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Old 07-17-2012, 02:46 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Sepisllib View Post
I have no idea of the rating on this thing.

Anyone know???

All I know is I used a 4ft 2x4 in attempt to pry it and moved it only about an inch.

God Bless

Bill
Rating is normally printed right on the body. I saw a question/comment on an above post about force to move it with the door. It is all about leverage when you pull the door down it "cams over center" to stay closed, when you pull or lift, it comes over the "cam center" and lifts. By camming over center it can stay closed without latching. There is a lot of engineering involved in these gas lift applications.
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Old 07-17-2012, 03:19 PM   #16
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You may have gotten a faulty strut. If you cannot move it using a 2x4, how do expect to move it using a storage door?
Please re-read the original post, and subsequent posts, about the issue.

I just simply broke a bolt in one hinge - in order to get the hinge back into place I had to physically remove the strut. Up to then, even being 11 years old and broken bolt, the strut was still working as designed.

After getting a new bolt in the hinge, now I must put the strut back onto the ball that I removed it from. The strut is under tension - how much I do not know, however I do know it is more than I can manhandle.

Guess I am getting old (70) or lazy (maybe both) but I find that I just do not have what it takes to reattach the strut.

It is in an awkward position on top of everything ----

NO - the strut is not a replacement one and NO I did not obtain a defective strut. Even in broken state the door worked good ---- I was just concerned that something else would break loose and cause more damage because it is located inches from my low voltage control panel.

God Bless

Bill
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Old 07-17-2012, 06:59 PM   #17
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Sounds like you're going to have to take off the ladder. I have to lift mine almost as high as they go to put them back on.



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Old 07-17-2012, 07:23 PM   #18
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Bill.....If you can compress it off of the coach (like on the workbench or somewhere else) maybe you can use some "plumbers tape" ( the metal tape with holes). Make a loop out of the metal tape that is the length that you need the strut to be and bolt it together. Once the strut is compressed, put the plumber's tape loop around it and install. Once installed, undo the bolt or use tin snips to cut the plumber's tape.

This would be similar to the straps that come on gas shocks when new.
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Old 07-17-2012, 11:41 PM   #19
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Are both struts the same length?

Can you disconnect the still attached strut and raise the door to attach the problem strut then reattach the second? May be use an appropriate length of 2x4 to hold the door open while both struts are Disconected
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Old 07-18-2012, 05:40 AM   #20
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Bill, I have saw these struts become impossible to move. Sounds like the reason for the bracket to break is the strut malfunctioned. If by some means you get it back on, it will probably break the bracket again. Get the numbers off the strut, order a new replacement, and that should fix your problem.
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Old 07-18-2012, 06:18 AM   #21
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Bill, I have saw these struts become impossible to move. Sounds like the reason for the bracket to break is the strut malfunctioned. If by some means you get it back on, it will probably break the bracket again. Get the numbers off the strut, order a new replacement, and that should fix your problem.
Yeah - I thought about that issue too.

Unfortunately, in someones infinite wisedom, they painted the darned things and destroyed the tag - so I do not know.

I have a e-mail to Monaco Parts dept - for specs, price and details. Hopefully they will provide me the information.

As long as I have the problem at hand, I may as well go ahead the replace both struts ---- after all, they are 11 years old and counting.

God Bless

Bill
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Old 07-18-2012, 06:34 AM   #22
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Can you get the numbers off of another door strut? If you can, Google the number or Amazon door struts and go from there. I found new ones for mine at a great price from Amazon.



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Old 07-18-2012, 06:41 AM   #23
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I read that heat and time are a struts worst enemy. I took most of mine off for the 115° summer temps in Phx. They may only be $15-25 each, but that adds up when you have 3-5 go bad over the summer.



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Old 07-18-2012, 09:20 AM   #24
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Funny!!!

You got me thinking - so I opened the door back up and checked the left side strut. Sure enough - that one has been painted over also. It is almost like a deliberate move to make the part # unreadable, which it certainly does.

I took old one to the garage and tried to clean it enough to read it -- no luck. I also put my weight onto the end and other was on garage concrete floor - it moved, but not a lot. I could not collapse it and I weigh 220#

Maybe it is defective, or just old age has gotten to it, however it does work within limits I guess.

Came back to computer to do a search as I measured the strut - and it is 27 inches long fully extended. The smaller shaft (that telescopes into body) measures 3/8 inches, and the body measures 7/8 inches.

I had an e-mail from Monaco parts - giving me the part number as 08408020 and that it is a 150# strut and new ones are $32 each.

God Bless

Bill
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Old 07-18-2012, 09:46 AM   #25
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Funny!!!

You got me thinking - so I opened the door back up and checked the left side strut. Sure enough - that one has been painted over also. It is almost like a deliberate move to make the part # unreadable, which it certainly does.

I took old one to the garage and tried to clean it enough to read it -- no luck. I also put my weight onto the end and other was on garage concrete floor - it moved, but not a lot. I could not collapse it and I weigh 220#

Maybe it is defective, or just old age has gotten to it, however it does work within limits I guess.

Came back to computer to do a search as I measured the strut - and it is 27 inches long fully extended. The smaller shaft (that telescopes into body) measures 3/8 inches, and the body measures 7/8 inches.

I had an e-mail from Monaco parts - giving me the part number as 08408020 and that it is a 150# strut and new ones are $32 each.

God Bless

Bill
I've had to replace these d--- things on occasion. Check your local auto parts store, they may have a replacement. It want be any cheaper but you can try to make it work, if not, you can return it.

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Old 07-18-2012, 09:55 AM   #26
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Auto parts stores have no cross reference to lbs. They only sell them by application and/or length. Most of what they sell is for heavy hoods and deck lids. What you need to find one, is the extended, compressed length and pounds.



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Old 07-18-2012, 10:00 AM   #27
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Are you kidding??

Where I live I am lucky to have a gas station. We do have an ACE hardware, however their offerings are so limited I usually wait until I make the trip 57 miles up to Rochester, Mn.

Anyway - decided to just 'bite the bullet" and called Monaco. Ordered 2 new struts (150#) and while at it a new baby moon insert for front wheel that came off and abandoned me some time ago.

I was asking the person taking the order, they used to work in production and did that same thing. They said to lift the door up as far as it will go and the strut will fit on the balls - barely. Said I may end up having to take off the ladder though as they always did it before the ladder was installed......

I just may try the plumbers tape route --- will see.

God Bless

Bill
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Old 07-18-2012, 10:09 AM   #28
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I think it would be much quicker to just take the ladder off. What with trial and error with the plumber tape and maybe a ratchet strap. Seems like a lot less chance of poking an eye out.



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