No 120 VAC Anywhere in Coach.

[cavie]

Originally Posted by BigLar368

Then why would you even start trying to give out information? The OP has already determined what the problem is. What is so complicated about going back and reading what was posted?

[RTIMMONS]

Crossing L1& L2 between the jumper would get power out of phase. Just to keep things simple, remove the 1&2 output from the inverter. That way there is no chance of leaking current across bad relay contacts, which may or may not happen. Your charge to the batteries would still be in place, assuming the transfer relay is definitely failed.
You will need batteries because nearly all lighting is 12v. If your main battery switches are mislabeled you can turn off the switches remove the knobs and replace correctly. ‘That was probably the joke for the day at the factory’.
The knobs are a kind of lockout feature when removed. This is assuming the switches are Blue Sea (think that is the name, same as boats). I had to replace one and reused the knob to keep the same label.
Good luck, but I think you have the problem mastered.

[cavie]

Originally Posted by Buck Wheat

I don't feel like reading all of these complicated posts. I just know this. Start with the most basic things first. There is a good possibility the you missed checking one or possibly even two GFI outlets. There is probably a GFI outlet in one or two of your cargo bays because they are exposed to an outdoor environment. One of your bays probably houses hook-ups for a TV or radio to be used outdoors. It will have an AC outlet, a DC outlet and antenna/cable connection. That bay is located on the passenger side of the RV, usually in the middle. Another GFI outlet may exist in the utility bay where your sewer hose and water inlets are located. This bay has an antenna connection and in some cases has a GFI AC outlet and a DC outlet. Check this out before you start ripping anything apart. If you had a power fluctuation you most likely tripped the GFI on an outlet. I hope the problem is something simple!

For what it is worth you missed the one in the bathroom and possibly the kitchen. [moderator edit]

[cavie]

Originally Posted by nothermark

If he disconnects the Inverter output it won't matter which way he connects L1 & L2. Either way as long as the output of the Inverter is connected in parallel with the jumpers he added there is a danger of backfeeding to the Inverter input and having a problem if that relay releases.

The converter built into the Inverter combination unit would take a large charger to replace it if he is going to use the MH for the trip he is planning. If that was not an issue I'd agree to just leave it off. As it stands it's a reasonable way to keep most of the system working for the trip.

You are correct in this instance but I prefer to teach newbies the proper way to work on high voltage electricity. They are labeled L1, L2 so keep them that way throughout the system and nobody gets hurt.

[Nanci]

Happened to us too when I inadvertently plugged two heaters into the same circuit and flipped on the popcorn popper. The GFI outlet and the circuit breaker tripped. Even after flipping the circuit breaker- no power. Had to reset the GFI on an outlet at the very back of motorhome near the circuit breaker panel.

[Persistent]

Originally Posted by nothermark

How do you figure that?

The wiring diagram posted earlier shows that when the transfer switch is in the inverter supplied position, output L1 and L2 are connected together. The inverter is obviously a single leg 120 volt supply. Connecting them together supplies 120 volts to both L1 and L2 circuits.

[gemert]

Did you fix it yet or just jumper around it?

[barmcd]

I just jumpered around it and will use a battery charger until I get the new inverter installed. It's supposed to be here the day we're leaving for our trip. I'm debating whether I want to take it with me and replace it while we're on the road. It shouldn't be really difficult because the new inverter has the same inputs and outputs the old one had. It's just a matter of physically mounting it to the coach and running the wires. I'm planning installing two new junction boxes, one for the input and one for the output then just connecting short pigtails to the inverter and running them to the new junction boxes.

[bruceisla]

Originally Posted by barmcd

I just jumpered around it and will use a battery charger until I get the new inverter installed. It's supposed to be here the day we're leaving for our trip. I'm debating whether I want to take it with me and replace it while we're on the road. It shouldn't be really difficult because the new inverter has the same inputs and outputs the old one had. It's just a matter of physically mounting it to the coach and running the wires. I'm planning installing two new junction boxes, one for the input and one for the output then just connecting short pigtails to the inverter and running them to the new junction boxes.

If it were me, I'd take the new inverter along for the ride but wait until you are home to replace it ... bad stuff happens when you are in the boonies ... just sayin' ,,,

[gemert]

Originally Posted by barmcd

I just jumpered around it and will use a battery charger until I get the new inverter installed. It's supposed to be here the day we're leaving for our trip. I'm debating whether I want to take it with me and replace it while we're on the road. It shouldn't be really difficult because the new inverter has the same inputs and outputs the old one had. It's just a matter of physically mounting it to the coach and running the wires. I'm planning installing two new junction boxes, one for the input and one for the output then just connecting short pigtails to the inverter and running them to the new junction boxes.

When I installed my new Magnum in place of the Xantrex all the electrical connections were similar but the holes to mount to the frame were different. If you plan to do it on the road make sure you bring good quality drill bits and a good drill. The frame was very hard steel and tough to drill through. Inverter was also heavy to hold up by myself as I made connections. Remote connections had to be changed also. Glad you found the problem, good luck with the repair.

[cavie]

Originally Posted by Persistent

The wiring diagram posted earlier shows that when the transfer switch is in the inverter supplied position, output L1 and L2 are connected together. The inverter is obviously a single leg 120 volt supply. Connecting them together supplies 120 volts to both L1 and L2 circuits.

I fail to see what you see.

A 50 amp service is supplied with 240 volts L1 and L2. 2 legs NOT hooked together.

The main panel the busses are split between 4 and 5 Main Breaker. L1 being 1234 and L2 being 5678. 240 volts NOT hooked together.

The inverter is fed by breakers 3 and 6 from the main panel. 240 volts NOT hooked together.

Inverter mains being 2 and 5. Not hooked together.

L1 being the even numbered breakers and L2 being the odd numbered breakers. OP has the inverter labeled wrong but he has the idea.

Please explain how you see it.

The invert panel mains are 2 and 5. 240 volts. Not hooked together.

[nodine]

Originally Posted by cavie

You are correct in this instance but I prefer to teach newbies the proper way to work on high voltage electricity. They are labeled L1, L2 so keep them that way throughout the system and nobody gets hurt.

I believe the inverter that Dennis has uses only one leg of the input AC power and not both L1 and L2. The output of the inverter is a single phase output split into different circuits via circuit breakers. The transfer switch that is internal to the inverter is always energized when the AC power at the input is present. When the AC power drops out that contactor de-energizes and connects the output of the inverter to those circuits that were previously powered from the generator or shore power. There should only be one phase at both the input and output of his inverter/charger. Notice he only shows three input wires and three output wires at the inverter. Those are the standard black, white, and green wires one would expect to find in a home, or in this case probably black, white, and bare.

Bob

[cavie]

Originally Posted by nodine

I believe the inverter that Dennis has uses only one leg of the input AC power and not both L1 and L2. The output of the inverter is a single phase output split into different circuits via circuit breakers. The transfer switch that is internal to the inverter is always energized when the AC power at the input is present. When the AC power drops out that contactor de-energizes and connects the output of the inverter to those circuits that were previously powered from the generator or shore power. There should only be one phase at both the input and output of his inverter/charger. Notice he only shows three input wires and three output wires at the inverter. Those are the standard black, white, and green wires one would expect to find in a home, or in this case probably black, white, and bare.

Bob

I am drawing my info from the OP post #72. It shows the inverter being fed by two breakers. Numbers 3 and 6 and a neutral. He does not show the ground but that is a gimmy. That would be 240 volts as the buss is split at the main breakers 4 and 5. Am I missing something here?

[barmcd]

These are the schematics involved. I thought both legs were used and that's how you got two 30 amp circuits.