand1999
Up date I was able to look at and hit brake shoes. Looks like the one on passenger side rear is sticking.
I was able to move it back words about 2 ft. And there is a rubber mark on concrete skid mark. I will continue to work on it what about spraying the brake shoes with WD-40 or rust buster? And I will check the parking brake arm.
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Noooo! Not a good idea to put any kind of lubrication on brake shoes.
You are in the right line with smacking it with a punch and BFH!
Good luck.
Happy Glamping.
__________________
Happy Glamping, Norman & Elna. 2008 Winnebago Adventurer 38J, W24, dozens of small thirsty ponies. Retired after 40 years wrenching on trucks! 2010 Ford Ranger toad with bicycles or KLR 650 in the back. Easy to spot an RVer, they always walk around with a screwdriver or wrench in one hand!
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02-21-2019, 02:24 PM
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#40
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Senior Member
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Orlando, Florida
Posts: 5,819
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Just be sure the Spring Brake is released on that wheel before you spend too much time beating on the lining.
If you had a blown diaphragm in the spring brake chamber the brake would not release (but you would also hear air leaking out).
Can you confirm if you have Disc brakes or Drum brakes in the rear? I Assume drum since you are talking about hitting the lining.
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02-21-2019, 02:50 PM
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#41
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Senior Member
Holiday Rambler Owners Club
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Weeki Wachee
Posts: 135
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Okay good news. 1st a big thank you to all that helped with this problem. After hitting the rear brake pads with a hammer and rocking the unit really hard back and forward it broke loose. I can now move back and forward. Okay so lesson learned move a few feet every month when starting gen and motor. Thank you again!!!!🤪🤪🤪🤪🤪
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02-21-2019, 02:51 PM
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#42
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Senior Member
Holiday Rambler Owners Club
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Weeki Wachee
Posts: 135
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FYI front disc and rear drum know brakes on tag.
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