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Old 06-09-2015, 03:45 PM   #1
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Rear bedroom duo therm shows 75 amp draw

Question of the day,

I have a question, that is probably simple to some of you electrical geniuses out there, but complex for my simple brain.

My front AC/Heat pump works fine (both are Duo Therm) and draws a good 15 amps as shown on the main electrical panel in the hallway, but the rear AC/Heat pump will show up to 75 amps, only when the condenser tries to kick in after the fan has been running for a few minutes. Obviously, this is way too many amps, and the system shuts it down every time it tries to run. The blower fan continues to run, though.

However, not being as smart as some of you older and more experienced people out there, what is causing this? Poor capacitor, clogged condensor fins? I am hoping to problem solve this myself, but the only thing I have ever done is clean the inside ac foam filter and remove a wasp nest from inside the shroud.

Thanks for any help, as usual

Guy, hot in the upper 49
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Old 06-09-2015, 04:38 PM   #2
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If that AC unit was drawing 75 amps it would have popped the circuit breaker. You should check that reading again.
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Old 06-09-2015, 08:08 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Canter View Post
If that AC unit was drawing 75 amps it would have popped the circuit breaker. You should check that reading again.
Mike,

Always happy to backup my claim...only the video that accompanies this post only shows the Generator on in the Magnum Control Panel going up to 65 amps, not 75. It did touch 75 earlier in the day, but I couldn't replicate it tonight.

It doesn't stay very long at the high amperage, which leads me to believe, like you said, that it is not actually drawing that amount of amps (which WOULD trigger a breaker alert) but rather is misinforming the panel as to exactly what is going on. I have downloaded a 126 page Duo Therm service manual, which I intend to start working on tomorrow am.

My question could be just this: has anyone else had this strange situation showing a faulty reading when running a roof air on their Magnum panel, without a breaker tripping?

Everything else works fine and I have had little problems with the Magnum setup
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Old 06-09-2015, 10:59 PM   #4
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If your AC is drawing high amps, it is most likely going to be because the compressor start capacitor is bad or the compressor itself is dragging internally. The capacitor is pretty easy to replace. Fixing (replacing) a dragging compressor is more difficult, and probably not worth it on an older unit.
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Old 06-10-2015, 07:21 AM   #5
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It is normal for the AC unit to draw higher amps when starting both the blower fan and the compressor.

I agree with rmcb that it could be the starting capacitor, this is an easy and relatively cheap fix. You can get a hard start capacitor from a number of sources, I bought one off EBAY last year for ~$15. I would try that first. You need the make/model of the AC unit to buy the correct capacitor.

If that doesn't work then chances are your compressor is bad and this is not cost effective to fix
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Old 06-10-2015, 08:37 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chef Guy View Post
My question could be just this: has anyone else had this strange situation showing a faulty reading when running a roof air on their Magnum panel, without a breaker tripping?
No. My Intellitec EMS panel has been stable an reliable. (Magnum is the inverter/charger, and is a separate panel with an LCD readout and a row of buttons. It's probably above the Intellitec panel.)

I would agree with mcb that it's probably the compressor on your AC unit (hopefully the start capacitor.) I'll bet you really are drawing that amount of current, and the overload inside the compressor is tripping which is what stops the current from flowing.

If you are drawing 65 to 75 amps, that would trip the circuit breakers (50 amp main, 20 amp branch circuit, and/or 35 amp generator) if it stayed that way long enough. Circuit breakers work on heat: there is a small resistance element that heats up as the current goes up, and if it gets too hot it will trip the breaker. It can take time for the element to heat up. If the current is just a little over the threshold, it can take minutes to trip, if a lot over (like 75 amps on a 20 amp breaker) it can take a few seconds. The breaker will only trip immediately if it is a dead short (hundreds of amps) because there is also an electomagnet that will immediately trip the circuit if the current is way too much, so that damage isn't done while the breaker's thermal element is heating. (Note that this is talking in generalities, and some breakers may behave differently -- the gist is that breakers don't necessarily trip immediately, and this is normal.)

You're getting a surge of power, but the compressor's safety circuit is cutting off the flow before the breakers have a chance to trip. I would guess everything is working properly except for that air conditioner unit.
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Old 06-10-2015, 11:50 AM   #7
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Check start capacitor and run capacitor. If they are good you need a new unit. I have replaced start on two units and run on one.
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Old 06-10-2015, 12:26 PM   #8
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Check start capacitor and run capacitor. If they are good you need a new unit. I have replaced start on two units and run on one.

Yep..same here. Front ac start capacitor went bad. Current draw on ems showed about 50 amps before it kicked out for a recycle try a few minutes later. The tech replaced that capacitor and back to normal. However I do find myself listening for that deep hum to continue every time it starts now.
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Old 06-10-2015, 04:26 PM   #9
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Thanks for the replies....looks like I will be testing the 2 capacitors up there once it cools down here.

I tried Googling the Duo Therm capacitors and only 1 shows up. Guess I will be calling Dometic for a part number...it is not even listed in their parts list for the unit.

Will let you know what I find out....
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Old 06-26-2015, 05:36 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmcb View Post
If your AC is drawing high amps, it is most likely going to be because the compressor start capacitor is bad or the compressor itself is dragging internally. The capacitor is pretty easy to replace. Fixing (replacing) a dragging compressor is more difficult, and probably not worth it on an older unit.
Just a quick note to thank you, Roy and Debbie, for your help troubleshooting this pesky issue. It did turn out to be the start capacitor, and I ordered one from Amazon for $26.00. Came last week and I installed her and the rear AC is happy again....not to mention me, the DW and our pet Belgian Tervuren as we swelter in what we consider to be high heat (85 - 90...I know, that's nothing compared to Las Vegas, Phoenix or anyplace around there right now, but for us babies, that is hot!)

I have attached a pic of the Large Run Capacitor sitting on top of the small black start capacitor. I called Dometic for the part number then ordered it online. I was lucky as I did not have to disconnect all of the spaghetti to get to the small black capacitor. It just moved out of the way, with all of the wires still attached!

Thanks again for all your help, as usual.
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