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Old 04-08-2012, 08:26 AM   #29
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Lee, I have a computer fan in my fridge from Radio Shack wired to the light and grounded to the cooling fins. This might give you a few options as far as helping out. The difference is substantial.
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Old 04-08-2012, 09:27 AM   #30
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LeeB,
Diplomat Don's setup and mine are almost identical. I also run mine on 4 or 5 to maintain 38-41 degrees regulation inside the frig. during a 24 hour period. The only place I have heard to get the dual blue clip-on fans are from the guy on EBAY. Of course, any type of 12VDC fan you can use until getting home will help. Looks like you are running much better now with the new thermistor. Once you are sure your outside fans are cycling on and off, you have no outside air restrictions, a good thermistor, good AC and Propane heat sources working good, good inside air circulation with the dual blue fan, and other tips by Diplomat Don and others, there isn't much else to do. Cooling should be "Normal". Just remember that gas absorbtion frigs. will swamp easily when adding warm food to the frig. or freezer, so temps. will raise for awhile before slowly going down again. That is one thing to be careful of while travelling. Try to cool food for awhile, if possible, before putting in the frig.
Otherwise, it sounds like you should be OK for the rest of your trip. If you need further info on the blue dual fan assembly, PM me and I will send a link to his web site on Ebay.
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Old 04-08-2012, 10:04 AM   #31
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Not to be insulting by stating the obvious, but check that the reefer stack has no air flow restrictions like a bird's nest or insulation.

Last fall our fridge suddenly started warming up, in spite of double fans under the vent and the little ebay fans inside. Turned out it was a chunk of fiberglass insulation on the exterior wall of the stack that had loosened and was obstructing air flow. Mouse? Aging adhesive? Who knows. Pushed the insulation back in place and no more issues.
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Old 04-08-2012, 10:10 AM   #32
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Those fans can not be wired inside on models 2007 and newer as per the seller on ebay. They say that they can email directions on how they can be wired but there is no email address for the seller. Anybody familiar with this?
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Old 04-08-2012, 10:30 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clifftall
Those fans can not be wired inside on models 2007 and newer as per the seller on ebay. They say that they can email directions on how they can be wired but there is no email address for the seller. Anybody familiar with this?
I email David Force who also sells these and he was there today and emailed me these instructions.


The add-on fan is designed and built to give a good circulation of air flow through out the refrigerator cavity, top to bottom, giving a more even cold temp. Fans will work on any and all refrigerators regardless of model.

The built in switch is designed to be used, if needed, in multiple ways.
1} If your refrigerator has an interior light
The black ground wire will not be used. The push on mounting is the ground connection.
a. If wired this way you can leave fan switch on at all times, the fan will work when the refrigerator main switch is ON.
b. If wired straight to the 12 vdc at the back input, you can control when you want the fan to run by the built in fan switch.
c. Shorten the cable as needed for interior hook up. Also piggy back terminals are furnished so you do not need to cut any of the OEM wires.

2} If your refrigerator has no interior light, you will have to run the lead to the outside, connect to any
12 vdc source. With this type hookup, the fan will be controlled by fan switch as needed.

3} Some newer model refrigerators will still have an interior light, but can not be used for fan operation due to the way the light switch is wired.
With this style you must wire straight to a 12 vdc source at the back side of refrigerators.

He said the best way is to snake the wire through the drain tube to access a 12v source from the rear of fridge.
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Old 04-08-2012, 11:12 AM   #34
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Hijack coming.

40F is the reconized temperature for proper frig temperature. Sure is lots of wheel spinning for something which is normal.

Lee, what temperature are you looking for? I hate frozen milk on my cereal in the morning.
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Old 04-08-2012, 04:25 PM   #35
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Welp it looks I have done as much as can be done for now. I will try the fans form the guy on E-Bay.

Yes Senior Chief the stack is clear.

As far as what temp I am trying to achieve I would love to maintain 35* to 39* on a regular bases, no matter what the ambient (outside) temp is. We like to travel and camp in 90*+ air temps. Also a concern for me is my wife is diabetic and her insulin must remain cool.

I'll give the fans a try and if they work "Yay" if not I will either go with the Amish Cooling Unit or trade my 11yr old MH in for something newer. Hahahaha I know that there will be a chance that the new to me one will have the same Fridge problems. But I'll have something that is only a few years old. Whether it be Gas or Diesel.

I want to THANK each and everyone of you for your help, along with my phone calls to David Force.
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Old 04-08-2012, 09:08 PM   #36
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My blue fan is just tapped into the light. If you can't tap into the light, another method is to feed the wire out through the drain tube and into the rear of the refer where you can tap into 12 volts. On mine, I bought a small toggle switch from Radio Shack and added it to the fans.
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Old 04-09-2012, 08:34 AM   #37
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I am a first time RV owner and set up Saturday. My RV seems to be level according to the leveling bubble in my refrigerator; however my refrigerator alarm is going off. I have placed it on Auto AC because I am not using propane, but it still is going off. I don't know what is wrong with it. The manual wasn't much help to me. It has displayed 2 codes A8 and C8. Does anyone know what that means?
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Old 04-09-2012, 09:29 PM   #38
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Jdw which refer do you have and what kind of RV?

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Old 04-10-2012, 07:18 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diplomat Don View Post
My blue fan is just tapped into the light. If you can't tap into the light, another method is to feed the wire out through the drain tube and into the rear of the refer where you can tap into 12 volts. On mine, I bought a small toggle switch from Radio Shack and added it to the fans.
I ordered the fan assembly yesterday and will have delivered General Delivery to Pahrump...

Yes JDw we need more information......
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Old 04-11-2012, 05:38 PM   #40
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Lee, sorry your having problems with your fridge. Looks like you've been given some good direction here. I think the small inside fans are worth a try and can/should still be used if you decide on the Amish cooling unit later. I believe Mr. Force also sells them (with on/off switch?).

If your freezer part is working, you could also try freezing a couple Cooler Ice Packs and rotate them to the lower fridge section to assist in cooling while you wait on the new cooling unit.

We have been very happy with our new Amish cooling unit. Since our fridge was from 2000, we purchased the cooling unit package with New fans, fan switch, and AC elements. Oh and we also bought the 'add-on 1200 Condenser Baffle' which I think was a cheep & simple device that could help cooling greatly especially it the RV manufacturer didn't baffle the cabinet correctly or is in a slide.

Hope this helps,
Our Norcold to Amish Built Cooling Unit Change-out
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Old 04-11-2012, 06:12 PM   #41
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Quote:
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...
Long story short, we had stock piled bags of cubed ice in both sides of the freezer floor when we provisioned up.

Took all the ice out and fridge began to cool normally. ...
Yep. an absorption refer does not have the heat capacity like residential models do. It's the physics of the absorption design. It'll get just as cold it's just that it'll take a whole lot longer to get there. That means you can NOT load it up (food or ice) and think it'll cool. It'll have to cool those 40 lbs of ice to zero degrees or so and that will take an absorption model literally weeks to accomplish before it gets back to a temperature balance inside.

Every time you open the door it'll take it probably an hour or more to get it back to where it was before you opened the door (unlike a residential model which will recover in minutes). Those door openings add up quick to raise the inside refer temp.

I've run my Norcold 1200 during the late summer at Furnace Creek in Death Valley (115F-120F daytime every day all day) with direct sun on the refer side for a full week and never had it get above 40f in the refer (set on 6 from my normal of 5). Diligent refer management was the key - I didn't willy-nilly open the door every five minutes or add mass quantities of warm food to it. Get in, get out, leave it be and it'll work flawlessly to mid 30s refer and right at zero freezer.

I'll go on a limb, the vast majority of Norcold complaints (that are not component failure related) are clearly OE by not understanding that an absorption refer simply can not cool as fast as a residential. It'll cool as cold, just not as fast. Frequent/long door opening and/or loading up to the gills with warm stuff are the death knell. That's what you give up for the power miser aspect of an absorption over a residential.

YMMV
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Old 04-11-2012, 06:28 PM   #42
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Lee, try rearranging the food on the shelves to give better circulation, if there is a small fan with you place it outside at the vent and let it blow upward at the back of the fridge(remove vent cover). If the fridge is on the sun side in afternoon, see if you can change campsites to put the fridge in the shade. These are small things I know but they can help. I have the Amish cooling and we are VERY happy with the results, it too is in a 1200 Nocold. We dry camp occasionally and also use our MH as a rescue home when we have Ice storms and lose power. I would do it again. DW and I did the work ourselves. Good luck with it till you get home
Dometic says to put the fans up high and pull the air through and out the upper vent. This is in their install instructions. I have one fan but should probably add another. We have the Amish unit and I installed it myself last year, works great.
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