Refrigerator Turns Off at times

[Bill2]

Good Morning,
I have a problem that I haven't heard discussed here. I think this is a coencedence but, I had the recall for the upgrade of the heat sensor done on my 1200LRIM Norcold about three weeks ago. Right after that was done the frid just quit working. When it quit, the light on the eyebrow and the light inside the frid continued working but the unit just got cold on the inside fins and the outside got cold. I can restart it by just turning the on-off switch off and then back on and it starts working again. This has happened four times now. The tech that done the recall has talked to Norcold several times and has replaced the eyebrow board and the black board outside on the back of the unit. He also replaced the thermister wiring inside the frid. This seems to happen about every 2-3 days like on schedule. We are at a loss of what to do. I sure hope someone has some good ideas. By the way we also checked for dirty voltage and there was none. I also checked the batteries with two different hydrometers and they check out in real good condition. I shut the power down to the batteries before I checked them. Thanks in advance for any info.
Bill

["007"]

Does it happen both on AC & LP gas operation?
You say they did second recall was the first recall switch removed?
Also the second recall has a block connected on the left hand side tube of fridge, not sure what its for maybe a connecting point only, but was that changed?
If NORCOLD can't fix their recall maybe you should insist on a new refrigerator.

[hoppers4]

I have a different model of Norcold but mine shuts off every couple of days to melt ice on the fins. Rather annoying in hot weather when the refer has enough trouble keeping up.

["007"]

hoppers4, Maybe you need to do whats discussed in this thread.
One fan may make a great difference.

[hoppers4]

Thanks for the heads up 007. I played around with various fan setups on my previous rig without much success. My current rig appears to have the spacing and baffling right but when the outside temps are in the 90s it struggles to stay below 40. It would appear to me as if the absorption fridge doesn't have the cooling power of a compressor fridge. But then again it's only drawing 300 watts so I probably can't expect it to be much better.

[nodine]

Quote:

Originally Posted by hoppers4 Thanks for the heads up 007. I played around with various fan setups on my previous rig without much success. My current rig appears to have the spacing and baffling right but when the outside temps are in the 90s it struggles to stay below 40. It would appear to me as if the absorption fridge doesn't have the cooling power of a compressor fridge. But then again it's only drawing 300 watts so I probably can't expect it to be much better.

One of the many problems with the crappy Norcold 1200 (we also have one) is that the defrost cycle is to long. About every 48 hours the frig goes into defrost mode but stays off to long and your ice cream gets soft. I no longer feel safe from fire with this frig even through I have the SS30 Halon fire extinguisher installed. We already know of at least one motorhome fire that started in the top of the frig so the SS30 did not put it out. As soon as we can the Norcold is coming out and a residential in going in. The new residential units are so efficient that you don't even need to install additional batteries or a second inverter.

Bob

["007"]

I have the same fridge 1200 and my ice creme is hard. A fan will help bring the box temps down.
Freezer's never have a problem.
The defrost cycle should not effect the cooling of box if your thermistor is in the right location on fins.
As far as being crappy my fridge has work for 7 years without a problem just do cleaning every spring.
Only problems I have is Norcold recalls.

[mfire1339]

Noise from an residential fridge would drive me nuts in our rv.



Mike

[Craig P.]

Quote:

Originally Posted by nodine The new residential units are so efficient that you don't even need to install additional batteries or a second inverter.

Are you sure Bob? Most of what I've read on the internet suggests otherwise, which is the only thing that has kept me from converting over. RV manufacturers are including larger inverters and battery banks with their residential refer models. If these weren't needed, one would think that they wouldn't include them, in order to keep their build costs down. Just my observations.

Craig

[Ron Berg]

I fought this problem for a year and a half. Norcold customer NO Service was no help. I think it is the cheep components they use in the circuit board that controls the defrost--a term they can't use. I understand there is another recall out.

["007"]

A RES in a DP should not pose a problem once installed a RES in gas may create a host of problems added weight, fridge, batteries, room for large inverter and boon docking.