Refrigerator not working

[nutensteve]

We had the recall done on our Norcold 1200 on Wednesday. We just noticed that now the fridge is not working. There is no power going to the fridge. I checked the GFI and reset but still no power. Anyone have any ideas where to start? I can't stand warm wine....lol. I think it was working up until today.
Thanks, Steve

[KIX]

Have you tried it on electric and propane?

[nutensteve]

Kix,
The control panel is dead and I can't switch between electric & propane. Thanks for the response.

[KIX]

OK.........I've got a service manual for the 1200 series. do a google search adn you cna probably find it. There's a go-no go type troubleshooting section that can probably help you

[Rex]

During the recall a sensor was installed in the heat stack and wired to a new small box mounted somewhere on the cooling unit. The sensor will turn off if it detects an over heat condition. In that instance it tells the new box to shut the fridge down.

You must have 12 vdc to the control box on the back of the fridge for it to work on gas or electric. Go outside and check the wiring and new box and see if you have 12 vdc to the new sensor. I suspect you have it to one side and not the other which says it is open. If 12 vdc on both sides, check the same on the new box. If you have 12 vdc from it to the fridge control panel on the back of the fridge, you may have blown a fuse inside it. Remove the cover and check, but disconnect it from the 110 vac supply first.

If it was a blown fuse and it blows again after you restore power, put a new fuse in and see if it only blows when you open one of the lower door. If it does, the wiring to the flapper heater may have shorted.

If you see any yellow power anywhere on the back of the fridge, the coolant unit has ruptured and will have to be replaced.

If all looks OK and it still does not work or you don't detect 12 vdc where it is needed, take your coach to a dealer and have the new devices installed during the recall to see if they are operating correctly.

[nutensteve]

Rex,
Thanks for your response. I'm afraid I'm not very confident diagnosing electrical issues other than resetting breakers and changing fuses. I did just hear from the tech who installed the recall part and he is going to call me back after he checks on what he thinks it might be. I'm hoping he can resolve this issue. I guess I have to haul out the ice chest until I can figure this out.

[nutensteve]

I received another call from the tech that installed the recall parts. He walked me thru bypassing the "fix" and presto the fridge is working. I think that the fix is not necessarily working as planned. The tech is coming back to replace with another part. I'm impressed that he called me back right away on a Saturday. Thanks for all of the responses.

[WeBeGone2]

Quote:

Originally Posted by nutensteve I received another call from the tech that installed the recall parts. He walked me thru bypassing the "fix" and presto the fridge is working. I think that the fix is not necessarily working as planned. The tech is coming back to replace with another part. I'm impressed that he called me back right away on a Saturday. Thanks for all of the responses.

Same thing happened with my first fix. Ended up that the new heat sensor was placed incorrectly, as on the wrong tube. Worked for one day then shut down fridge. The sensor box has a light on it. If it comes on it is indicating that the unit has shut down the fridge. Returned wires to original positions and the fridge worked again. Tech ordered new sensor, did it right this time and no problems.

[azstork]

Here is a thread from Dougrainer, a very helpful RV tech posted on RV net. It appears Norcold has had some problems with their black control boxes installed in the current recall, and Doug describes how to tell if the failure is in the box, or an actual overheat condition - Good Info


The Recall system WILL work. The failure is the black box that the Thermocoupler sends a signal too. According to Norcold, they are in their 3rd to 4th revision on the Black Box that controls the recall parameters. So, The test is simple. WHEN the system Thermocoupler has sensed an overheat condition, it sends the signal to the black controller and shuts OFF the power to the refer and turns the RED LED ON. On the few failures of the recall, the Control Box has failed, but the RED LED is NOT on. Norcold will send out a new revised control box once a qualified Service center has verified the control box failure. IF the RED LED is on, then the system has worked correctly and the Cooling Unit has failed. Recall kits delivered after about Dec, 20 2010 have the updated revised control box. The few I have done this week have had the new updated control box. I took the old apart and found the relay stuck open. Remember, as long as the RED LED is NOT ON, then your Cooling unit is OK and the control box has failed. Which Norcold will replace the control box. Doug

[InflatableBoats4Less]

Now going through same no power situation, Mobile tech is trouble shooting and needs to know where the Refrigerator Fuse is located. I can't find one on the rear bedrooom or driver front fuse panels. We bypassed the new recall Black Box and frig worke fine then power faailed. We checked the fuse in the "Board" on the back of the frig and it was blown. Replaced this and had AC and LP cooling for a few minutes then all went dead. Fuse was OK on the board but no power to frig. IS THERE A FUSE SOMEWHERE ELSE THAT CONTROLS THE FRIG?

[WeBeGone2]

There are TWO fuses on the board attached to the rear of the fridge. One is an automotive style (prongs) and the other is a glass tube style.

[itdave]

When my recall was done the tech shorted a wire to ground and blew a fuse. Finally found the fuse it was a 5 amp one in the front run bay panel. I think it was F64 or F67, MH is in storage so can't check. I did check a PDF for a 06 Knight and it was F70 the label was Refer. Hope this helps

[InflatableBoats4Less]

ITDave and WeBeGone2...Thanks for responding. Both the glass fuse and #64 or #67 fuses tested OK.

I forgot to mention that the frig is working on both gas and electric after shunting 12V from front panel 12V source to back of frig utilizing jumper cables. We've checked everthing on the back of the frig and all OK there and frig is 38 degrees so it's obvious that the cooling unit is working. Today will track undersized 12V suppy wiring and see what we find.

[dykedelta1]

when pushing on button,any response/ Check outside DC wires going to power board ,will have to remove plastic cover.ref is fused also ,did you check and there is fuse on board? John (dykedelta1@aol.com)