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Old 05-04-2018, 03:14 PM   #1
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New Alternator still no charge Alt light on

I have read every thread and very helpful comments on this forum, but still have a problem . Here it goes... One year ago after sitting for 6 months started the coach ( ISC Cummins 330 , Leece Neville 2428 LC Alternator) no charge Alt light on 12 Volt on the dash gauge , 12.2 V on the Scan Gauge no bells going off, Tach and all other gauges working. Charged the Batts for 2 days , no change , found out they were 9 years old replaced them, all was well again. Alternator light out , charging 13.8 to 14.2 V. Went for a 600 mile trip stayed at RV park 8 weeks started up, still all good. Parked the Coach in storage for 6 more weeks (summertime dry and hot), start up, charge light back on, no bells or chimes,Tach works but alternator not charging .
We left the coach sitting for 6 months over winter , this week I replaced the alternator, brand new same make and model made for the application 2428LC had it installed exactly the same as the old one, installed new Batteries again, still not charging, replaced all fuses I could find related to the charging system just in case I missed something. I also replaced the Aux Start Relay and the Delay Relay in the Battery Bay.
What is wrong ... sorry for the long winded story
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Old 05-04-2018, 04:21 PM   #2
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I had the same problem it was the toggle switch in dash for battery boosts between house and engine batteries
play with it back and forth been fine since .
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Old 05-04-2018, 05:14 PM   #3
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#1, see if large wire on alternator has battery power. It should go down to the battery cable at the starter. Make sure all is tight and clean.



#2, see if you have a smaller sense wire that has 12 volt power. That should show chassis battery voltage at all times. That is what the voltage regulator senses to control output.


#3, See if there is a 2nd small wire that is powered, only when key is on. That should actavate the alternator regulator.

Aux start, delay and house system have nothing to do with chassis battery charging, until the chassis system is operating and outputting 13.3 volts. All of that stuff comes later.
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Old 05-04-2018, 05:21 PM   #4
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One more item to Twinboats list.
There is a fuse labeled ALT that is located in one of the Buss boxes. Usually located next to the engine ECM.
With all the parts changing its possible this fuse is blown.
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Old 05-04-2018, 05:21 PM   #5
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Hi No Stress Express; I am going to say that I am not the expert on the alternator but will relay some of my experiences. Fist a couple of things, When you said it was not charging, did you ever take the voltage directly off of the alternator? I had some problems with my 2000 Windsor with the Leece Neville alternator that had the adjustable voltage feature. I had to adjust the voltage to get it to charge. Took readings right off alternator posts. Later the alternator failed and started charging at 15.6V. Had the coach in the shop at Cummins and they replaced the alternator. They had to run a new sensor wire to the alternator so I don't think it was an exact replacement but never had any problems again. Also on the new to me 2001 Windsor, the previous owner had the alternator rebuilt when the coolant reservoir cracked and spilled coolant all over the alternator. At idle with the batteries charged up full, my alternator light will blink until I add a load, such as turning on the dash heater fan, and increase the RPM. Then the voltage jumps up to 14.0 to 14.2V. Also there should be a fuse marked DUVAC somewhere back by your batteries. I think I read in your post that you have a Diplomat. On my Windsor the DUVAC fuse is back in my curbside electrical bay at the very back of the coach. Don't know if any of this will help, but I thought I would share. I hope you find the problem. Good luck!
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Old 05-04-2018, 05:30 PM   #6
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Thought I would pass some info along, I replaced my alternator last fall with a new one from A J Electric, when I was talking to them, Jim,, I think was his name, he said check the crimped wire connectors that bolt to the alternator, he has had people find the crimp has failed and some could just pull the wire out with a good tug.
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Old 05-04-2018, 09:36 PM   #7
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Thank you all for your quick answers and advice. I will try again over the weekend and let you know the outcome once it's found and fixed
have a great weekend and save travel
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Old 05-07-2018, 04:31 PM   #8
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I'm also interested in this thread. While running the engine at fast idle last week the battery light came on. In our owners manual it says this means the alternator is not charging. But, the chassis batteries were still over 13V.
I noticed that if I turn the headlights on, the battery light usually goes out.


It's difficult to access the wires behind the alternator, but I got my hand back there and they all feel tight. This is a Leece Nevelle 270a alternator with 4 terminals and a ground on the back.
I guess I need to remove the alternator and then clean and check each wire terminal?
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Old 05-07-2018, 06:19 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vito.a View Post
I'm also interested in this thread. While running the engine at fast idle last week the battery light came on. In our owners manual it says this means the alternator is not charging. But, the chassis batteries were still over 13V.
I noticed that if I turn the headlights on, the battery light usually goes out.


It's difficult to access the wires behind the alternator, but I got my hand back there and they all feel tight. This is a Leece Nevelle 270a alternator with 4 terminals and a ground on the back.
I guess I need to remove the alternator and then clean and check each wire terminal?
In your case, was the generator running ?

The house charging system can trick the alternator light if both are charging.
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Old 05-07-2018, 06:46 PM   #10
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Hi twinboat, you can get at the alternator connections from the ground to check them . It's a little tight but doable. Not knowing your make , year and model, to remove and reinstall you are looking at 1.5 hrs or better . A Cummins mechanic just did it for me (replaced alternator new , still not charging) been chasing this no charging problem for weeks now.
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Old 05-07-2018, 08:17 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vito.a View Post
I'm also interested in this thread. While running the engine at fast idle last week the battery light came on. In our owners manual it says this means the alternator is not charging. But, the chassis batteries were still over 13V.
I noticed that if I turn the headlights on, the battery light usually goes out.


It's difficult to access the wires behind the alternator, but I got my hand back there and they all feel tight. This is a Leece Nevelle 270a alternator with 4 terminals and a ground on the back.
I guess I need to remove the alternator and then clean and check each wire terminal?
As usual Twinboat is spot on. You probably did have it connected to shoreline or had the generator running, however there is often a circuit that will not allow that situation to arise when running the generator..

Just turn your headlights on for a time to put a load on the system while you are messing about with the engine running.
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Old 05-07-2018, 08:20 PM   #12
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No Stress, Twinboat is spot on if you have the built in regulator. Alternators are really pretty dumb devices when the regulators are built in.

Basically a good heavy output wire, some sort of ignition controlled power, and maybe a non switched input.

And then all they need is to be spun. If they have the proper stuff connected power wise and don't charge they are sick. New or not. Normally if an electronic component is going to fail it will be sooner than later. I have seen them bad out of the box.
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Old 05-07-2018, 09:21 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by No Stress Express View Post
Hi twinboat, you can get at the alternator connections from the ground to check them . It's a little tight but doable. Not knowing your make , year and model, to remove and reinstall you are looking at 1.5 hrs or better . A Cummins mechanic just did it for me (replaced alternator new , still not charging) been chasing this no charging problem for weeks now.
You need to see if you have a battery isolator.
The alternator output goes to it, and from there it splits the alt output to both battery banks. I thought they went away from then in the late 1990s but you could have a holdout.

If a diode blows in them, no current will pass thru them.

If you have a more modern, solenoid based battery isolator, the alternator output is connected directly to the chassis battery, typically at the starter motor, and is the same as any auto. In that case you need a new mechanic.
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Old 05-07-2018, 09:27 PM   #14
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My 98 Dynasty has an isolator.
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