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Old 09-17-2019, 04:10 PM   #1
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Oops... Holiday Rambler, Need a door.

After an unfortunate encounter with a guard rail on Sunday (yea, I'm stupid, and didn't listen to DW) I need a new curb (passenger side) wet bay door. Visone doesn't have that door (they do have everything else I need.)

Any other sources for a 2006 Holiday Rambler Ambassador door?

It would be most painful, but I'll post pictures if needed!

I'm in a bit of a hurry as we leave for our winter's travels at the end of October.

I'm also in need of a way to placate DW, who told me not to drive in there!
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Old 09-17-2019, 04:34 PM   #2
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Try Colaw Salvage in Carthage MO.
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Old 09-17-2019, 05:52 PM   #3
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i have a 2002 monaco windsor I had a new door skin made a a local metal shop only 85 dollars then Had to paint
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Old 09-17-2019, 06:03 PM   #4
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nehog-

I asked REV Group about a storage bay door for our 2008. They would make one. It would take several weeks and be expensive.

Our local high-end body shop made a replacement for less money, and faster. Actually, they contracted-out the replacement door skin to a shop they trust, then painted, masked to match the (former) decals and clear-coated it.
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Old 09-17-2019, 07:07 PM   #5
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We can probably help with the door, but you're on your own with your wife!
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Old 09-18-2019, 05:25 AM   #6
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Here's a list of salvage places where you might find what you need

http://www.fivestarrvgroup.com
RV Salvage Sources
http://www.glen-l.com/campers/suppliers.html
Used RV Parts And Used RV Accessories | Visone RV Monaco Parts Dealer | rvparts.visonerv.com
http://msrheaters.com/defrost.html
Northwest RV Supply Northwest RV Supply
Veurinks RV (Sue) 616-965-9619
http://colawrvsalvage.com
https://bontragers.com/rv-supplies-accessories/
http://m.rverscorner.com/?url=http%3...vage.html#2800
https://www.azrvsalvage.com/home.html
RV Surplus
Singletonsrv.com
Sullivan RV Sales and Service
Alliance coach, Wildwood FL
http://www.factoryrvsurplus.com
RVers Corner - RV Repair for the do-it-yourselfer!
http://www.myrvparks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1656
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Old 09-18-2019, 07:30 AM   #7
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Unless the door is completely demolished it may be fixable. Look at the way the door is constructed.

In my case there is a aluminum frame and outer skin. The outer skin is held on to the frame with adhesive tape. The door can be removed and the skin removed, frame straightened and new skin attached.



In my case my wife side swiped a guard pole at filling station, she damaged 3 doors and the bottom part of the slide. 2 of the doors had the top hinge completely squashed like a pancake, the doors could not be opened. I was able to get the 2 pieced of the top hinge and was able to remove from the RV, take the hinge off the door, reattach the piece from the door and the piece on the side of the motorhome, and paint. One door did get bent, I was able to take it off and clamp onto the top of a table and using a large pipe wrench and pieces of wood block to protect the door I was able to straighten the door. I was able to straighten the bottom slide extrusion using blocking and clamps. I did have to use some bondo to completely fix but now you can't tell there was ever any damage. Cost was ~$650 but no idea what it would have cost if a shop did it.
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Old 09-18-2019, 08:34 AM   #8
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Thanks for all the replies!

I have several constraints including we're in a rural area with few who have experience with aluminum (in fact I'm to go to guy but I've retired...) I could pretty easily re-skin the doors but just don't have the time right now.

We're scheduled to hit our winter travel start date of 31 October-5 November and I'd rather not miss that deadline!

I may re-skin one door as I've not been able to find it.

I did put in an insurance claim, and as long as they pay, then quicker is best for me.
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Old 09-28-2019, 06:02 PM   #9
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Final results. Insurance paid $6K after deductible.

Got a new hot water heater.

Decided to re-skin the doors (myself, I have a good shop.) Metal (0.060 with a baked enamel paint) arrives Monday. I've gotten the skins off two of the four doors, and will do the other two tomorrow.

Local paint shop is able to match the paint, and we'll paint in shop as well.

Much of the bending of non-replaceable parts to get them straight (door frames, water heater door trim, hinges, etc.) is done. The remaining bits won't be that hard to do.

I figure I'll be out of pocket about $1,500 to $2,000 when done, leaving about $4K left from the insurance settlement for other fixes and improvements this coming year.
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Old 09-29-2019, 09:37 AM   #10
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Onehog,

Bravo!

Thanks for sharing your experience, it’s guys like you on this forum that have inspired me to tackle several different projects on my coach that I otherwise wouldn’t have ever thought about doing.

I got interested in woodworking again after my coach got broken into and the thieves damaged the cabinetry in the process of stealing the TV. The local Monaco Dealership (now defunct) marked up all of the necessary parts 300%. I ended up buying all of the materials and doing the work myself....that was the beginning of several very satisfying DIY projects that began with posts from other guys on the forum like you!

Thanks for sharing,

Jim
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Old 09-30-2019, 05:07 PM   #11
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We're on the find the paint quest now. I did manage to find some information, but Diamont dealers don't have cross-references to those colors anymore. One dealer is trying to contact BASF to see if they can provide the formulas. I did get a formula for each from a different company, which I may be able to use to get the paint tinted.

I'll update as things progress.

The 4x8 sheets of aluminum for the door skins arrived today. Tomorrow I start looking at how to cut them. I'll update on the cutting as well. I've access to a sheet metal brake to do the required bends which is good.

But painting is the big problem right now.
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Old 10-02-2019, 06:32 PM   #12
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Work is progressing well. I'm actually enjoying the project, but don't tell DW that.

The fiberglass fender is fully repaired and ready to paint.

Got my new water heater (not 100% necessary to replace it, but I did anyway.) It is ready to install too.

Have my aluminum sheets (two 4x8 0.060 pieces) and ordered a new saw blade which arrives tomorrow. I'll get to cutting the doors tomorrow. The hardest part of that will be the openings for the latches and the water heater, but they should not be totally hard to do.

Once my skins are done, it is off to paint them. Once painted I figure a day to put it all back together with hopes the paint will match!

OK, the best part of the post for everyone. Paint...

Originally the coach was painted with Diamont. That is a BASF paint. Today Diamont dealers can't even lookup our paint codes!

But... it turns out that NAPA has the paint codes in their database, and can mix the colors using Martin Senour paint. However, not every NAPA store has the Martin Senour paint system, you have to check around. I ended up going to three NAPA stores to find one that had that paint. The final store was an hour's drive away, but once I got there they had no problems at all mixing it all up for me. Best bet: if you have those four digit Diamont codes, call and find the nearest NAPA store that mixes Martin Senour paint! (The store I used was in Greenfield MA.)
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Old 10-17-2019, 04:52 PM   #13
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Next to last followup...
  1. I could not find one of the doors. So I gave up (smart move!)
  2. I found the skin was 0.060 aluminum sheet. This is very common.
  3. I went to a local sign/lettering guy who is a great friend. We ordered two 4x8 sheets of 0.060 white enamel painted. Total cost for the two was about $190 though you'd pay more if you don't have a friend who has a source!
  4. I de-skinned my doors. Bit complicated, but not impossible by any stretch.
  1. Remove doors from RV. Side hinge doors, remove hinge screws (painful!) for the top hinged doors you lift the door to slightly more than horizontal, and push in towards the RV. Kind of tricky, but they will come out with some play.
  2. Remove the fender. As with top hinged doors (the fender is also top hinged) you can remove the mount/hinge, or as I did just remove the screws into the fiberglass fender and lift it off.
  3. In the shop, I drilled out all the rivets holding the door skins to the door frames. The side hinged doors have a 90 degree bend at the top and rivets along the top. The top hinged doors have rivets on the outside into the door frame. Inspect for missed rivets! Punch the rivets into the frame after drilling the heads off.
  4. I used a sharp utility knife to cut as far through the double sided rubber tape that holds the sheet to the door frame. Start at one corner, and pry up and cut. Took me about 15 minutes or so for each door. I used an old steak knife to cut the last bit of that rubber tape that was too far in for my utility knife.
  5. Once the old skins are off, you need to layout and cut your new skins. I used a Ryobi 18 volt circular saw (5 1/2") with an aluminum blade I got on Amazon. Easy cutting overall. Use a fine file to clean up any burrs on the door where you cut.
  6. Find someone with a sheet metal brake to bend your bottom angle, and the top 90s as needed. Again having friends if useful! Otherwise you can just find a sheet metal shop and pay them to bend it for you. (Worse case: have them cut and bend, but you'll pay for that.)
OK, next message: painting and rebuilding doors!
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Old 10-17-2019, 05:20 PM   #14
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Ok, we've de-skinned our doors, cut and bent new skins. Painting is next!

I painted myself. I didn't want to, I'm not that good with clear coat, but I had time constraints that made it impossible to farm the job out. And my paint guy got sick too.

Masking was interesting. The two rear doors and the fender were just dark gray. Easy.

The wet bay door, and the water heater bay door had three colors so it took a bit of work to mask each color. Start with the middle color and mask it. The temporarily mask the smaller of the remaining colors. Spray the unmasked color, and once tape dry temporarily mask it and paint the other temp masked color. Finally remove all masking and mask to paint the middle colors that are between the other two colors. Get the best 1/4" fine-line tape you can. I use a tape from Norton that is fantastic!

Once you have the color basecoat sprayed, then spray the clear. I won't offer any advice except to make it as wet as yuo can without runs. I always seem to spray it too dry and end up having to wet sand and buff. I just don't paint enough to be really good at it.

OK, painted!

Here we go, now we reassemble the doors. I got some 3M VHT 1" wide double sided tape on Amazon. The tape originally used was 3/4" but could not find any. The wider worked just fine, and as it is inside the door you can't see it anyway.

Reassembly:
  1. First clean the frame where the old tape was. You won't make it perfect but do your best. I use a wood chisel to scrape them and that worked very well. Keep a can of WD-40 and spray your chisel and wipe it off as you go.
  2. Next the top of the door had double sided tape but the liner was not removed at the factory. I puzzled over that a lot--why? I figured it out, but it took a while. (Just leave that tape on the door, by the way.)
  3. OK, now put double sided tape on the door frame sides and bottom. Leave the original tape that was never used on the top.
  4. Place the frame down with the skin on top. Adjust for the right overhang on both ends (mine were a 1/4" on the latch side, and the rest on the hing side of the side hinge doors, and even on the top hinge doors.)
  5. Attach the skin at the top of the door.

I'll cover side and top hinges separately:
  1. Top hinged: take the hinge piece, the skin, and the frame. Assemble (without removing the tape backing strip!) and rivet the skin to the door. Next take a spacer (I used a coke can) and prop up the bottom of the door skin (carefully) and remove the tape baking strips for the side and bottom. Remove the prop (the can) and let the skin drop onto the frame. Apply pressure.
  2. Side hinged: similar but as these door skins don't have a top piece, but instead have a 90 degree bend, you rivet the top of the panel to the frame. Then prop up the bottom, and remove the double sided tape backing strip for the sides and bottom, remove the prop and drop the panel down on the tape/frame. Press to help stick.
Finally once the doors are done, you just reinstall them.

I had trouble with one door (rear most) and had to shim it to make the door next to it align with the proper gap. I actually had to move it over almost a 1/4" and that may have been either the hinge was bent, or I got the skin off by a tiny bit.

Costs:

I spent about $500 for paint/supplies, $200 for aluminum, $30 for the tape, and perhaps another $100 for misc supplies. I way over bought on paint! I should have gotten a pint of each color instead of quarts, but that's life--I didn't know how much I'd need. That's life. I basically paid for the entire job with what a single used door would have cost me. I still have to buff the clear (no time, we hit the road in two weeks and have several other projects left) but overall a success.

I will say that the insurance paid all and then some.
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