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Old 12-05-2018, 05:30 AM   #1
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My First Maintenance Project

This weekend I'm going to attempt the oil and fluid changes on a 2003 Monaco Windsor. It has the ISL 300 Cummins with Pac Break.

The story on this is that the unit was my parent's. My wife and I decided to buy it from my mother after my father passed away this year. He was pretty good about maintenance so I want to continue that tradition and keep this coach alive and well for many years of enjoyment.

Here's my plan:
Engine oil and filter changes
Generator oil and filter change
Generator coolant flush and change

With those I'm reasonably confident.
But here's one question: It's getting cold in Florida this weekend. (30s-40s at night) Should I warm the engine before draining the oil? Also warm the generator?

Here's a few I could use some help with.

ENGINE COOLANT FLUSH AND CHANGE

CHASSIS LUBE
Is there a diagram as to where the grease fittings would be?

PAC BRAKE
I read in the info that the PB requires no maintenance if the unit is exercised properly. There are 2 spots that can be lubed with silicone spray. Anyone ever had to do this?

SLIDE OUT MECHANISM LUBE/MAINTENANCE.
My mother said my dad did this but after crawling around in the storage bays, I can see some surface rust on the gears and armature for the front 2 slides. I know the rear it's under the bed so I can't see those.

AWNING MECHANISM LUBE AND MAINTENANCE.
2 of the toppers have been replaced that I know of. My concern is the lubrication of the moving parts on the patio awning and the individual pull-out window awnings. My folks didn't use the patio awning all that much, but I will. How tricky is this to lube up?

They also had installed an individual pull-out awning over the living room window on the driver's side. My dad and I are not fans of this slide topper that can be pulled out and extended as a window awning. I don't like how it works and I don't see that feature on the newer ones which leads me to believe it was a poor design choice. I may end up replacing the side toppers and rollers so they don't do this anymore. But for now, just lube them up.

Any thoughts, tips or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 12-05-2018, 06:04 AM   #2
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Yes I would warm up the engine prior to change oil.

You don't mention transmission, find out the last time the filter & fluids were changed. This is not a hard job but worth it.

Also, may consider taking oil samples, I use JG Lubrication, don't do it everytime but might consider it to get a base line.

I was contemplating doing a coolant change after 13 years but opted to test the coolant first, it tested as it was new. I did do the SCA testing annually and replaced the coolant filter.

If you have the original documentation for the coach there should be a Roadmaster Chassis manula that shows the lube points. If not just crawl underneath and start finding them as there are a lot. Driveshaft U-joints are important along with the rest. There is a hidden U-joint under the steering column cover, it has to be removed to reach.

The Pacbrake requires a high temp lube, here's a link to a guide showing the maintenance requirements.

https://pacbrake.com/wp-content/uplo...7/08/L5046.pdf

I use a silicone spray on the slideout mechanism.

Also, don't forget to lubricate the slideout locks. Since it is covered I just spray Superlube down the mechanism to lubricate, basically just drenching everything. Some people put a large container under and just pour oil down the side but this is even messier.

Good Luck
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Old 12-05-2018, 06:51 AM   #3
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Nice the coach is staying in the family ! These older Monaco's are well built and in demand. I do most of my own maintenance. Your oil pan should have 2 drain plugs. A upper and lower one. Open the upper one first and drain till it stops then open the lower one to finish draining. Prevents all that oil coming out at once. I use a big drain pan and empty after the upper plug has stopped draining. Then put empty pan back and remove lower plug to finish. Just be careful crawling underneath the coach. I usually put wooden cribbing ( 6x6s ) under the frame to act as a jack stand.
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Old 12-05-2018, 07:18 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Migkiller View Post
Nice the coach is staying in the family ! These older Monaco's are well built and in demand. I do most of my own maintenance. Your oil pan should have 2 drain plugs. A upper and lower one. Open the upper one first and drain till it stops then open the lower one to finish draining. Prevents all that oil coming out at once. I use a big drain pan and empty after the upper plug has stopped draining. Then put empty pan back and remove lower plug to finish. Just be careful crawling underneath the coach. I usually put wooden cribbing ( 6x6s ) under the frame to act as a jack stand.
Great tip. Thank you. My dad installed a drain valve. I haven'tbeen underneath there to take a look yet but I think I can just open a valve.
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a Dodge Durango, or on occasion, a Toyota Prius
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Old 12-05-2018, 07:19 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jacwjames View Post
Yes I would warm up the engine prior to change oil.

You don't mention transmission, find out the last time the filter & fluids were changed. This is not a hard job but worth it.

Also, may consider taking oil samples, I use JG Lubrication, don't do it everytime but might consider it to get a base line.

I was contemplating doing a coolant change after 13 years but opted to test the coolant first, it tested as it was new. I did do the SCA testing annually and replaced the coolant filter.

If you have the original documentation for the coach there should be a Roadmaster Chassis manula that shows the lube points. If not just crawl underneath and start finding them as there are a lot. Driveshaft U-joints are important along with the rest. There is a hidden U-joint under the steering column cover, it has to be removed to reach.

The Pacbrake requires a high temp lube, here's a link to a guide showing the maintenance requirements.

https://pacbrake.com/wp-content/uplo...7/08/L5046.pdf

I use a silicone spray on the slideout mechanism.

Also, don't forget to lubricate the slideout locks. Since it is covered I just spray Superlube down the mechanism to lubricate, basically just drenching everything. Some people put a large container under and just pour oil down the side but this is even messier.

Good Luck
I don't suppose you have any pictures of this area? I'm not sure to what you're referring.
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Old 12-05-2018, 08:32 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SegwayGuy View Post
I don't suppose you have any pictures of this area? I'm not sure to what you're referring.
Sorry. I meant pictures of the slide out lube area.
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Old 12-05-2018, 10:32 AM   #7
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Wow, the Windsor is a great coach and will last many years if properly maintained. You would be hard pressed to find a new coach built as well.

Here is a link with pictures of slide out locks. They are only on the drivers side front main slide out. Look at the pictures in post #5. Twomed recommends CRC spray lubricant.
http://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/slid...lp-416803.html

Here is a link to a thread on changing engine coolant.
http://www.irv2.com/forums/f123/changing-green-sca-coolant-for-new-cummins-compleat-oat-389479.html

Rev Group does not have your 2003 Windsor owners manual online, but the 2004 model should be almost identical. You can download it and use it for quick searches like the chassis lube points. Look at the grease fitting diagrams in section 10.
https://www.monacocoach.com/rv-owners-manuals

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Old 12-05-2018, 01:28 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vito.a View Post
Wow, the Windsor is a great coach and will last many years if properly maintained. You would be hard pressed to find a new coach built as well.

Here is a link with pictures of slide out locks. They are only on the drivers side front main slide out. Look at the pictures in post #5. Twomed recommends CRC spray lubricant.
http://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/slid...lp-416803.html

Here is a link to a thread on changing engine coolant.
http://www.irv2.com/forums/f123/changing-green-sca-coolant-for-new-cummins-compleat-oat-389479.html

Rev Group does not have your 2003 Windsor owners manual online, but the 2004 model should be almost identical. You can download it and use it for quick searches like the chassis lube points. Look at the grease fitting diagrams in section 10.
https://www.monacocoach.com/rv-owners-manuals

Wow. Thank you. That's a wealth of information. I'll be reading for a while.
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Old 12-05-2018, 02:27 PM   #9
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Monaco does not list your 2003 Windsor brochure, but I have a black & white version and a partial one in color I can send you.
Send me a private message (upper right corner of this page) with your email address and I'll send it to you.
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Old 12-05-2018, 04:22 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vito.a View Post
Monaco does not list your 2003 Windsor brochure, but I have a black & white version and a partial one in color I can send you.
Send me a private message (upper right corner of this page) with your email address and I'll send it to you.
That PM thing isn't working here.
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Old 12-05-2018, 04:22 PM   #11
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Found it.
PM sent. Thank you.
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Old 12-05-2018, 07:29 PM   #12
rgl
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You don't mention fuel filters, usually changed with oil. Could be important if the coach has sat for awhile
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Old 12-05-2018, 08:35 PM   #13
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You don't mention fuel filters, usually changed with oil. Could be important if the coach has sat for awhile
Thank you. Great tip. I failed to mention filters but I think we have them all. How often do you change the FF?
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Old 12-05-2018, 11:54 PM   #14
rgl
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Fuel filter is changed at oil change. The secondary maybe every other change. But it's not a bad idea to carry spares and know how to change them if you encounter fuel problems. On an ISL the spec is 20,000 miles OR annually. Some people get their oil analyzed to avoid annual changes as motor home are not high mileage vehicles like trucks.

Same goes for the antifreeze which needs to be checked for SCA (or changed out for the newer types)

Look for maint records even writing on the old filters, or a log book.
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