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Old 06-17-2019, 09:01 PM   #15
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Overheating class A Diesel Pusher

☝️What he said.
My 98 Cummins 6TCA 8.3L (325hp) is fully mechanical with a belt driven fan.
It does it’s best at just under 20psi (19.5) of boost and turning at 2200rpms.
Also, watch the boost and exhaust temp gauges. They will help you find your “sweet spot” when climbing.
High boost will increase the exhaust temp. Engine temp will rise with high exhaust temp. If exhaust temp goes up too much - let off the gas a bit, lower the boost, and let it come down.
Be willing to downshift and loose speed when climbing to control the engine temp.
I have learned to be more aggressive with my downshifting when climbing, and in return, I climb better, cooler and have actually improved my mileage.
BTW, the coach is 42’ long and we toad 4 down.
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Old 06-18-2019, 06:33 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BeenThereB4 View Post
Sometimes it is necessary to "burp" cooling system to be certain any air bubbles are purged and eliminated (once components have been replaced/reinstalled) you can find info on doing that procedure by google search if needed.. This could be very important because air pockets can prevent your system from cooling adequately, I have seen it happen. . The net result from that being that the coolant level in radiator could actually be low, although it could appear correct with rad. cap removed as fully warmed up engine idles.. Coolant levels below a certain point will show up for sure when you're climbing an upgrade out on the road.. keep an eye on that temp gauge..
Then I d double check (cooling system related) electrical connectors are clean and tight for connectivity, basically a "double check" that all is in good order, nothing overlooked during reassembly after your recent Radiator swap. make sure your cooling fan is getting a good ground and such.
If electrical cooling fan is not consistently kicking on when the sending unit calls upon it to run, this could indicate poor connectivity or a bad sending unit, for example..
I see you mentioned very low miles on your engine, but I'm wondering how many miles total on the vehicle, and are the cooling system components now in use all original to the vehicle ? (cooling fans, sending unit, thermostat, basically everything except the new radiator)
Making certain the coolant is filled to proper level with proper coolant type, and definitely no air pockets (as above) give it a good road test, and see what happens.
If your overheating situation is still there, just normal troubleshooting sequence should lead you to the cause and solution.. Heck, I even have seen one situation where they put a thermostat in backwards.. Took em the longest time to figure that one out, because nobody was expecting that.. (LOL)
Let us know what you found out, we might learn something new (thanks)
That engine has an automatic system that clears air trapped in the coolant. It constantly circulates coolant from the top of the engine to the expansion tank and back into the radiator. Unless something is drastically wrong, there is no way to have air trapped in the system.
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Old 06-18-2019, 06:34 AM   #17
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Not to highjack but on the same line.....

With a ISL 400 Cummins ours runs about 180-190 or so. No markings on the gauge (but it is below 200(, what is the normal temp running on flat land?
It should have a 180 degree thermostat.
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Old 06-18-2019, 07:44 AM   #18
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Could be a defective thermostat. Easy enough to test one.

ISL 400 temps on mine. 180-205. Watch transmission temps when idling or holding in traffic. I sometimes shift to neutral. The transmission temps drop quickly back to normal.

I keep mine wound up when climbing. If you put your foot to the floor on hills it should shift down for you but if not, just shift it yourself.
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Old 06-18-2019, 10:12 AM   #19
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I am curious how you know what temperature you are running, I have a 2007 Ambassador and the Temp. gauge only has marks on it, no actual numbers?
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Old 06-18-2019, 01:36 PM   #20
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I am curious how you know what temperature you are running, I have a 2007 Ambassador and the Temp. gauge only has marks on it, no actual numbers?
There are lots of systems out there that will give you an exact reading, silverleaf and ScanguageD are two. I use the scangauge and it gives me a digital read out. Mine usually falls between 179 and 184.
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Old 06-18-2019, 01:55 PM   #21
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I would install a new coolant temperature sending unit, if it is giving the ECM a bad high temp reading it will derate the engine or shut it down. The above post about a Scan Guage D is a good one..........I have one and it is a good back up to check things.
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Old 06-19-2019, 10:55 AM   #22
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Mine is marked 100,150,200,250 and there are marks in between the numbers also. It is very easy to know what temp it is running. Thanks.
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