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Old 07-03-2011, 12:22 PM   #15
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Hey fellow Canucks my Cummins manual says to use a silicone lubricant. I have used that and so far no problems. I believe I got mine at Canuck Tire.

CHEERS
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Old 07-03-2011, 03:09 PM   #16
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Sorry guys but I have to ask....Where is the pacbrake?? Is it attached to the turbo or ??????? I am still learning my coach. I have a side mount rad so the engine is looking right at you..

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Old 07-03-2011, 03:26 PM   #17
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It is an exhaust brake vs and engine brake. Yes its attached to the turbo.

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Old 07-03-2011, 04:01 PM   #18
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I use a product called Super Lube. It is recommended by Freightliner for my Cummings exhaust brake system. It has an exceptional temperature range and is the only one I know of the is food safe. I use on the squeaky oven doors and many many other items. It is also a very good Die-electric grease.
Comes in a spray can or as a grease by the tube.
Try this link. It is down at the time but well worth a look.. Now mind you it does cost more then WD-40 that in MHOP should not be on the market.it just evaporates and leaves vary little lasting lube film.
http://www.super-lube.com

Dick.
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Old 07-13-2011, 07:39 PM   #19
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Hi DR4FILM Do you like the PRXB brake? How much $ and whats the change in performance? Do you know how to jump wires to activate the Brake from the place where it is? Thought I remembered, but trying it yesterday didnt work! I googled Tri-Flow and found a dealer! allegro5
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Old 07-14-2011, 05:49 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by allegro5 View Post

Hi DR4FILM Do you like the PRXB brake? How much $ and whats the change in performance? Do you know how to jump wires to activate the Brake from the place where it is? Thought I remembered, but trying it yesterday didn't work! I googled Tri-Flow and found a dealer! allegro5
Allegro5,

I am very pleased with the performance of the upgraded PRXB PacBrake. Although, you will most likely only notice better horse braking performance at lower speeds, not necessarily at 55-60 mph. I went to the PRXB because I am fully loaded on my coach, 36,000 lb's or more and hauling a 11,000 lb trailer. I wanted all of the help I can get on any downhill grade. On most grades I keep the coach speed between 40-50 and it does quite well with a quick hard jab on the service bakes once the speed gets to 50 mph to lower it back down to 40 or so. I am finding that I don' t have to jab the brakes quite as often as previously.

The cheapest price I found was from CLF Warehouse in West Sacramento, CA for $615.68 plus tax. That was over one year ago. Not sure what they are getting for them now.

On my Windsor in the bedroom just in front of the sliding mirror wardrobe doors there is a "hatch". If you lift that hatch, you will see the PacBrake actuator to the right.

On my coach, looking into the hole you have when the hatch cover is removed, you will see a metal plate with three solenoids on it. Look like the old Ford starter solenoids. One is for the Cummins starter and the other two are in parallel and feed the heater grid in the air intake.

I got a spring loaded Normally Open toggle switch at Radio Shack. Drilled a hole in the solenoid bracket to mount the toggle switch. Ran one lead to a Positive 12 VDC source on one of the three relays. Then I dug around until I found the hot wire that goes to the PacBrake air solenoid. This solenoid is east to pick out as you will see an air line from it to the PacBrake. It was over to the left of the hatch opening and underneath some wire bundles.

I ran the other wire from my toggle switch to the PacBrake wire and used one of those quick connect squeeze splices. I did not use any diodes. Doesn't seem to hurt anything.

So now, when I press the toggle switch to ON, it sends current to the PacBrake solenoid and that activates it and the PacBrake Valve opens providing that you have sufficient air pressure reserve in your air tanks.

The way you lube it is to take off the air line at the activating cylinder and squirt in some PacBrake lube or Tri-Flow. I checked out using Tri-Flow with PacBrake Tech Support folks and they told me that was what they used.

So, squirt some lube into the air hose and reconnect. Flip the switch a couple of times to force lube into the actuation cylinder.

Then remove the bronze "muffler" on the end of the cylinder and squirt some lube in that end. Reinstall muffler. CAUTION - tighten muffler carefully as it's easy to break if off.

Flip the toggle switch a couple of times and you have now lubed both sides of the actuating cylinder.

Spray some lube on the pivoting joints of the mechanism, and you are all done.

Hope this helps.

Dr4Film ----- Richard.
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Old 07-15-2011, 05:19 AM   #21
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Hi DR4Film, Thanks for all that info! Sounds great! I will fallow your lead! Very nice of you to take that time! allegro5
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