Power Level lights/alarm going off while driving

[MotionGrantd]

We are traveling and the keypad for the Power Gear leveling system is lighting up like a Christmas tree. All lights are flashing and the alarm is beeping. It did this a few times and went off after a few seconds, but the last time it stayed on. We are now parked for the night and the leveling system worked fine. My onboard manual doesn't have anything about this and I couldn't reach Power Gear.

Anybody know what's going on and whether it requires immediate attention. If not, I suppose I could keep driving to my final destination with the keypad sounding off.

Thanks,
Brian

[Our Time]

That is normally a sign the fluid is low. With the jacks retracted, check the fluid level.

[nodine]

Quote:

Originally Posted by MotionGrantd We are traveling and the keypad for the Power Gear leveling system is lighting up like a Christmas tree. All lights are flashing and the alarm is beeping. It did this a few times and went off after a few seconds, but the last time it stayed on. We are now parked for the night and the leveling system worked fine. My onboard manual doesn't have anything about this and I couldn't reach Power Gear. Anybody know what's going on and whether it requires immediate attention. If not, I suppose I could keep driving to my final destination with the keypad sounding off. Thanks, Brian

Our Time has described the usual cause of what you are experiencing. As he points out you must check the fluid level with the jacks retracted. There is a sensor in the tank that measures the fluid level. If the jacks are down the fluid level will be low because the fluid is out in the jack pistons. The system thinks the jacks are down if the sensor does not detect the fluid and thus the alarm because the air brakes are off and the transmission in gear. You will get the same alarm if you leave the jacks down and release the brake or place the transmission in gear. The fluid level may be high enough that the alarm only goes off when the fluid moves off level on a hill or curve.

Bob

[Buford B]

Also, check the tank for a crack at the stepdown neck. It is a "common" problem with several posts relating to the issue ,repair or prevention.

[MotionGrantd]

Checked the fluid and it had 1" showing on the dipstick. We also have fluid leaking at the neck you mentioned.

[The Danes Are Coming]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Our Time That is normally a sign the fluid is low. With the jacks retracted, check the fluid level.

We have experienced the alarm go off like described on several occations. Every time was due to low level of hydraulic fluid.

[wa8yxm]

I too have had that same issue.. epically when it is cold out. Make sure you check the fluid in the morning when the rig is sitting and has been for a while.

Make sure the jacks are FULLY retracted, visually verify this on all jacks.

In the end of the tank, near the filler neck, there is a screw.. The proper measureing method is to remove the screw, add the specificed fluid till it drips out the screw hole and replace the screw, Now wipe off the dip stick and screw it in place, unscrew it and using any "Marker" type tool (Vibrating engraver like you use to etch your Driver's license state/number into things or a dremel or any other good "Scratch" tool) mark the fluid level on the dip stick.

now it's easier to do it in the future.

Now... if all else falis, once you verify VISUALLY the jacks are up, there is a pair of wires coming off the top of the tank to a connector.. you can "Break" the connection, it might slience it (or might not) I forget which. But only do this if you are SURE the jacks are up and have VISUALLY verified that they are up. All 4 jacks.

Next: If the jacks are NOT fully retracted (A common issue with power gear)

Follow the lubrication instructions in the owner's manual.

Exception: On my rear jacks, (For some reason just the rear) there is a kind of a "Ring" at the bottom of the outer piston housing (Have same ring on the front but) on the rear jacks there is a ZERK fitting in this ring, A single stroke of white litihum works quite well in this zerk. About 2x a year.

[MotionGrantd]

We definately have a crack in the lower part of the reservoir where it has a neck that connects to the valves. The reservoir has no support, so the road vibration has caused a small crack. Above it was mentioned that it was common for the reservoirs to spring a leak. Is there a way to repair it with something like a gas tank putty or epoxy, or is replacement the better option.

Thanks again for all the tips.

[nodine]

Quote:

Originally Posted by MotionGrantd We definately have a crack in the lower part of the reservoir where it has a neck that connects to the valves. The reservoir has no support, so the road vibration has caused a small crack. Above it was mentioned that it was common for the reservoirs to spring a leak. Is there a way to repair it with something like a gas tank putty or epoxy, or is replacement the better option. Thanks again for all the tips.

You might want to read this old thread.
Power Gear Tank Support

Bob

[Buford B]

A new tank is several hundred, if you are going to do it yourself then the best way is to drain, remove ,weld, fabricate a support and reinstall. The support you make depends on where it is mounted, what is available nearby and what you can do. Mine is mounted in front near the genset with nothing nearby but air, so I made a support that used the two pump mounting bolts. If you look closly you can see where I welded the neck.

[MotionGrantd]

On my final trip home, I was going through one quart of tranny fluid every hundred miles before the lights and alarm would sound off, but I managed to get back home.

After emailing back and forth with Power Gear, I got the impression that it was going to be quite an ordeal to get a new tank. Apparently, some versions of the tank were discontinued, some versions were now plastic, some versions require a complete retrofit, etc. And the biggest concern was that the cause of the leak, no tank support, would not be corrected.

Therefore, I removed the tank and had a buddy weld up the connection between the tank and the smaller neck. I also placed a piece of 1/8" steel between the frame members for the tank to rest on and locked the tank down with strapping. I used rubber mounts to give the tank and frame some room to move and flex, but not much. The total repair was very cheap and the new weld will be much stronger than what came with the tank.