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Old 05-20-2014, 06:08 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by Retd_ontheRd View Post
If you do decide to go for a trailer, keep in mind the curb weight of the Escape (~3600 lbs) because some light car hauler models are rated for less weight. However, you should have no issues with the total weight (car@3600 lbs + trailer@1000-1500 lbs = ~4600-5100 lbs) since your coach, like mine, should be rated for towing 10,000 lbs. You won't even feel the trailer back there.

BTW, I've noticed that driving the car up on the trailer and tying it down takes me about the same amount of time as most people take to hook up the tow bar and set up the braking system and lights on a flat-towed toad.

You've got yourself a nice rig. Good luck!
I have been studying the Triple Crown website, which style of trailer did you go with? Your pic shows something installed on the front, like something maybe to protect the toad? Am I correct?

Silly question (I think), can you unload/load the toad without the trailer being hooked up to your rig?

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Old 05-20-2014, 02:01 PM   #30
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Join Date: Jun 2012
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Enjoy your new coach, it looks really nice.

For whatever its worth - take your time to do your PDI. Regardless of condition there will be things that need fixing.

Prior to paying for it in full, arrange with the dealer a guaranteed "slot" for service within a defines time period after the sale. Nothing worse that fighting to get a appoinment to recitfy faults after your shakedown trip.

Travel Safe.


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Old 05-20-2014, 02:24 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by Reelgator View Post
I have been studying the Triple Crown website, which style of trailer did you go with? Your pic shows something installed on the front, like something maybe to protect the toad? Am I correct?

Silly question (I think), can you unload/load the toad without the trailer being hooked up to your rig?
I bought my trailer from a dealer in Canada who imports them directly from Triple Crown in Florida. I'm not sure if they make this model just for him because I can't find my model of trailer on the Triple Crown website. My model has the 18' open deck (runners on both sides and open in the middle) with brakes on only one axle (limits Gross Weight to 5500 lbs) and two "slide out" ramps at the rear.

Here's a series of links to light car hauler trailers that are like mine (including a Triple Crown):

- This one is identical to mine except 16' vs 18' (made by Triple Crown, $2100 if picked up in Florida)
- Same design but both axles have brakes (made by Currahee Trailers, has higher gross weight (7000 lbs))
- Another dealer, seems to be same trailer as above, also made by Currahee
- Another dealer, again made by Currahee Trailer
- Slightly different designs, although picture of identical design is also at bottom left of page.

After a lot of research I went for a steel trailer, but if you want to spend your whole RV'ing budget in one place you could go for an aluminum trailer

In answer to your questions:

Quote from my previous post: "I also set up my bike rack at the front of the trailer (see picture) and, with the bike cover, it acts just like the "rock screens" that some people put in front of their toad." So what you see in the picture in my previous post is the bicycle rack and cover.

I have only driven the car up on the trailer once without the trailer being hooked up. Even with solid wheel chocks and the tail of the trailer solidly supported it was too wobbly for my liking, so I always hook the trailer up first, then load the car, and I always put jack stands under the tail of the trailer to reduce the torquing on the frame when I drive the car up the ramps.

Hope this helps.

Jacques & Karen
2006 Safari Cheetah 40PBQ, 350 HP Cat C7, Roadmaster RR4R, Allison 3000MH
2007 Subaru Forester on a light car hauler
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